Painting a Metal Hull & Superstructure on Dutch Cruiser

[Arion]

I have a 1978 dutch steel cruiser moored on a canal. I need to get the entire boat painted. I got a quote from a local yard for £10,000! to get 10 year life epoxy, but can't afford that sort of money. I am looking into doing it myself but need to know the answers to a few questions.
1. When the boat is on hardstanding, how to I paint around the supports? Do I paint in to sections, moving the supports between each session (which means that pressumably since the paint mix and or ambient temp changes imbetween may result in an uneven coat) or is their somekind of secret to painting around the supports?
2. The boat is 3M wide 9M long and 0.90M draft (approx 2.7M airdraft). How do I calulate how much paint I need for the craft?
3. I want a good, clean looking paint system that will last hopefully for 5 years. The boat has a few rust patches which I don't believe to be structural and has had the hard chine hull slightly smoothed with epoxy filler. Which kind of fairing system will remove my old paint and fare my rust patches, but will leave as much of the filler their as possible? Also, what is the best paint system to use? (I do plan to antifoul the hull also)

I would be most greatful for any suggestions or help on this matter

 

[Freebee]

Item 2 most good paint manufacturers suggest how much coverage the paint gives its usually on paint charts or on the side of the tin.

You need to do a bit of research with paint manufactures and select a system that is good for you. get some free paint manufacturers literature read and apply your paint in accordance. if you plan to leave existing sound paint in place you need to know what it was otherwise new paint might not be happy.

Any applied paint coating will only be as good as the substrate, good preparation and strip back of old paint to sound metal/paint is the only way to go otherwise it will just peel off.

 

[PCUK]

Grit blast to appropriate standard or you are wasting your money.
Paint entire bottom with total coats, then move supports and paint those areas separately.
My Hempels epoxy and two pack polyurethane is still in good condition after 21 years.
Do it right and it will last!

 

[stephenmartin]

I did similar to a 20 year old metal boat where the original paint system had failed....and rust was breaking through the hull....

Grit blasting company wanted £1500 to clean the hull but i knew better...once I had found someone to hire me the gear..(£800 deposit £500 actual remainder returned) it took all weekend to strip the hull in about 2inch strips....writing names on the hull to amuse myself...belive me...it is painfully boring...

I had to get one coat of primer on to stop the bare metal rusting....5 weeks later and 4 coats of primer, 4 coats of undercoat, and three coats of top coat (all international) she does look spectacular...some fool convinced me to rub down below the water line and paint red oxide on instead of grit blasting then antifoul which i did but wished i'd stripped the whole lot...

that said it is still a remarkable job....just shows what you can do if you really want a professional and reasonably cheap job

grit blast £500 (Brandon tool hire 0870 514 3391)
lift and block £450
45 ltrs various £450 (i'm in the know)

My boat is 40ft and 10 ft beam...International can work out all the quantities for you

ABout £2k all in with extras and enough left for several beers...but bloody hard work

Now for the superstructure....£180 for 10ltrs of Toplac for the Superstructure and 10ltrs of Danboline bilge paint....I am going to be very busy...this season

PM me for pictures and contacts

Steve