Overheating Volvo 145A

steve6367

steve6367

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28 Apr 2003
Messages
389
Location
Bournemouth, Dorset, UK
www.ybw.com
Have this 2 of these in a Fairline Sunfury - the Port engine overheats at anything over 2500 rpm.

Have changed the impellor / Manifold / thermostat and had the heat exchanger acid dipped and tested. Also been over the side and checked the intakes on the leg.

Does anyone have anymore ideas? I am not sure what to check next...........
 
are the gauages and senders correct? is it really overheating - or just appearing to. have you tried 1 of those infra red thermometers. I would try that first
 
YOu are approaching this from the view that there is something wrong with the coolinig. COuld it be that that engine is producing more heat than the other due to injection issues? Just a thought....
 
Think they mean the water cooled exhaugst manifold/water ejection elbow, which by the post above, you have already checked - but is your engine fresh water cooled, so there is a heat exchanger i.e. raw water is not circulated around the engine?
 
Not being thick. On this one ...

Click Here

it looks as if there isn't a riser (an extra section between the exhaust and the manifold). It would be between "7" and the exhaust pipe on the second diagram.

Heat gun sounds like a good idea. First thing to do is work out whether its a seawater problem or whether it's the freshwater circuit that is causing the grief.

dv.
 
Thanks - I have tried to check the fresh water - but all I have done is removed thermostate and replaced - while it was out had a look in and cant see any evidence of clogging. How else can I test the fresh water system?
 
Right, in that case (and thanks for the view of the engine, dvinell) the engine could be corroded internaly as its got case iron block and ally head and not everyone runs the correct inhibitor / water / antifreeze mix. Might be worth trying a cooling system flush or, what i have done in the past is add about half a bag of washing soda (NOT CAUSTIC SODA) to the freshwater side and then take it for a good blast (dont go to far incase of other problems) then leave for a week then drain and try the engine again. that should clean out any scale etc. in the engine.

I presume you have tried and tested the raw water feed into the engine, in case its sucking air etc.
 
Since

1) i aint seen the thing
2) dont know the engine
3) i aint a 'qualified' mechanic
4) I have had overheating problems, and the above fixed em
5) The guy would like some help, and some ideas - why not, you never know it might work.
 
My reply wasn't to you directly Leyton. Just a generalisation. The "injection problem" did make me snigger tho!

Got ask yourself a few questions. A the block won't be furred up as its a closed system. Most anti freeze on the market today have antin corrosive addatives in them. If you can find one without in your average car spares place you've found stock thats been hanging about for years and is probably a collectors item!!

I like the way everyone jumps on the cooling system straight away. Theres a number of other things that will effect it. Fuel mixture being one. Too weak an it'll run hot. Ignition timing, too far retarded and it'll run hot.

I notive the exhaust manifold has been changed......why, was it corroded and letting water sit in the exhaust ports of the rear 2 cylinders corroding the valves!!

How much has it been over heating....to the point of "boiling up" or just the needle sittinga little higer than usual.

The raw water flows thru the oil cooler to the manifold, as you quite right;y said, but what does get overl;ooked a hell of a lot in these engines is the fact they tube stack needs rodding every couple of years or so. The have fairly small tubes.

If its running hot at higher revs then I'd not look straight away at the cooling system, which seems to have been replaced anyway!
 
I'm guessing that the option of paying £49.35 per hour (plus travelling time, plus parts, plus sundries) for the local VP dealer to visit is too much to stomach. Hence, you try yourself, get stuck, and ask for advice. The advice isn't professional, but you can take it or leave it, and maybe one random stab will be the one that nails the gremlin.

dv.
 
No I agree. I don't like lining the pockets of the dealers either. It was just a bystanders view.
See above for more of an explanation.
 
[ QUOTE ]


the block won't be furred up as its a closed system. Most anti freeze on the market today have antin corrosive addatives in them. If you can find one without in your average car spares place you've found stock thats been hanging about for years and is probably a collectors item!!



[/ QUOTE ]

This assumes people HAVE put antifreeze in the engine, though - when i got my boat the port engine had no antifreeze in it. and when stripped for a decoke had some fur in there.

ok, there are many other causes of overheating, but if you have replaced all the external things, it must either be a case of no overheating or its internal - like you said

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif (sorry i thought you were having a go at me personaly)
 
I don't have ago at anyone personally....anyone that knows me knows that I'm too laid back for that.

Anyhow, I see this boat is in poole. I could take a look, just drop a PM.
 
Thanks for all your help - all ideas apreciated - I know no one can tell me what the problem is on here. Was just looking for ideas - of which I now have a few. Thanks for the offer too BarryH I may be in touch if I am still struggling at the weekend.
 
Barry

- timing I have checked and ok.
- mixture not sure how to check, but it runs ok......
- manifold was very corroded and yes there is some damage to the number 4 exhaust port from salt water. It passed a compression test ok though so I was hoping the valves had survived........
- each time it gets hot I have stopped and allowed to cool - but it get very very hot - you have to stop and let it run under no load to cool down or I am sure it would boil.

Thanks again for the input.
 
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