Outdrive servicing

FirstLady

Member
Joined
26 May 2008
Messages
36
Location
Essex
Visit site
Hi all, not posted here for a while- have been a bit too land based for my liking of late!! In a bid to reduce my servicing costs, I would like to do the bellows etc myself this year. I am mechanically minded & able, just a little fearful as they are v. heavy & obvioulsy will sink me boat if fitted badly!! Any tips/advice on removal etc- how hard is it?

They are VP SX single prop diesle units 1995.

Many thanks in advance if anyone can help me.

B
 
Hi all, not posted here for a while- have been a bit too land based for my liking of late!! In a bid to reduce my servicing costs, I would like to do the bellows etc myself this year. I am mechanically minded & able, just a little fearful as they are v. heavy & obvioulsy will sink me boat if fitted badly!! Any tips/advice on removal etc- how hard is it?

They are VP SX single prop diesle units 1995.

Many thanks in advance if anyone can help me.

B

It's not hard at all but the unit is heavy so two people to remove it and put it back on would be good. I haven't removed a Volvo SX, but I think this was the drive that evolved from the old OMC cobra and I have removed those before. It is just 6 bolts and the trim rams tie bar that hold them on, so very easy to remove. The biggest bugger is getting the drive shaft splines lined up when putting it back on.
 
With Acknols to Spannerman

Replacing VP 290 Drive Bellows,

 Tilt drive fully down

 Drain oil

 Remove the rear cover

 Disconnect the gear shift at the upper quadrant,

 Remove the two hex bolts in the round spigot on the steering helmet, (use the long screw from the cover in one of the two small holes to each side in the spigot to wind it out)

 Swing helmet up out of the way

 Remove the two 14mm nuts, one each side of the upper housing

 Remove the two upside down hex bolts inside at the rear above the gear shift quadrant.

 Loosen the two bellows hose clips

 Prise up the upper housing until the vertical shaft in side clears the lower section,

 Twist the housing 90 degrees

 Withdraw from the bellows.

(Make sure that you don't lose any shims that sit under the large bearing in the upper section, sometimes they stick to the bearing, place them in the recess in the mid section for safety.
Sometimes the break coupling follows the upper shaft as you lift it, just shove it back down with a screwdriver so it sits on the lower vertical shaft in the mid section.)
Now you can replace the bellows, we always replace the two 'O' rings between upper and mid section too, and rebuild in reverse, note the bellows is marked TOP at the the rear. And refill with approx 2.7 liters of oil, with new 'O' rings on the drain/top plugs.
 
Replacing VP 290 Drive Bellows,

 Tilt drive fully down

 Drain oil

 Remove the rear cover

 Disconnect the gear shift at the upper quadrant,

 Remove the two hex bolts in the round spigot on the steering helmet, (use the long screw from the cover in one of the two small holes to each side in the spigot to wind it out)

 Swing helmet up out of the way

 Remove the two 14mm nuts, one each side of the upper housing

 Remove the two upside down hex bolts inside at the rear above the gear shift quadrant.

 Loosen the two bellows hose clips

 Prise up the upper housing until the vertical shaft in side clears the lower section,

 Twist the housing 90 degrees

 Withdraw from the bellows.

(Make sure that you don't lose any shims that sit under the large bearing in the upper section, sometimes they stick to the bearing, place them in the recess in the mid section for safety.
Sometimes the break coupling follows the upper shaft as you lift it, just shove it back down with a screwdriver so it sits on the lower vertical shaft in the mid section.)
Now you can replace the bellows, we always replace the two 'O' rings between upper and mid section too, and rebuild in reverse, note the bellows is marked TOP at the the rear. And refill with approx 2.7 liters of oil, with new 'O' rings on the drain/top plugs.


I am not sure that this process will work on an SX drive.
 
Many thanks in advance if anyone can help me.

Yes lots of people do this job themselves.Get a workshop manual,either buy one or you might be able to swipe a copy from the interweb.Just get all the bits you are likely to need in one place and bear in mind it is a dirty mucky horrid job,so allow plenty of time(plus bit more) and do not try to hurry.


FIRST JOB IS DRAIN LEG OIL.Needs to be as clear as they day it went in,if milky you will need some seals replaced,this can be sorted while you are doing other jobs on boat.


You can go for pucker all VP stuff if you want or pattern parts to save money or a mixture of the two.
When the boat is out of the water(if not on trailer) try to get the crane driver to block off the boat as high as possible to make outdrive easier to get at.
Bits from Keyparts,Tricketts,Coastal Rides loads of places,save money buying oil from your local motor factor.
 
Last edited:
Top