Older Johnson Outboard

[fast_boater]

Hey guys,

Just found an early 1980's Johnson 60HP outboard, comes with controls, and gas tank. He says it runs well but is hard to start but once is running runs fine, just says it needs a tune-up, i'm thinking carb cleaning, oil change, new plugs? Its a 3 cylinder BTW.

We want to use it on our 14' Northcraft V-Hull but on the boat tag says for motors up to 50HP? We used to have a 50HP chrysler but the lower end went. I know this motor is bigger but i fiqure if it isnt alot bigger and isnt too much heavier it might work? the owner of the Johnson said it will work just dont do anything stupid.

Any opinions? The motor we can get for just over a $200. Good deal? ARe these good motors? He said he had it on a 20 footer and could get 40-45mph out of it???

Reason he's selling is because he wanted a motor with power trim. Any opinions?





BTW: He said he was using it last spring and just put new $380 power pack on it.

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[longjohnsilver]

Had a Johnson 60 of about the same era, was an excellent engine, no electric start or tilt and trim, but started first time every pull.

Probably old fashioned compared to todays outboards, but couldn't fault it. Can't see a problem running it on a boat with a nominal 50hp limit, I've done it with plenty of boats with no problems just so long as it's not massively in excess of stated max hp.

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[gonfishing]

Hi
The price seems fair, however this is an old lump, have you checked on spares availability?? Older engines like this are getting fewer and fewer,and sometimes prices for replacement parts can start to get stupidly high!!!

Personnally I don't like the older Johnson lump quite large and heavy for the supposed HP, cantackerous and difficult to start, which is no good in an emergency situation!! If finances allow try and go for something a bit newer,and even better dual start. These I suspect are the reasons why the engine is up for sale!!!

Julian

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[nordic_ranger]

Evenrude and Johnson are the same outboard so have a look at this site it might help answer any questions you have.

http://www.outboardrepairs.com/evinrude/

Jim.

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[fast_boater]

Hey, the reason he is selling is because he needed a motor with power trim/tilt because he does carpenter work on alot of cottages on islands etc...

Are these strong motors? Easy to work on? There are alot of Johnson/Evinrude dealers around here they could probably get parts rite?

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[nordic_ranger]

'There are alot of Johnson/Evinrude dealers around here they could probably get parts rite?'

Around here is where? If guys like you filled in your Bio., it would help and let the rest of us know where here is. Or is it a big secret?
I posted the website to be of help. If it does not help you then maybe somebody else can benefit.

Jim.


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[longjohnsilver]

A bit harsh, he probably doesn't know what you're on about!

If Fastboater goes to his personal details he'll find a section to fill in about location etc.

As Nordic ranger says it does help to fill these in so we know where you're based.

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[Kevin]

Hi

Johnson engines are solid engines but they suffer from low end torque deficieny and are a bit thirsty, there are loads of them about so i would have thought spares wont be too hard to come by.

I think the biggest problem is not having power trim, you may be able to find an old second hand unit that may fit, but the work to do that may be awkward. without power trim it is difficult to get the best out of the boat and motor due to the obvious lack of trim control.

shouldnt really encourage people to put bigger engines on than manufacturer recommends but to be honest these manufacturers do leave loads of room for manouver, although i dont know the boat you are mentioning. To let you know my little 15 footer was rated for an old 70hp ( that was at the crank not the prop) and i have put a 115hp ( at the prop) on and now the boat goes like im sure the designer wanted it to.

be cautious of the weight difference but to be honest the weight only really jumps when you go from 3 - 4cylinder or 4- 6 cylinder IMHO moving in and around the same number of cylinders wont add enough weight to worry about. I expect your chrysler 50hp will be within a few kgs of the Johnson anyway.

The big thing i would check is that the transom is solid, this can be done by taking a sample and checking it to be dry and not damp and that its solid all the way through, if the transom is solid you shouldnt have any problems with the new engine in my opinion.

might be worth checking compression in each cylinder but this is only an indication as sticking piston rings can give higher readings. and check gear oil for milky look ( water in the oil) and for metal flakes ( sign of possible wearing).

sorry if ive just told my granmother to suck eggs but thought id put down what crossed my mind as i wrote.

Kevin

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[tcm]

the power ratings on boats are a general guide. It's a 60 hp motor but it's old, and even then, there isn't a guaranteed 60hp. Most of all, of course, it doesn't develop 60 hp unless at full whack. So the "don't do anything stupid" is good advice i think - don't leap over waves, give it fully welly from standstill, or use full gas except in calm conditions. I have put 15hp on the back of a dinghy rated 10 hp for several years, no problem.



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[Kevin]

Thing that has just crossed my mind is that insurance companies can be funny if your engine is larger than the boat is plated for, so check this perhaps before putting it on or knowing insurance companies they may try to wriggle out of any potential claim. this is a far bigger issue IMHO than whether the boat will handle it ok - which it will with ease im sure.

Kevin

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[fast_boater]

ok easy man i didnt even know how to put that info. in yet. and when i said "around here" i meant that where i live there are johnson/evinrude dealers so my question was "WOULD THE DEALERS MOST LIKELY BE ABLE TO GET PARTS FOR IT?"

Also yes the website you gave me i did benefit from.

BTW: Someone said these motors are thirsty? Would it be any worse than our old chrysler?

What should compression be for each cylinder and how would i check it without the motor hooked up? just spin it by hand would that give me an accurate reading?

Thanks.

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[Kevin]

Hi

I doubt it would be any thirstier than your old chrysler, they werent very frugal on the fuel.

on compression its the differential between each cylinder which is of more importance than the actual figure. preferrably no more than about 4/5% difference between each cylinder would be good IMHO.

flick it over with the pull start is the way ive always done it, dont want or need it to fire up obviously.

kevin

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[fast_boater]

hey kevin thanks for the reply. Do i leave the other 2 plugs in when checking compression?

I dont think this has a pullstart our chrysler didnt either??

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[Kevin]

Hi

the other two spark plugs should be removed prior to compression testing.

To get an accurate reading it is best that the engine is run up to running temperature before the readings are taken, but this isnt always practical and whether its hot or cold ultimatly its the difference between the compression in each cylinders which is important. I think as a figure anything around 135 on each cylinder would be good for that engine but if its lower it doesnt mean there is a problem as long as they are all lower.

It is also advisable to have the carbs fully open along with the choke on when doing the compression check.

kevin

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