Painting boot top sequence

Lucky Duck

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Assuming a standard self polishing/erodible anti-foul and a hard boot top paint which do you apply first?

Last year we did the boot top last but I wonder if it would be better doing things the other way round as the lower run of masking tape took some of the anti-foul off with it when it was removed.

Normally I don't bother with a boot top and accept the 'green tinge' around the waterline but this weekend I have the privilege of painting the other half's boat.
 
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1. Clean old antifoul and boot top
2. Clean and polish topsides - oxalic acid and wallpaper paste will take that yellow stain off a treat for coppers, or you can pay a fortune for Y10
3. Paint Boot top
4. Antifoul

IMHO, obviously.
 
Pigging backing onto Little Grebe's post, I have a similar issue.
I have just bought a yacht with a Copper Coat bottom.
I am going to change the colour of the hull topsides, i.e. gunwale to water line.
I do not want to remove any Copper Coat - so what do I do at the point my new Epifanes gloss meets the Copper Coat .
Leave a gap? Paint a centimetre over the Copper Coat ?
Help please.
 
Pigging backing onto Little Grebe's post, I have a similar issue.
I have just bought a yacht with a Copper Coat bottom.
I am going to change the colour of the hull topsides, i.e. gunwale to water line.
I do not want to remove any Copper Coat - so what do I do at the point my new Epifanes gloss meets the Copper Coat .
Leave a gap? Paint a centimetre over the Copper Coat ?
Help please.

HRs have a gap between the AF and the boot top, which is enamel, and it looks fine. The thin strip of gel sometimes gets a bit yellow and needs a clean during the season. This wouldn't work quite so well with a boat kept on a mooring, where more fouling would occur and more cleaning necessary.
 
I'd slighty overlap the copper coat if it were me.
Pigging backing onto Little Grebe's post, I have a similar issue.
I have just bought a yacht with a Copper Coat bottom.
I am going to change the colour of the hull topsides, i.e. gunwale to water line.
I do not want to remove any Copper Coat - so what do I do at the point my new Epifanes gloss meets the Copper Coat .
Leave a gap? Paint a centimetre over the Copper Coat ?
Help please.
 
HRs have a gap between the AF and the boot top, which is enamel, and it looks fine. The thin strip of gel sometimes gets a bit yellow and needs a clean during the season. This wouldn't work quite so well with a boat kept on a mooring, where more fouling would occur and more cleaning necessary.

I have something similar on my boat, but the 'boot top'/'go faster stripe' is coloured gel coat rather than enamel.

At the end of the season one can see where the mooring buoy has rubbed against the hard boot top paint on the other half's boat so I suspect it would be worse if we painted eroding anti-foul over the existing boot top 'stripe'.
 
Last year we had a 'roving' bit of masking tape which was held in place while the boot top was painted :)

This was probably my fault as the poor weather in January/February meant we anti-fouled the weekend before the launch was scheduled so wanted to get the bulk of it on ASAP in case the weather deteriorated.
 
One point you do not mention is do you have to scrub the boot topping during the year, ours used to get filthy at times and when scrubbing with a broom you will just remove antifoul used as boot topping and eventually looks messy..

After two years we removed all the old antifoul boot topping, used a grey primer and applied 2 coats of Toplac, lasts ages no problem

View attachment 76206
 
1. Clean old antifoul and boot top
2. Clean not polish topsides - oxalic acid and wallpaper paste will take that yellow stain off a treat for coppers, or you can pay a fortune for Y10
3. Paint Boot top (only masking the top edge).
3a. Polish topsides (Boot top paint won't stick to any over spread of polish)
4. Antifoul (only masking the top edge).

IMHO, obviously.

Just done it.
Forgot. When antifouling start at the bottom to prevent getting blue (or red) hair.
 
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