Parrafin as a fluching agent.

[alandav123]

Parrafin as a flushing agent.

Hi all, after emptying my engine of the old contaminated oil I have now started to fill it up with every bit of oil I have lying around in half full containers etc as this fill is only acting as a flushing fill, my question is could I add 2.5 litres of parafin into this mix along with all my oils OR would that cause the engine to sieze up?
I intend to run the engine so its not being used as a wash through, it would be used in a running engine.
Incidently the engines an OM352 older mercedes 6 cylinder 120hp.

I heard that parafin is a good flushing agent to so thought it might be useful at this stage as an addative.... I have also added a litle of automatic transmission oil as I heared its a good cleaner too due to the amount of detergents in it.

Regards Alan

 

[sarabande]

while in practice on an older engine at low revs you could use a mixture of oils, the use of paraffin will thin the oil too much, and risk damage to e.g. big ends.

With modern detergent oils, there's no need for a flushing fill, unless you have seen solid deposits of crud , say in the valve 'box'.

Have you thought of a magnet fixed to the sump plug. Quite useful for trapping ferrous bits. ?

 

[alandav123]

Hi there, the engine was dunked in salt water hence the oil changing/ flushing/ parafin idea.

Regards Alan

 

[electrosys]

Paraffin (kerosene) is the principle ingredient in WIMS flushing oil, where 1/2 pint is added to 6 or 7 of old oil before changing it.

A few years back I had a lot of trouble with sticky cam-lifters on a Ford 2L DOHC, and had to flush twice a year to keep it limping along. I used WIMS to begin with, then - on the advice of a diesel mechanic - used a pint of red diesel instead. It worked slightly better that the WIMS.

I think it would be safe to use a mix of paraffin/ heating oil/ red diesel with engine oil in the ratio of not more than 50/50 for a short time (20 mins or so) providing you don't put any load on the engine.

I suggest you mix-up the flushing oil beforehand, and use your own judgement about acceptable viscosity. You'll also need to change filters with each oil change (but you knew that).

Then ...

It just occurred to me that you won't be losing anything as a result of the flushing operation (except for a couple of filters) - for if you allow it to stand and filter off the flushing oil concotion, you should be able to burn it later as fuel - presumably well-diluted with DERV.

 

[old_salt]

Paraffin "NOT" a good idea if you intend to run the engine.
It has no or little lubricating properties.
Get yourself some proper flushing oil it will contain the correct solvents to remove the contaminated deposits also an inhibiting oil may do more good to kill the salt water if it has increased into the oil.

 

[pampas]

Deisel at 50% to oil is as good as anything, or get hold of Forte Engine flush (About£10 a bottle) is fantastic at cleaning out the galleries and sump.

 

[old_salt]

Bog standard Paraffin and kerosene or Gas oil are two different things.
By Paraffin it is usually the stuff you put in an old valor type heater.
Jet engines run on aviation kerosene and it is a far cry from Paraffin they would seize up the fuel pump in seconds if they did.
The nearest you can get easily is the stuff sold in Garages for lighting barbeque's or them garden lanterns on a stick.

 

[maby]

I guess a small amount added as a solvent would probably be OK, but I don't think 2.5 litres would be very wise - don't forget it is quite inflammable and volatile - any fumes could be quite explosive.

 

[electrosys]

Paraffin "NOT" a good idea if you intend to run the engine.
It has no or little lubricating properties.
Get yourself some proper flushing oil ...

Open a can of Wynnes 'proper' Flushing Oil and sniff it - then pour some out (when you'll find it has the consistency of water) - and then tell me it's not mostly paraffin - or something very, very similar.

 

[Lakesailor]

There you go 50-75% kerosine

 

[NUTMEG]

As always...

... I stand to be corrected. But many years ago when serving time as an apprentice agricultural engineer (City and Guilds 015 and 030) we were taught that flushing oil was never a good idea. Removing lubricating film from bearing surfaces being a big no no. My old gaffer insisted that a few oil changes with cheap oil and filter changes was the way to go before filling with recommended oil.

If an engine was that badly contaminated then the only real solution was a bench strip down, clean and rebuild.

Just my tuppence worth.

 

[Talulah]

I used to use Wynnes Engine flush but at £5 a go I now use a litre of diesel.

 

[Alfie168]

... I stand to be corrected. But many years ago when serving time as an apprentice agricultural engineer (City and Guilds 015 and 030) we were taught that flushing oil was never a good idea. Removing lubricating film from bearing surfaces being a big no no. My old gaffer insisted that a few oil changes with cheap oil and filter changes was the way to go before filling with recommended oil.

If an engine was that badly contaminated then the only real solution was a bench strip down, clean and rebuild.

Just my tuppence worth.

So I am not the only one who regards flushing oil as a contaminant in its own right. The cheap oil and replacement filter route is the 'eat more fruit and veg' route, whereas flushing oil is the "Syrup of Figs" route to cleaning the engine.

A lot of the black stuff inside an engine is well stuck on and does no harm. Disturb it with kerosene and its winging its way round tiny oilways in lumps big enough to block big or little end lubrication.

Some modern engines..like the aforementioned Ford, do require un-gumming with kerosene based product, but if the engine is otherwise running OK I'd go with Sophie on this one. Cheap oil and filter change, followed up by proper oil and second filter.

Just my tuppence worth as well

Tim

 

[alandav123]

Hi all, update.

I filled her with all the half empty oil containers I had and then bought enough to top her up, also stuck in a litre of auto transmission fluid and a litre of parafin. Ran her for about 30 mins and she sounded smooth.

I am going down today to run her up again to warm the oil, pump it all out and go up to Dundee to get another load to re fill her finally. I am still not sure if its the engine I think it is yet but will take some high res pics today and post. This will allow me to get another oil filter as I do not know which one to get. Some say its an OM352 and others say its a maybe.

Also up in Dundee today will hand in starter and alternator for a refurb then have a day off from it methinks, its been full on every day since she filled up and nearly sank.

Regards Alan