Fergus
Well-Known Member
Any known foibles/problems?
Any feedback appreciated!
Thanks
Any feedback appreciated!
Thanks
Opinions on Volvo 2003 Turbo?
- Thread starter Fergus
- Start date
aluijten
Well-Known Member
No hands-on experience, but in general, don't use a turbo-charged engine on a sailing boat. Turbo's are relatively sensitive for proper warm-up and cool-down after high load run. This is often an issue on a sailing boat, even with an normal engine.
It also increases the number of parts that can fail. And if the turbo fails; your wallet will not enjoy it...
The standard 2003 is not a bad engine (I've got one) if you maintain it properly. It's a bit noisy though. The 2030 or 2040 series is much quieter. You might consider one of those.
Hope this helps,
Arno
It also increases the number of parts that can fail. And if the turbo fails; your wallet will not enjoy it...
The standard 2003 is not a bad engine (I've got one) if you maintain it properly. It's a bit noisy though. The 2030 or 2040 series is much quieter. You might consider one of those.
Hope this helps,
Arno
Sailfree
Well-Known Member
I have a 75hp Yanmar turbo on our Jeanneau. I assume the manufacturers know what they are doing.
As a charter boat I think it has done about 600 hrs with no probs which is better than the previous Volvo 2040 in our Dufour that only did 550hrs before the usually middle cylinder siezed.
Engine designn has moved on so much its difficult to sort out whether things that were once novel and possibly unreliable should still be a cause for concern.
As a charter boat I think it has done about 600 hrs with no probs which is better than the previous Volvo 2040 in our Dufour that only did 550hrs before the usually middle cylinder siezed.
Engine designn has moved on so much its difficult to sort out whether things that were once novel and possibly unreliable should still be a cause for concern.
Stemar
Well-Known Member
Presumably, you're thinking about a boat that already has one.
If that's the case, from my experience of a non-turbo one (all strictly IMHO and with no warranty!):
1. You'll want to see it start from stone cold. If the weather's cold, even better. They can take a LOT of churning to get going. Injectors aren't too bad to recon, the (3 separate) injection pumps are expensive. If they ain't broke don't fix 'em, and they probably aint' broke. If it's a lack of compression, making it slow to start, I doubt it's worth spending the money on the engine.
2. There's a weakness in the splines inthe gearbox, on the input shaft from memory. There's a mod which, again from memory, costs 2-3 hundred in parts before it breaks, quite a bit more afterwards, plus labour (engine out job) This will probably have been done, but you want to be sure.
3. I'm inclined to agree with Arno about turbos in general. A turbo makes a given engine more powerful - depending on set-up maybe double, it's a bit less on the 2003, and more fuel efficient. The benefits for the boat builder are obvious - a smaller lighter engine for the same power output. Modern engines are also generally much lighter and higher reving, so smoother. Less space is needed, they're quiter and more economical. The first owner gets all those benefits, but I do wonder how many modern engines will last as long as the old MD series. It's the second and subsequent owners who will have the problems, so why should the builder worry? /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Usually, it's the bearings that go. The main symptom is a cloud of white or blue smoke when you open the throttle quickly. Avoid it by not letting the engine rev too high before the oil's circulating properly and by allowing the engine to idle for a few minutes before shutting it down. The problem is that to start, you need plenty of throttle /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
If it starts well and doesn't smoke a lot it's probably fine. (they all smoke a bit and the cold start is an overfuel device, so expect a cloud when you first start, but it should settle down quickly.) Ask for evidence that the gear shaft problem has been dealt with.
If there are signs of problems, I'd be inclined to negociate hard for a price that covers the cost of a new engine (You may need new engine beds, propshaft flexible coupling and prop, not to mention wiring aggro!) or walk away.
Good luck
If that's the case, from my experience of a non-turbo one (all strictly IMHO and with no warranty!):
1. You'll want to see it start from stone cold. If the weather's cold, even better. They can take a LOT of churning to get going. Injectors aren't too bad to recon, the (3 separate) injection pumps are expensive. If they ain't broke don't fix 'em, and they probably aint' broke. If it's a lack of compression, making it slow to start, I doubt it's worth spending the money on the engine.
2. There's a weakness in the splines inthe gearbox, on the input shaft from memory. There's a mod which, again from memory, costs 2-3 hundred in parts before it breaks, quite a bit more afterwards, plus labour (engine out job) This will probably have been done, but you want to be sure.
3. I'm inclined to agree with Arno about turbos in general. A turbo makes a given engine more powerful - depending on set-up maybe double, it's a bit less on the 2003, and more fuel efficient. The benefits for the boat builder are obvious - a smaller lighter engine for the same power output. Modern engines are also generally much lighter and higher reving, so smoother. Less space is needed, they're quiter and more economical. The first owner gets all those benefits, but I do wonder how many modern engines will last as long as the old MD series. It's the second and subsequent owners who will have the problems, so why should the builder worry? /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Usually, it's the bearings that go. The main symptom is a cloud of white or blue smoke when you open the throttle quickly. Avoid it by not letting the engine rev too high before the oil's circulating properly and by allowing the engine to idle for a few minutes before shutting it down. The problem is that to start, you need plenty of throttle /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
If it starts well and doesn't smoke a lot it's probably fine. (they all smoke a bit and the cold start is an overfuel device, so expect a cloud when you first start, but it should settle down quickly.) Ask for evidence that the gear shaft problem has been dealt with.
If there are signs of problems, I'd be inclined to negociate hard for a price that covers the cost of a new engine (You may need new engine beds, propshaft flexible coupling and prop, not to mention wiring aggro!) or walk away.
Good luck
AlJones
Well-Known Member
The V2003 is a great engine. I have had them in most of the Sigma 38's I've been on.
Watches:
Over heating, alternator shaking loose, therefore, belt slipping, and so to water pump not turning and heat increasing.
On the fly wheel, you will notice a 'groove' there will be another on the front casing, put these in line to operate the lift pump.
Watch the header tank, between engine runs. indicating a 'worn' spring in filler cap, can denote water escaping out of overflow pipe, not always given away with water in the engine comp as this can be steam which will 'find its own way' to other bilges.
Keep well serviced and the little donk will look after you! Remember, the prop is as important to a smooth running engine as the main lump itself.
If you would like any other advice I would highly recommend that you stay away from Seapower at Hamble point!!! Barry knows what he's doing, but those 'KIDS' he has working unsupervised are dangerous!!!!! They fitted a new MD 2030 for me, I have had 8 serious mishaps which all feed back to the instillation.
Best of luck
Al /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Watches:
Over heating, alternator shaking loose, therefore, belt slipping, and so to water pump not turning and heat increasing.
On the fly wheel, you will notice a 'groove' there will be another on the front casing, put these in line to operate the lift pump.
Watch the header tank, between engine runs. indicating a 'worn' spring in filler cap, can denote water escaping out of overflow pipe, not always given away with water in the engine comp as this can be steam which will 'find its own way' to other bilges.
Keep well serviced and the little donk will look after you! Remember, the prop is as important to a smooth running engine as the main lump itself.
If you would like any other advice I would highly recommend that you stay away from Seapower at Hamble point!!! Barry knows what he's doing, but those 'KIDS' he has working unsupervised are dangerous!!!!! They fitted a new MD 2030 for me, I have had 8 serious mishaps which all feed back to the instillation.
Best of luck
Al /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
jamesjermain
Well-Known Member
Its significant that there was a craze for turbo diesels in boats some 15 years ago. Now you hardly ever see them. I would want a thorough survey of a turbo 2003 before I bought one.
A normally aspirated 2003 is a good engine that can go on for years with regular servicing. They all have a tendency to smoke, even when warm and in good condition. Starting in cold weather, particularly after a long idle period (say a month or so), can be a bit hairy - you wonder whether it's ever going to go and just when you are about to give up it will belch a cloud of smoke and roar into action. Throttle back immediately and allow to warm up slowly. Don't forget the cold start process which involves pulling out, holding and pushing in the stop lever. This injects an extra dose of fuel and makes the initial firing even smokier. On Sweet Lucy I used to warn nearby mooring holders before starting her 2003 in the Spring
A normally aspirated 2003 is a good engine that can go on for years with regular servicing. They all have a tendency to smoke, even when warm and in good condition. Starting in cold weather, particularly after a long idle period (say a month or so), can be a bit hairy - you wonder whether it's ever going to go and just when you are about to give up it will belch a cloud of smoke and roar into action. Throttle back immediately and allow to warm up slowly. Don't forget the cold start process which involves pulling out, holding and pushing in the stop lever. This injects an extra dose of fuel and makes the initial firing even smokier. On Sweet Lucy I used to warn nearby mooring holders before starting her 2003 in the Spring
Fergus
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the info!
Norman_E
Well-Known Member
All Yanmar engines above about 60 hp are turbos. Their reliability is better than many normally aspirated engines (including Volvos IMHO). My own 88 hp Yanmar has done 4600 hours, I have seen one with 6900 hours on it and still running perfectly well. They start just by turning the key without any more throttle than required for tickover. I agree that turbos add to the complication of the engine, but Yanmar have made them reliable. The advantage is a big weight saving over a "normal" engine of the same power.
AlanPound
Well-Known Member
The main issue with turbos themselves (and I have this in regard to aero-engines, rather than diesels) is that the turbo operates at pretty high temperatures (on aero engines, in the dark, you can see the turbo casing glowing red) - hence the advice to let it idle for a while before shutting it down.
The danger is in shutting it down whilst it is still very hot, is that the oil stops circulating, then gets baked in the area of the bearing that it is attempting to lubricate - bad news...
(Well, that's how it is with aeros, anyway...)
The danger is in shutting it down whilst it is still very hot, is that the oil stops circulating, then gets baked in the area of the bearing that it is attempting to lubricate - bad news...
(Well, that's how it is with aeros, anyway...)
Norman_E
Well-Known Member
Not red hot on my boat, but common sense is to let it idle for a few minutes on both start up and shut down. In practice getting in to a marina berth usually gives it enough time a low revs to allow a safe shutdown after a quick check of the mooring lines.
michael_w
Well-Known Member
My boat has this engine. Yes, it can take a fair bit of cranking to get it going. The cold start procedure is essential.
Very smooth when compared to the previous boat's 2 cylinder 2002. Easy to get at the main service points, the're all on the front.
Sure the parts are expensive, but Volvo's have a pretty good worldwide dealer network, so you can get the parts. I always use pattern filters.
The turbo is bit of a non-issue. They are very simple devices, usually very well engineered as they turn at 100,000+ rpm.
My Landrover with a 200 tdi engine has now done 172,000 miles with no turbo problems. Just keep an eye on the oil level and let it idle for 30 seconds or so before turning off. This allows the turbo to come to a halt, whilst being supplied with oil. So no blipping the throttle and then switching off.
Lots of the "fishing boat" sized Volvos are turboed too.
Very smooth when compared to the previous boat's 2 cylinder 2002. Easy to get at the main service points, the're all on the front.
Sure the parts are expensive, but Volvo's have a pretty good worldwide dealer network, so you can get the parts. I always use pattern filters.
The turbo is bit of a non-issue. They are very simple devices, usually very well engineered as they turn at 100,000+ rpm.
My Landrover with a 200 tdi engine has now done 172,000 miles with no turbo problems. Just keep an eye on the oil level and let it idle for 30 seconds or so before turning off. This allows the turbo to come to a halt, whilst being supplied with oil. So no blipping the throttle and then switching off.
Lots of the "fishing boat" sized Volvos are turboed too.
B58
Well-Known Member
The majority of Yanmar turbo's are water cooled, that makes them considerably more reliable and safer!
