Painting GRP

K

Kingston

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www.theamadisproject.co.uk
I've just inherited an antique Laser dinghy (called, rather grandly 'Interceptor'!) from my employer who has spent a long whie trying to get rid of it.

Great news, except that it does look pretty tatty, bright yellow hull and cream decks, with multiple repair wounds. All in all, a rather sorry state.

My plan is to get it home, and try to repaint it. Whilst I have experience painting wooden boats, I have never tried to paint fibreglass. I have seen my Dad try it once on his keelboat, and make a pigs ear of it, so I know where not to turn for help!

Basically, could anyone possibly advise me on the method of doing a good paint job, which tools are needed and which type of paint I need?

Am I right in thinking that I'll need to lightly abrade the hull, wipe with white spirit, and apply a few coats, with more abarasion between each coat? Or am I way off?

Any ideas will be gratefully recieved.

Thanks as always, Paul
 
Take a look at International Yachtpaint's website at http://www.yachtpaint.com/uk/ for details of specialised products and advice. Also check out other paint manufacturers websites for products from competitors.

Some people are satisfied with the results they get with good quality houshold paint but I would imagine that a proper glass fibre primer is still essential.

Remember the finished result will never be any better than the preparation.
 
Forget yacht paint/marine paint.
It is a dinghy, it is going to get bumped, and scratched in, and out of the water.
Get a load of wet 'n dry paper, rub it down, and use a foam roller to apply Front Door Paint, it will look as good, half the price.
 
Thanks for that guys, appreciate it.

I was thinking of going for something like Toplac (or something cheaper!).

But according to the International website

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Neither single-pack nor two-pack enamels can be used for constantly immersed areas, as they will blister and then detach. Ensure your waterline is correct so that the painted enamel surface is kept above water.


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I'm wondering what constitutes as constantly immersed? Would 2 hours twice a week on the water possibly cause the paitn to come away? I hope I dont need to find a waterline and apply antifouling to a b****y laser!

Thanks again.
 
Constantly immersed means that the boat "lives" in the water. Yacht enamels and domestic exterior paints are fine for dinghys.
 
Hello Paul, we don't get many sailing dinghy queries here, but I know a bit about Lasers, great fun boats.

Before painting, check that it doesn't leak! Stand it on end and drain any and all water out of the transom bung. Then, set it level on its trolley. Fill the mast hole with fresh water, right to the deck brim and leave it overnight. If, in the morning, the water level has gone down, you have a leak in the mast hole, very common.

Next, turn it upside down and check carefully the hull deck joint all around. The glued joint can split and water gets inside.

Take a very close look at the daggerboard case, especially the aft end. Groundings can crunch the interior of the case, another source of leaks.

If all okay so far, check for leaks around deck fittings such as cleats, toe straps etc.
Make a strong solution of water and washing up liquid. Paint the solution liberally around all fittings. Then, stick a bicycle pump into the transom bung (wrapped in a rag to make airtight) and pump sloooooowly. Watch for soapy bubbles at the deck fittings, tell tales for leaks.

Note the boat will have a deck breather hole from new, usually underneath the forward toestrap vee fitting.

Get back to me for info on how to repair leaks.

If no leaks, and you still want to paint the boat, forget house or yacht paint: too much weight. Wet sand the hull (lots of elbow grease) with 320 grade wet and dry paper, lots of soapy water for wetness. Dry, then clean with acetone. Then use polyurethane car spray paint gray primer and wetsand again with 600 grade paper. Then clean and acetone and finish with two coats of light grey car gloss polyurethane.

Then go sailing!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Then use polyurethane car spray paint gray primer and wetsand again with 600 grade paper. Then clean and acetone and finish with two coats of light grey car gloss polyurethane.

Then go sailing!

[/ QUOTE ]
I agree with using automotive paint. Acylic is good enough. Fill any holes and smooth, then spray with fiiler/sealer and then spray with top coat colour of your choice. Imagine it as a fibreglass sports car.
My Finn is sprayed to match my tow car. Metallic silver with clear over. Have fun.
 
I've painted a couple of GRP boats but this is a new idea I thought of whilst freshening up the kitchen.
International paints do a Kitchen Door paint which has excellent adhesion and is Teflon based for good resistance to knocks.
It occurred to me it would be excellent for dinghies. They're only in the water a couple of hours at a time and then get bashed as you're recovering them.
I haven't tried it, but feel free to pinch the idea.
 
I've been asking the same around the sailing club as I intend to paint my Macwester 26 dark blue this winter. I was intending to use International two pack but have been warned that it is not easyto apply as it chemically dries evry quickly and is very temperature sensitive during application.

The recommendation has been for careful preparation and Berger gloss. There are a few boats at the club that have been painted with Berger gloss and they look pretty good on it. I think I'll use a good marine paint for boot topping, tough.

I once painted a Landrover with Dulux Weathershield, using a 2'' paint brush and it looked good. Only needed one coat. The roof was Hammerite smooth garage door paint and that was even better.

Maybe I'll use the Hammerite for the decks and cabin sides.
 
As I said, my boat has been hull-painted with front door paint and has been in the water since March. So far no problem, but the actual paint is above the waterline (antifoul below) . I would imagine that, with splashes and boat wake, that most of the paint has had a few hours of water immersion accumulated and it is no worse for wear. As I said earlier, it is such a cheap option, it has to be worth a try.
 
I have used Toplac and brightside from international.Both are OK but scratch easilly and IMHOare no better than household exterior paint.

As to immersion a yachts topsides are immersed for several hours when going to windward so I think a dinghy only immersed for a few hours will be fine.

If you use a two pack marine paint it will be a better job tougher etc but you will still scratch it so is it worth it?
 
[ QUOTE ]
I'm wondering what constitutes as constantly immersed? Would 2 hours twice a week on the water possibly cause the paitn to come away? I hope I dont need to find a waterline and apply antifouling to a b****y laser!

Thanks again.

[/ QUOTE ]

I spoke to International before painting my boat - their recommendation was no longer than 2 weeks continuous on the water. For my boat, on a trailer (or will be sometime) the (very friendly and helpful) International help-line guy said it was fine to use "perfection" on my hull.

Use the roll-and tip method to get a nice even finish on the hull.
 
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