Origo stove

[Praxinoscope]

Just for interest, this year for some reason, we only used one of the two burners on our Origo 3000, but both were filled at the start of our season in April, we topped the used contains up a few times during the season but left the ‘neoprene evaporation prevention pad’ on the unused burner for the whole season, working on the boat after lift out early October I thought I would use the alternative burner for boiling the kettle for a ’brew’, surprisingly five months after being filled but not used it happily boiled the kettle in the usual time, I have since then used it again still without topping it up.
From this experience I would suggest that if the neoprene pads are in place when the stove is not in use there is little loss from evaporation which teds to support those who consider these stoves to be fairly economical to run.

 

[Kilo]

Just for interest, this year for some reason, we only used one of the two burners on our Origo 3000, but both were filled at the start of our season in April, we topped the used contains up a few times during the season but left the ‘neoprene evaporation prevention pad’ on the unused burner for the whole season, working on the boat after lift out early October I thought I would use the alternative burner for boiling the kettle for a ’brew’, surprisingly five months after being filled but not used it happily boiled the kettle in the usual time, I have since then used it again still without topping it up.
From this experience I would suggest that if the neoprene pads are in place when the stove is not in use there is little loss from evaporation which teds to support those who consider these stoves to be fairly economical to run.

I bought a single burner version Little while ago, it didn't come with the neoprene pad, any idea where I might get one pls? Alternatively, since I've got a ton of old wetsuits maybe I could make one. Does it sit inside the lip of the burner, directly on the pad?

 

[Poignard]

Since we replaced our gas cooker with an Origo we no longer have to remind each other "Have you turned the gas off?".

Now it's "Have you put the rubber pads back?"!

 

[sarabande]

IIRC the neoprene pads are 3mm, and cost £7 from chandlers.

Any piece of closed cell neoprene will do if cut to shape, but keep it thinner rather than thicker. Fit to inside the rim as if you leave one pad on and use the other burner the heat might conduct and ignite the neoprene.

 

[gordmac]

Pity the stoves are no longer available.

 

[thinwater]

Amazing. Gear that works better if we follow the instructions!

You can also cut the pads from truck inner tubes. Butyl is best (resistance and lowest permeability), neoprene works, not silicone or polyurethane. Much depends on the actual denaturing agents and concentrations.

They go right on the canicster, then close the lid. Let the stove cool first. Some wipe the canister top with a damp washcloth, both to cool and to confirm that it is out.

 

[PhillM]

I loved mine. The routine was, boil the kettle, make the tea, drink it. Use surplus water to wash up. Then it’s time to put back the stove seal. Simples.

 

[MM5AHO]

I lacked the neoprene gaskets, so made two from used tyre inner tube rubber. Works just the same and as effective.

 

[jamie N]

With the insistence of my wife, we bought the Origo 6000, with the stove, and really do believe that it's an ideal piece of kit for us; but the price when it was available, was remarkable.

 

[Black Sheep]

Butyl is best (resistance and lowest permeability), neoprene works, not silicone or polyurethane.

I've been using silicone for years, and it seems to work well for me.
One plus is that you don't need the canister to cool so much. It's easier to remember to put it on if you can do so fairly quickly, rather than after 15 minutes. (and you get less fuel evaporation)
My other tip - if making your own, if you can, make it brightly coloured, and make a hook to hang it on in full view. Then you've got half a chance of spotting it when you've forgotten to put it back.

 

[thinwater]

I've been using silicone for years, and it seems to work well for me.
One plus is that you don't need the canister to cool so much. It's easier to remember to put it on if you can do so fairly quickly, rather than after 15 minutes. (and you get less fuel evaporation)
My other tip - if making your own, if you can, make it brightly coloured, and make a hook to hang it on in full view. Then you've got half a chance of spotting it when you've forgotten to put it back.

Silicone will work with ethanol, methanol, and some denatured alcohols. But some denaturing agents (MEK and other ketones are common here) will destroy silicone. It is one of the materials I tested. Butyl (inner tubes) was the only common material that worked with all brands of denatured ethanol tested.

If they don't use ketones, I agree, silicone has a lot going for it. That's why I tested it!!

 

[Black Sheep]

Thanks for that - I wondered why you advised not to use silicone.
For info, I mainly use B&Q bio-ethanol: La Hacienda Bio-ethanol fuel, 2L | DIY at B&Q
I have no idea what they use as denaturing agent, but my offcuts from a silicone oven glove seem to last just fine with that.
However, I'll regard that as a warning to take care if I find myself switching to a different source of fuel.

 

[thinwater]

Thanks for that - I wondered why you advised not to use silicone.
For info, I mainly use B&Q bio-ethanol: La Hacienda Bio-ethanol fuel, 2L | DIY at B&Q
I have no idea what they use as denaturing agent, but my offcuts from a silicone oven glove seem to last just fine with that.
However, I'll regard that as a warning to take care if I find myself switching to a different source of fuel.

Denaturing agents should be listed in the SDS.

 

[Black Sheep]

I'm no chemist! And this is a bit of thread drift, but may come in useful for someone, sometime...
The Safety Data Sheet for B&Q "La Hacienda" bio-ethanol is here: MySDS
It lists:
Ethanol (> 50%)
2-Propanol (1-5%)
Butanone (1-5%)
Denatonium Benzoate (<0.1%)

The first is the ethanol fuel.
I assume that the propanol is just a higher alcohol that comes in the blend? Or is it serving a particular purpose?
The denatonium benzoate is a bittering agent.
Wiki talks about Butanone being used as a denaturing agent, and refers to it as a ketone. But presumably not one of the nasty ones that eats silicone. Or maybe it is slowly eating my silicone pad, but too slowly for me to notice yet?

 

[thinwater]

These are the IUPAC names of these chemicals , but you know them by their common names.

2-propanol. AKA Isopropyl alcohol, a denaturing agent.
Butanone. AKA MEK, a denaturing agent. Rough on silicone, depending on the amount.

Compatability depends on the chemical, the concentration, and the polymer formulation. If your silicone is standing up to it, don't worry about it. That is the real test.

 

[Black Sheep]

Thanks - that's been really interesting, and hopefully useful for others.

I like silicone as a pad material for various reasons, including heat-resistance and availability in bright colours. But it sounds as though I shouldn't recommend it to others without a caveat that it might degrade in the fuel, so should be tested. My pad is cut from an oven mitt, so is quite thick. When I'm next on the boat, I'll have a closer inspection for signs of problems. It's possible that it doesn't actually come into much contact with the liquid fuel, as much as the vapour. Or maybe my silicone is made of sterner stuff than most.

As an aside to poster #2 (if still around!), I have in a pinch used headlining material as a pad. This is when on the "wrong" boat so didn't have my usual stove and silicone pad. It seems to work OK, but I do make sure the stove is properly cool before popping it in!