Orkney to Shetland (and back)!

[Bristolfashion]

Well, we've crossed the Pentland Firth & are now in Scapa Flow. Hooray.

Any top tips from experienced types as to the best weather conditions/ patterns to look for to achieve a hassle free crossing (and back) to Shetland.

Any other hints gratefully received - we do have just about every pilot guide including the up to date CCC guide, so it's the inside knowledge we are after.

As ever, thank you for reading.

 

[AngusMcDoon]

Avoid northerlies on the way there. Avoid southerlies on the way back. Avoid gales from any direction.

Once you've left the swirly bits near the islands it's just open water sailing with a possibility of big ocean swells with a bit of cross tide to stir things up a bit. Gales or worse are well predicted and don't usually come as a surprise. The fun stuff starts (ends) near land, and the pilot book tells you all about that. The passage distance is too great to predict tides for when you arrive so choose good ones for when you depart and adjust as you approach your destination if it's beneficial.

 

[Minchsailor]

One small problem is that you are in Scapa Flow!

There are 2 exits -one to the south, retracing you steps through Pentland Firth; and the other, Hoy Sound, to the west. Essential to get the tides right as there are VERY uncomfortable seas in Hoy Sound when you exit on the ebb this way.

Assume you will be overnighting in Fair Isle, North Harbour. You will want to arrive in daylight (admittedly not too difficult at theses northern latitudes at this time of the year), so I would suggest a stopover in Westray.

It's then a bit of a hike to Fair Isle, and as @AngusMcDoon says, time it to avoid notherlies. Get the tides right at Sumburgh Head,. there is quite a roost (race) off it. If you are heading for Lerwick there is good anchorage at Sandwick Voe; if going up the west coast to Scalloway, good anchorage either side of the tombolo at St Ninians

 

[LittleSister]

if going up the west coast to Scalloway, good anchorage either side of the tombolo at St Ninians

That was a new one on me.
St Ninian’s Tombolo, Shetland: Arcs of sand and shells – Scotland – the home of geology

Now I need to go there to see for myself!

 

[srm]

Congratulations on getting so far north, I assume that you are in Stromness; my home for over 20 years.

The local rule for exiting the Flow to the west is slack water at the end of the west flowing tide, otherwise as Minchsailor pointed out it can be very uncomfortable, especially if the tide is against an incoming swell. If leaving Stromness to go west to Kirkwall leaving as I suggest gives the tide inbound through Eynhallow sound. Generally comming in from the west with the tide through Hoy or Eynhallow sounds is no problem with reasonable weather, and you won't get in against the full tide anyway. Going out to the west with the tide is not advisable, time it for slack water.

Likewise going to the east I used to exit the Flow to get slack water past the Lowther before the start of the easterly stream out of the Firth, though that did mean pushing a contrary stream at first. The CCC guide has complicated instructions for crossing the Firth there, but remember they were written in the days when sail was the primary propulsion. I simply worked my own times from the Tidal Stream Atlas without any problems making use of the short periods of slack or weak streams at critical points.

Heading to Shetland I would suggest departing from either Westray or Stronsay (Whitehalls harbour) using the tide. Leaving Westray keep 3 miles off the north end of North Ronaldsay to avoid the roost. If stopping at Fair Isle only go in to North Haven, there is a sector light and the entrance is fine if you keep mid channel. I have gone in in the dark, but have the advantage of having made the initial survey for building the breakwater. Just avoid getting set into the bay to the west on approach. I found the tide race round the north end of Fair Isle preferable to that off the south, but keep well off. There seems to be an eddy off the north east corner of Fair Isle.

Likewise, the Heads at the south end of Shetland should be given a clearance of three miles to keep out of the unpleasantness there. Grutness, just north of Sumburgh Head is a nice anchorage for a rest on arriving or to wait for the tide if heading south, however, be aware that inshore fishing boats tend to happily head for the pier blinded by their own deck and wheelhouse lights (or at least one did while I was there). On the west side I have found the holding off the moorings north of St Ninnians Ayre poor, but better further in towards the beach.

My preferred guide for sailing around Orkney and Shetland is the Admiralty Tidal Stream Atlas, in fact I regard it as essential. When skippering charter yacht in Orkney I told the crew we only sail with the tide, and if a strong wind is against the tide we might not go. Friends from Shetland complained about the tidal streams in Orkney, as they have a strong effect just about everywhere, while in Shetland they are only really strong in limited places, mainly the narrows in the sounds where you have to go with the tide.

Hope this helps.

 

[Malabarista]

Well, we've crossed the Pentland Firth & are now in Scapa Flow. Hooray.

Any top tips from experienced types as to the best weather conditions/ patterns to look for to achieve a hassle free crossing (and back) to Shetland.

Any other hints gratefully received - we do have just about every pilot guide including the up to date CCC guide, so it's the inside knowledge we are after.

As ever, thank you for reading.

Can’t really help with your enquiry but as I’m currently in Orphir ( overlooking the Scapa) please wave as you go by ?. I’ll be the bloke on the roof!

 

[Bristolfashion]

Congratulations on getting so far north, I assume that you are in Stromness; my home for over 20 years.

Actually at Burray, but heading to Stromness - yes, for us in a 40 year old Sadler 29, it's an achievement! Beautiful weather, which helps.

 

[srm]

Actually at Burray, but heading to Stromness

No tide to consider through the Flow, but you need the tide with you to make reasonable progress from Houton up to Stromness.

 

[Blue_mischief]

Nice anchorage the east side of Papa Westray, with, I think, a seasonal visitors buoy. Reduces the distance Pierowall to Fair Isle slightly. Allow a couple of days at Fair Isle. Interesting place.

 

[srm]

Nice anchorage the east side of Papa Westray,

Likewise, but only if it is suitable weather, it is possible to anchor near the pier at the south end of North Ronaldsay, or in the bay on the east side. There used to be a visitor buoy on the east side, it may still be there.

Orkney visitor buoys used to be well out though as they were laid by the port tugs that have a deep draught, but I left in 2014 so things may have changed.

A general note about cruising Orkney is that there are no 'all weather' anchorages, they will be exposed to winds and waves from one direction or another. Shetland however does have some wild anchorages that are totally enclosed. A favourite was Hamna Voe on the south side of Papa Stour, though the more usual is the bay (Housa Voe) on the east side.

Likewise, I may be out of date now but Lerwick Port in Shetland had two sets of visitor pontoons in the harbour for the summer. The south one, in the 'Small Boat Harbour' is preferable as it is more sheltered and avoids the wash from the pilot boat/tug as it comes and goes from its berth. Also, the northern pontoon could be used for the passenger ferries if a cruise ship is anchored in the port.

The Shetland Museum in Hays Dock is well worth a visit for the boats and marine exhibits. Though it made me feel old when I was there last as I recognised a number of the exhibits from when they were working in the 70's and 80's.

 

[Concerto]

Thank you psoting this thread as I am currently heading towards Shetland. The local advice is just what I need to make the best of my time in the Orkneys, Fair Isle and Shetland. Currently in Hartlepool, so roughly halfway there already form Chatham.

 

[AngusMcDoon]

Thank you psoting this thread as I am currently heading towards Shetland. The local advice is just what I need to make the best of my time in the Orkneys, Fair Isle and Shetland. Currently in Hartlepool, so roughly halfway there already form Chatham.

The golden undisputed rule of sailing to the Shetlands : it's way further than you think!

 

[Concerto]

The golden undisputed rule of sailing to the Shetlands : it's way further than you think!

But I am very determined and not under a rigid time constrait, so I will get there.

It is a bit like those from the Medway saying in three weeks holiday they are going to the Isles of Scilly, 95% never make it. When I did it singlehanded I planned for 8 to 9 days to get there, but I did it in 6 days - with a day off to catch up on sleep. I stopped every night as I have a maximum 24 hour duration for singlehanded sailing. My first stop was Brighton, then Weymouth, Salcombe, Falmouth, day off, the straight to Isles of Scilly. The days were long as I was up just after dawn and arrived I everywhere in the dark. Check out the distances and you will see they are quite long legs. On my return I sailed direct to Salcome, about 110 miles.

 

[srm]

Thank you psoting this thread as I am currently heading towards Shetland.

That's good to read, I get a bit annoyed at people who claim to have sailed around Britain but chickened out at the Caledonian canal and missed out on the best sailing waters in Britain. Not that there is anything wrong with the canal, I have been through a number of times and enjoyed each transit, even when it was raining.

The golden undisputed rule of sailing to the Shetlands : it's way further than you think!

Yes, but you can do it in a number of day sails if you stop in Fair Isle, which is well worth it. Then from Shetland it is only an overnight sail (180 NM) to Norway and some of the best sailing areas in the world.

Anyhow guys, am pleased to try and answer any queries you may have, though am a bit out of date having finally headed south in 2014.

 

[Concerto]

That's good to read, I get a bit annoyed at people who claim to have sailed around Britain but chickened out at the Caledonian canal and missed out on the best sailing waters in Britain.

Yes, but you can do it in a number of day sails if you stop in Fair Isle, which is well worth it. Then from Shetland it is only an overnight sail (180 NM) to Norway and some of the best sailing areas in the world.

Anyhow guys, am pleased to try and answer any queries you may have, though am a bit out of date having finally headed south in 2014.

My route is not fixed, but visiting the Orkneys, Fair Isle and Shetland Islands is the prime part of my Round Britain trip (see this post Round Britian day 1 and subsequent links to read about it. Tomorrow I expect to post the first video on YouTube of the section Chatham to the Humber.)

I only need to be back on the South Coast by the middle of September as I shall be on the Westerly Owners Association stand or boat every day of the show (Concerto was the boat at the show last year). Then home in Chatham by the end of September.

 

[jamie N]

I've found Orkney very interesting sailing, where one's never far from an anchorage if the weather does change, as well as the gaps between the isles being much wider than they appeared on a chart!
A day on Fair Isle was enough for me, however it may have changed after the fire; I've no idea of the state of the observatory?
Scalloway was a better bet than Lerwick I thought, with easy links across to Lerwick. Both places being worth a day or two. Orkney mainland is more interesting I thought, but it could be down to having been on Shetland quite frequently with work and relatives.
From Wick to Kirkwall, I've found the Skerries to be much easier on the sensibilities, by keeping well to the East; at least 5 miles to avoid the shallower water.
Sailing from Kirkwall to Pierowall I asked about the tides, and was told that when crossing into the North Sound, if I miss the gap, just take the second. Don't sweat it...!
Stromness is a terrific place, with so much to see and do. Leaving there into Hoy Sound requires attention, as it might ruin your day.

 

[Neeves]

The golden undisputed rule of sailing to the Shetlands : it's way further than you think!

No experience of this geography but I would agree with the sentiments but might add

'Its even further when you look to going back'

Jonathan

 

[srm]

The golden undisputed rule of sailing to the Shetlands : it's way further than you think!

Its not that big a deal. Over the years I have bought four boats on the south coast of England and one in Lancashire. My first passage with each boat was to Shetland for three of them and Orkney with the last two. One summer I sailed from Orkney to Shetland, then St Kilda, on to Brixham (for a classic yacht rally ), and back to Orkney.

 

[AngusMcDoon]

Its not that big a deal. Over the years I have bought four boats on the south coast of England and one in Lancashire. My first passage with each boat was to Shetland for three of them and Orkney with the last two. One summer I sailed from Orkney to Shetland, then St Kilda, on to Brixham (for a classic yacht rally ), and back to Orkney.

I know it isn't, it was just a toungue in cheek comment on the OP saying he was half way. They are further away than most people who live south of Watford think they are.

 

[Concerto]

I know it isn't, it was just a toungue in cheek comment on the OP saying he was half way. They are further away than most people who live south of Watford think they are.

It was not the OP who said that, but me in post #11.