Paint stripping a wooden Folkboat

Capn Pugwash

Capn Pugwash

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Joined
27 Jun 2006
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On Kite - Greece
www.boatbabysitters.com
Anyone know of a decent paint stripper (or method of removing old paint). I am planning to get rid of the blue above the waterline and, depending on state of wood below, varnish it. I have tried some DIY store stuff on a little bit of the hull and it takes ages plus it is quite expensive!
Any assistance gratefully received.
 
Hi,

Have always used a heat gun and a very sharp home-made scraper, resharpened every 15 mins or so... (wear a thick glove too, as the scraper gets hot). Leaves a surface which hardly needs sanding...

Brian.
 
Forget the paint stripper.

Hot air gun and Sandvik scraper. Get plenty of spare blades (they are about £8 each, but worth it)

This is if you are really serious about varnishing.

HOWEVER - if the boat has been stripped back to bare wood before, with a blowtorch, there will be black scorch marks on the wood, and these will be impossible to remove, in practice.

Try a bit and see.

If you are finding scorch marks, resign yourself to painting, rather than varnishing, the topsides, and borrow the yard's gas cylinder and blowtorch. Use an ordinary triangular scaper and work from right to left (if you are right handed - right hand holds scraper, left hand holds blowtorch). Should take you about a morning to get round a Folkboat, this way.

Scraping with a hot air gun takes a lot longer.

You can use old Sandvik blades for paint removal and then go all over with a couple of new blades for a cabinet scraper effect before varnishing.
 
We just stripped the hull and repainted. Well the wife did (best paint stripper I know of).

Electric hot air gun and the flat bladed stripper that you use for steaming off wallpaper works best. As long as the paint has been warmed through and the flat scraper is sharp it comes off easily like this - in sheets rather than little bits.

Then take off the stubborn primer with a two handed 'pull' type of scraper with the tungsten blades. Then sand.

If the wood looks good enough to varnish but still has paint in the grain, then I guess that might be the time to get some chemical paint stripper out, but not for the whole job.

As already mentioned, thick leather gloves are a must for the hot air gun. It sure takes the hairs off the palms of your hands.......... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
I went through a couple of Sandvik blades before I realised it was going to cost a fortune in new blades. I therefore bought many triangular scrapers (might be better for clinker) and used a portable blow torch. I found the heat gun less effective, heavier, and made my hand go tingly from the vibrations. Another tip is to use an angle grinder to sharpen all your scrapers - it is much quicker than using a whetstone.
 
Bits of broken window glass work well although best on smaller pieces like rubbing strakes & coamings. Leaves a fantastic finish on mahogany etc. Blunt, just break a bit off. ps - watch your fingers !
 
Painted boats have often been filled to cover imperfections in the past, (or even originally). It is a major job getting them to a condition which would be suitable for varnishing !
Good luck !
Ken
 
[ QUOTE ]
Forget the paint stripper.

Agree entirely

Scraping with a hot air gun takes a lot longer.



[/ QUOTE ] No it dont. Told you be4 Mirelle /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Needs a different technique, but once mastered its just as quick, and no risk of scorch marks.
 
I have stripped a Folkboat. A ProPrep scraper and a good heat gun. Pay attention so you don't burn your wood. I use the same tools on my cabin sides. You just have to pay attention. Sometimes I don't wear gloves since it reminds me that I'm working with heat. The redness on my hand will heal - a black spot on the coaming won't.
 
[ QUOTE ]

the hairs off the palms of your hands.......... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif


[/ QUOTE ] Most people don't have hairs on the palm of their hands. What's that old wive's tale? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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