P-bracket sealant?

wragges

Well-Known Member
Joined
7 Nov 2005
Messages
145
Location
Nottingham, UK
www.minstercomputers.com
Hi,

I've go a minor leak up the side of the P-bracket in to the cabin. I don't want to remove the entire bracket, prop, etc. as
the p-bracket is glassed-in and bolted to a support underneath the glass.

The bracket only moves slightly in the GRP slot when pushed hard (approx 1mm). I think I can apply a seal of some kind up the gaps from the outside. The question is silicon sealant, resin or what else should I be using?
 
I think you will be very lucky to seal this gap if the P-bracket is moving. Recently I have been advising another forumite on the same subject, he is going through cutless bearings at a high rate due to the misalignment of his P-bracket. With a lever the length of a P-bracket you would be asking a lot of any resin or sealant to hold it steady.

The only real answer is to bite the bullet, cut out the inside of the boat and investigate why the P-bracket is moving. I was amazed to find when I did mine that the P-bracket was attached to two right-angled brackets by two bolts of 4 mm diameter. These had stretched in use, potentially failing in the future by fatigue. Doing the job properly could be a lifesaver, or at least a boat-saver, in the future.
 
The movement and water coming in is telling you that the bond has failed and you are relying on the mechanical fastenings. You may be able to grind away the laminate around the outside of the P bracket and fill with glass/epoxy, provided it is completely dry. Long term, however looks like wise to tackle from the inside.
 
G'day Steve,

As others have indicated movement may well be due to a loss of bonding. Should this be the case, the longer you delay the more grinding and re laying of glass will be required, moisture entering the laminated glass will further and faster under pressure from movement.

It's not a huge job and will not take a lot of time. Remember it must be DRY, warm, clean, and the humidity should be less than 73% for most epoxy resins.

You can avoid a lot of grinding and dust using a sharp chisel and hammer to get the bulk of the material off. Wipe the area with Acetone BEFORE you start grinding and again before you start glassing.

When you have the area fully exposed look for possible causes for the failure, you might need to upgrade the fasteners or the thickness of the lay-up or dimensions of the 'P' bracket cross plate.

Also check your insurance cover.

Avagoodweekend......
 
G'day Steve,

As others have indicated movement may well be due to a loss of bonding. Should this be the case, the longer you delay the more grinding and re laying of glass will be required, moisture entering the laminated glass will further and faster under pressure from movement.

It's not a huge job and will not take a lot of time. Remember it must be DRY, warm, clean, and the humidity should be less than 73% for most epoxy resins.

You can avoid a lot of grinding and dust using a sharp chisel and hammer to get the bulk of the material off. Wipe the area with Acetone BEFORE you start grinding and again before you start glassing.

When you have the area fully exposed look for possible causes for the failure, you might need to upgrade the fasteners or the thickness of the lay-up or dimensions of the 'P' bracket cross plate.

Also check your insurance cover.

Avagoodweekend......
 
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