Painting the non non-slip parts of the deck

Kelpie

Kelpie

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My refurb is now underway with most of the deck fittings removed. Still to make the final decision on whether the Treadmaster is staying on or not. I'll likely remove it in the worst places but try to keep the biggest bits in place.
Anyway, due to the appearance of the deck/coachroof, I'll be painting both the non-slip areas and the bits in between. I've used white Toplac for this in the past, which was pretty good, but was just wondering if there are any other products to consider? Due to the wear and tear involved, 2 pack is certainly tempting, but I've never used it before.
The total area involved is pretty small, but will be fiddly and require a lot of masking. I guess I should paint the non-non-slip bits first, then mask that up and paint the non-slip areas?
 
Kelpie said:
My refurb is now underway with most of the deck fittings removed. Still to make the final decision on whether the Treadmaster is staying on or not. I'll likely remove it in the worst places but try to keep the biggest bits in place.
Anyway, due to the appearance of the deck/coachroof, I'll be painting both the non-slip areas and the bits in between. I've used white Toplac for this in the past, which was pretty good, but was just wondering if there are any other products to consider? Due to the wear and tear involved, 2 pack is certainly tempting, but I've never used it before.
The total area involved is pretty small, but will be fiddly and require a lot of masking. I guess I should paint the non-non-slip bits first, then mask that up and paint the non-slip areas?
Click to expand...
Another member did this blog

http://www.albinballad.co.uk/how-tos/paint-deck-outside-winter/

it might help.
 
I removed my treadmaster this summer and painted with Kiwigrip.
Single part, easy to apply using a foam roller. I found the roller they recommend was too course and took quite a time to dry under the 'peaks'.
With the foam roller, I could overcoat after half an hour.
I used cream colour, which I think was a mistake as dirt and bird muck shows. Next time I overcoat I will use the sand / cream colour but add a brown pigment.
If you do a forum search for Kiwigrip I posted some pics from when I did mine.
 
hi, when I had my Westerley I had to renew the anti-slip paint, a couple of ladies who had a very nice, newish Westerley 33 suggested that I use B&Q textured masonry paint (other brands available). Absolutely brilliant, looked good, lasted longer than the original, much easier to apply and very much cheaper! However, the trick is that you need to "stipple" it on with a brush, any reasonable paintbrush will do. Also, use electrical tape for masking. I don't need it on my present boat but still use it to paint the inside of my grp dinghy, which is abused and normally contains a certain amount of water. It still last for many seasons.
 
Sandy said:
Another member did this blog

http://www.albinballad.co.uk/how-tos/paint-deck-outside-winter/

it might help.
Click to expand...

Wow, that is a fantastic write up! I've read several of Mark's articles in PBO, very good of him to go to the bother of documenting everything.
My own plans are pretty similar except I have the mast down, which should make it easier, and a much lower tent, which is good for weather resistance but not so easy to work under. I also have the complication of already having Treadmaster over most of the deck.

Current thinking is to paint the 'slick' areas of deck in 2 pack white, and overpaint the Treadmaster with something more economical like garage floor paint. I'm removing some of the worst sections of Treadmaster and will repaint these areas with textured deck paint (or maybe just the garage floor paint but with non slip granules added).

I wasn't planning on the epoxy primer coat.... but Mark's blog post is making me think again...
 
LadyInBed said:
I removed my treadmaster this summer and painted with Kiwigrip.
Single part, easy to apply using a foam roller. I found the roller they recommend was too course and took quite a time to dry under the 'peaks'.
With the foam roller, I could overcoat after half an hour.
I used cream colour, which I think was a mistake as dirt and bird muck shows. Next time I overcoat I will use the sand / cream colour but add a brown pigment.
If you do a forum search for Kiwigrip I posted some pics from when I did mine.
Click to expand...

There seems to be a dozen different ways of dealing with the non slip areas of deck: Treadmaster, fake teak, Kiwigrip, Gripelast (anyone used that yet??), masonry paint, ordinary paint with granules/sand/sugar...

The question I'm actually asking is what to do with the areas between the non-slip, including the coachroof sides, around each deck fitting, etc.

Btw when it comes to the non-slip areas, I am quite tempted to use Kiwigrip but only if I remove all the Treadmaster, and I just don't know if I can stomach a job that size. We may be looking to change boats in the future so I need to draw a line on how much time/money I can justify spending on this.
 
hi, sorry I didn't read the question properly, I see there are two "non's", it was the mention of the non-slip that set me off. I take it that you just want to paint the deck and coachroof. If it's GRP then personally I would try cutting, compounding and polishing first. It would be unusual if you couldn't restore the gelcoat back to respectability, especially if it's a relatively small area.
 
pawl said:
hi, sorry I didn't read the question properly, I see there are two "non's", it was the mention of the non-slip that set me off. I take it that you just want to paint the deck and coachroof. If it's GRP then personally I would try cutting, compounding and polishing first. It would be unusual if you couldn't restore the gelcoat back to respectability, especially if it's a relatively small area.
Click to expand...

The boat is 48 years old and has had various alterations to the deck gear over the year, so they're are plenty of old filled holes and other blemishes. I've currently got all of the deck fittings off as part of a big refurb so it seems like a good time to bite the bullet and paint the lot.
 
Kelpie said:
The boat is 48 years old and has had various alterations to the deck gear over the year, so they're are plenty of old filled holes and other blemishes. I've currently got all of the deck fittings off as part of a big refurb so it seems like a good time to bite the bullet and paint the lot.
Click to expand...

I'm in much the same position; I am thinking that a white or cream two pack will be the way to go. Basically these are all the bits that, in a wooden boat, would be varnished teak - the coamings, the "covering boards" and the bulwarks, and I think they should stand out well from the non-slip areas.
 
Kelpie said:
I wasn't planning on the epoxy primer coat.... but Mark's blog post is making me think again...
Click to expand...
I have very shallow micro cracks over much of the deck, apparently down to the gelcoat mix when made, and am thinking about doing something at sometime in the future. Mark's blog gives a lot for thought hence I bookmarked it.
 
I recently did a similar job. My treadmaster was discoloured and damaged in patches. I cut out the damaged areas to a regular shape. Cut new patches from new treadmaster to that shape and stuck them down with exterior grade extra strength contact adhesive and painted with 2 coats of Toplac non slip deck paint. Took a weekend and the result is a massive improvement but not perfect. The boat looks much newer and better cared for but the patches stand higher than the worn original treadmaster so I am going to have to sand them down and repaint. Total cost about £120 for a 28 foot boat.

The only hard part was removing the treadmaster to form the regular shapes. I would hate to have to remove treadmaster from the whole boat, it would take weeks and is a very dull job. I intended my work to be a quick fix for a season or two but I suspect that I will continue to bodge and make do for as long as I can. I think that I got 95% of the benefit of a full replacement for less than 5% of the work.
 
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Dutch01527 said:
I recently did a similar job. My treadmaster was discoloured and damaged in patches. I cut out the damaged areas to a regular shape. Cut new patches from new treadmaster to that shape and stuck them down with exterior grade extra strength contact adhesive and painted with 2 coats of Toplac non slip deck paint. Took a weekend and the result is a massive improvement but not perfect. The boat looks much newer and better cared for but the patches stand higher than the worn original treadmaster so I am going to have to sand them down and repaint. Total cost about £120 for a 28 foot boat.

The only hard part was removing the treadmaster to form the regular shapes. I would hate to have to remove treadmaster from the whole boat, it would take weeks and is a very dull job. I intended my work to be a quick fix for a season or two but I suspect that I will continue to bodge and make do for as long as I can. I think that I got 95% of the benefit of a full replacement for less than 5% of the work.
Click to expand...

How did you line up the diamond patterns?
 
Basically I cut a diamond shape in the existing deck with the cut running diagonally between the small diamonds in the treadmaster. I then cut an identical shape in the new treadmaster. Worked a treat with the joins being filled in with paint and almost invisible except for the greater height of the new treadmaster which I had not anticipated and need to address.

Whilst the result would not be appropriate for a newish high value boat or for a perfectionist it is much better and not out of place on my 1984 boat.
 
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