Outhaul improvement

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jag22

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Hi, I would like to create a basic outhaul tensioner because what I have at the moment is non-existent. Can anyone advise on a system that would give me some control. Currently the main is tensioned by a tied line to the end of the boom.

I have seen diagrams and examples using two blocks, and the line running back along the boom to a cleat. Is this sort of concept a good idea, or is it better to leave the line hanging down off the end of the boom?

I attach a picture of the current set up that I would like to improve on.

Thanks All.

IMG_0286.jpg
 
I used two sets of Holt double blocks (dinghy sailing type) to get mechanical advantage, a cam cleat to tension up and 6 mm line. Cheap and effective for the Hillyard. I don't think it needs to be too special.
 
Thanks Robin, Where did you place the cam cleat? I mean how far along the boom? How did you fix the 6mm line to the boom before running it thorough the blocks?
 
I don't adjust the outhaul tension whilst underway, so the cam cleat is at the end of the boom positioned so that the line 'naturally'leads from the blocks to the cam cleat. From recollection the 6mm line is fixed to the boom from a pad eye and stop knot

A couple of points - its probably worth getting blocks with swivels and work out how the lines etc work before attaching things to your boom.

I would offer a photo but Hanser's mast is currently down and in any event I'm 200+ miles from the boat.:(

I think the bits cost me about a tenner with one of the blocks coming from the YBW for sale board. Its the sort of stuff you get from boat jumbles. Mind you not too many of those in Bromsgrove.
 
What you propose is similar to what I have (except that the line runs inside the boom). You want the cleat near the gooseneck so you can get at it to slacken off the outhall when running before the wind with the boom let right out
 
diagrams and parts list here...
http://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3910

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Another question on this... What is the best way of attaching the new hardware to the boom? I'm reading alot about riveting / screw tapping?

Is it possible to get self tapping screws for this job?
 
Jag22,

use rivets, it's very easy.

Make sure to use Monel rivets, the convenient but expensive way to buy them is at chandleries; also use zinc chromate 'Duralac' paste, ditto from good chandleries.

Often one rivets an eye into the boom, but some cheek blocks have a built in pate with eyes for this.

For rivets of this size a hand rivet gun should be ok.

Drill a hole of the correct stated size for the rivet.

Place item to be riveted over hole ( hole in eye shopuld be same or slightly bigger, if not drill out with same drill bit ).

Insert rivet all the way into gun.

Place rivet head through plate into hole in boom and press the gun face firmly against the plate / eye face.

Squeeze gun to pop rivet; if you need to take another bite on the rivet make sure to keep the gun firmly against the item.

Bang and that's it, rivet done; when you've done one you'll find it easy.

For clew outhaul, reefing lines and all such controls on my 22' boat I use ball bearing blocks, these help tremendously in reducing friction and making everything easily adjustable; expensive but they're only fitted once.
 
On my 21fter with large mainsail I have had the wire tail to the clue which turns around a box pulley set in the top of the boom. It had a 3 purchase inside the boom to emerge under the gooseneck. It was then led back to the cabin top/cockpit. This was oK for many years but was difficult to get the tackle to ease due to friction.
A year back I replaced the boom with carbon fibre. (a broken mast) (much lighter) I fitted again a box pulley in the top of the end of the boom and also a saddle next to it. I now use a bit of spectre which goes through the clue eyelet (as a pulley) attached to the saddle this goes through the boom to another box pulley just aft of the gooseneck down to a turning block and hence to a winch.
Actually friction is such that if I winch it to pull clew out tight I can then hold it and move to a cleat. Easing is still a bit stiff but is easier to grab the spectre as it emerges at the end of the boom and pull a bit. (stiff rope)
My priorities were a boom as short as possible commensurate with enough length to get flat foot and light weight.
Fittings were inside the boom and on top to minimise head injury from protruding fittings.
I use a similar box pulley and saddle for reefing (one reef only). set a little further forward of the end.
I use webbing straps for mid boom main sheet attachment.
I use 3 turns of double sided velcro to hold the clue down to the boom while providing sliding ability.
It all works really well.
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boom1.jpg (22.6 KB)

Sorry first photo is old boom (can't seem to edit it out) none of actual boom end. good luck olewill
 

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Last edited:
A challenge to conventional wisdom?

parsifal said:
What you propose is similar to what I have (except that the line runs inside the boom). You want the cleat near the gooseneck so you can get at it to slacken off the outhall when running before the wind with the boom let right out
Click to expand...

Common practice i agree, but my local sail maker says otherwise. He says that when running before the wind one should keep the out-haul tension and luff tension and kicker tension to the max as this maximises the projected area of the mainsail and it is projected area that the wind is "seeing". When you let the tension off these things and let the sail belly, there is less area exposed to the wind.

I dont know whether he is right or not, but he has represented New Zealand in Olympic sailing and I havent so i am not arguing.:D

FWIW i do think you should have ability to alter tension underway. If you start in a gentle wind with a full sail and then suddenly encounter a strong wind, being able to flatten the sail is a not just desirable but a safety issue.
Cheers
 
Just make it simple. For a Jaguar 22 do that same as I did on my Foxcub. They are self tapping screws. No great tension there really. I just warpped the tail around the boom and made it off.

Clewouthaul.jpg
 
Looks good, I like the simple option. So are the screws on the cleat self tapping? Just drill the hole and screw 'em in?
 
jag22 said:
Looks good, I like the simple option. So are the screws on the cleat self tapping? Just drill the hole and screw 'em in?
Click to expand...
Yep.

A bit more space would have made making off easier. However I fitted the cleat when I still had the old sail which had a longer foot. The new sail I had made a tad shorter.
On a small boat all that happens if the outhaul comes undone is that sail de-powers. No drama.
 
Last edited:
RobinBirch said:
I used two sets of Holt double blocks (dinghy sailing type) to get mechanical advantage, a cam cleat to tension up and 6 mm line. Cheap and effective for the Hillyard. I don't think it needs to be too special.
Click to expand...

Mine is very similar except that I have a cleat riveted to the boom now near the end. It used to be up by the mast and I rarely used it, but being a cat I have a lot more width at the stern so is easier for me.
 
jag22 said:
Another question on this... What is the best way of attaching the new hardware to the boom? I'm reading alot about riveting / screw tapping?

Is it possible to get self tapping screws for this job?
Click to expand...

Yes, but don't forget to coat the fastenings with either Duralac or Tef-gel otherwise your boom will fizz away.
 
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