Painting the hull - Novice

[conks01]

Hi,

I own a 19' Sadler Seawych GRP Which is in reasonable condition albeit I've discovered today that what I thought was the gel coat which others had said I could use oxisidation remover and polish out is actually paint.

I apologise if this has been covered elsewhere but I'm new to all this and have questions therefore.

It was explained to me that I should wet & dry sand down the hull and then simply paint over with a 1 system standard exterior gloss paint such as Dulux Weathershield. This doesn't sound right to me?

Looking at chandlery suppliers such as Force 4 I'm struggling to find paints to do the hull.

Is topside paint for the hull or is this for the deck & cockpit areas etc?

Can anyone recommend the best paint system (and manufacturer) and whether sanding down is appropriate, if I need to soap & water clean first, then sand (or other) before applying the gloss coat etc.

How many coats and whether roller applied or brush applied etc ?

All advice gladly received.

Oh, the gel coat underneath is in OK condition but badly faded hence why they're suggesting to paint rather than polish out.

Thanks.

 

[Tobye1]

I'm painting my Seawych.

Jotun paints have been fantastic.

Sanded back. Vinyguard silvergrey x 2. HB Penguard epoxy primer x 3. Hardtop AS on the top of the hull (probably x 4) then wet sand polish. And anti foul below the water.

 

[Tranona]

Although some people do use domestic paints, my view is it is not worth taking the chance when you can buy the proper stuff for very little more, particularly for a boat your size. The easiest finish to use is a single pack such as International Toplac which will go on top of existing paint. Follow the instructions and you will get a good durable finish which does not fade quickly (important of you are using a "dense" colour such as red or blue) and easy to touch up.

The secret to a good finish is in the preparation. The final coat is easy it will take less than an hour. However expect to spend significant time flatting down the existing finish, filling and fairing all the little nicks and imperfections and probably applying an undercoat (Prekote) particularly if you are changing colour.

You will find good information on using their products on the manufacturers websites, or the host of this forum PBO publishes a good booklet on renovating older boats which has an extensive section on painting GRP.

 

[Capt. Clueless]

To get a decent finish, roll it on and "furl" it with a brush as you go along. There are some useful video's on you tube about rolling & furling. I did it on my snapdragon, and was pleased I did.

 

[MoodySabre]

Another vote for Toplac sand it down, get all the dust off. On a warm day we got two coats on my son's 24footer. One us rollered and the other tipped off using the edge of paint pads. The result looked great and still does after a couple of years.

 

[oldharry]

Theres nothing wrong with good quality modern trade paints. They last as well as any marine paints, and in some cases out perform them! The emphasis being on 'quality'. You should avoid diy store rubbish, and go to a trade Outlet.

Do you know what is on there already? If not you can not use two pot paint over single pot. It's a waste of time as it will just come off again.

I have never had Trade Weather shield fail after proper application. Whatever you use though, thorough and careful preparation is essential, otherwise you are wasting your time!

 

[Tam Lin]

Oh, you've opened up a can of worms here! As with all paint finishes, time spent on preparation is the key. How long you spend on it depends on the finish you want to achieve. If you are a "slap it on and go sailing" type then a quick wet and dry to provide a key and a paint of your choice will suffice.
If you want a mirror perfect finish then rub down, undercoat, rub down etc. Until you feel it is right then topcoat. By then the sailing season will have half gone. With all due respect it is a Seawych and unless you want to bring it up to concourse standard, rub it down, paint it, go sailing, simples.
BTW I got a good finish using a four inch gloss roller from Wickes.

 

[SiteSurfer]

Would you thin Toplac or whack it on neat?

 

[fisherman]

I don't know about Toplac, I used Perfection, and am probably stuck with it as some products won't go on top of it.
Perfection can be very good, but prep is the key, no pun intended. Even using the exact same colour you must use an undercoat and they only do white unless you are in the trade, apparently, so you have to mix some colour with it if darker finish.

 

[Appledore]

Have a read of this:

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?311751-Forget-quot-marine-enamels-

 

[Tam Lin]

Would you thin Toplac or whack it on neat?

I used it neat as it seems thin enough already.

 

[Tranona]

Would you thin Toplac or whack it on neat?

No need to thin. Just follow the instructions. actually applying according to the instructions is easy. Preparation is the key to a good finish.

 

[SiteSurfer]

Have a read of this:

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?311751-Forget-quot-marine-enamels-

Wow, thanks!

 

[PCUK]

Dulux is far easier to apply than Toplac which I found to be overpriced rubbish. Dulux will last just as long at a fraction of the price. This from previous experience of both.
For a proper job you will need to use two pack though.

 

[Minchsailor]

Preparation, preparation, preparation.

Sand down with progressively finer grades of wet and dry, using a squirt of washing up liquid in the water. Start with 180 grade, then 240 - 320 - 400.

2 pack is good if the application conditions are perfect - temperature and humidity. You are unlikely to get these in the average boatyard in the average spring.

Go for a good gloss; Weathershield is probably as good as it gets.

1 coat undercoat. Very light sanding with fine finishing paper.

1 coat gloss, light sand with wet and dry 400 grit.

Final coat of gloss.

Go sailing.

 

[fisherman]

I suppose if you have a ferro boat you use sandtex?

 

[ghostlymoron]

My recollection of Toplac is that it's quite thin anyway so thinning could cause the 'curtains' effect. I concur with the importance of preparation. It took me about a week to prep my 19 footer and about an hour to apply the top coat.

Would you thin Toplac or whack it on neat?

 

[fisherman]

I was once painting an aluminium caravan, using Woolworth's own brand paint which had a very good review from Which magazine. (Cover Plus, I think). A painter friend came by, gave me a hand, he thinned the topcoat until it was like milk, then we put a coat on every 30 minutes or so, it was a very good finish, no curtains, no brush marks, good as spray.

 

[oldharry]

Textured Sandtex is brilliant as a deck paint - far better to the 'real' stuff. Easier to apply, and stays there for much longer. Its finer grain than the sand additive sold for marine paints, so uch more comfortable to sit and walk on when scantily clad than the sandpaper finish of ordinary non slip.

Once again avoid cheapo DIY store stuff - useless!

If using a highly developed paint like Toplac, dont interfere with the carefully engineered mixture by adding white spirit. It interferes with the carefully adjusted flowing and flashing off qualities of the paint. You wont improve the finish, and it will be much ore difficult to get a really good finish. Modern paints are very highgky developed - including Dulux Weathershield, which i still reckon is the best.

 

[Fantasie 19]

the gel coat underneath is in OK condition but badly faded hence why they're suggesting to paint rather than polish out..

...and just for the alternative view.. once you start painting you're into a cycle, so how faded is the GRP, and how fussy are you about concourse condition....??