Oil or coolant drain valve - no tools

[Spi D]

My twin Nanni diesels (Toyota based) have drain plugs situated on the side of the blocks. Not too bad access, but once removed will empty some 15 liters of coolant (each) into the bilge. No space for a container anywhere under the plug :ambivalence:
Can be sucked up with a Pela type pump but leaves a greasy mess and access to wash 'n rinse is quite limited. And will take repeated Pela sucks-ups at 6.6 liters.

Annoying. So got the idea of fitting valves with hose nozzles in order to run the coolant to bucket or cans and stumbled over Fumoto oil drain valves. Because engine designers do not use standard inch sized thread for 'water' jackets, Fumoto's selection of metric threads are spot on. Highly recommended!

They come complete with seals (extensions if the valve can't be fitted directly to the block are available), are well made and really simplifies drainage. Twist the lever - that's it! No tools needed.

I've even ordered for our cars' oil drains. Simple, no mess oil changes.

No connection - just a happy customer.

BTW: The used coolant collected is run through the sea water circuit when engines are winterized, so double joy (££ )

 

[Baddox]

That looks interesting. My Nanni has the coolant drain plug on the side of the heat exchanger, just above the starter motor and too close to the engine housing to allow a hand or spanner to reach it without major dismantling.

 

[Spi D]

My plugs are well accessible but I wanted to avoid letting 30+ liters into the bilge. There are more plugs to drain exchangers and turbos but the block plugs effectively drain almost the capacity stated. Refilling with a 1:1 coolant/water mix protects to -38C and I'm confident that any minor amount left from the previous year makes no difference.

If access to coolant filler is restriced you may even use the valve for putting fresh coolant in. Need a pump or to fill from a point well above the engine, though.

The valve inner bore in my valve size (M14 x 1.5 thread) is approx 8 mm, fitting a standard 10 mm hose. I use one designed for domestic water installation in boats (plenty available and inexpensive ) but I guess any would do.

 

[jamie langstone]

I have a Nanni diesel so i am interested but do you have any pictures of what you have done.

 

[Spi D]

These valves are available with many threads, so not specifically for Nanni. I got mine from http://www.quickvalve.co.uk/ who were very helpful despite my intended use, a bit beside their normal business. There is thread guide on the website too.

Key is to know your plug thread. I detected mine with a thread gauge tool and checked by fitting it to a known size nut. M14 x 1.5 it is (Toyoyta base engine). Thread length is good to know too.

Pictures will follow, once at the home office

 

[Spi D]

Now, gents:

Had to teporarily take the black hose off to make space for screwing in the valve, but that was easy. In my case the extension was needed to bring the valve a bit away from the housing, right next to the plug hole.

 

[jamie langstone]

Thanks for the picture a great help.

 

[jamie langstone]

Just looked on my engine and the outlet like you have is connected to the hot water tank

 

[Spi D]

I presume your water heater hose is a standard 16 mm, as also used in the automobile industry?

I had the very same situation on one of my engines. Instead of a drain plug it had a 16 mm hose end, of course also M14 x 1.5.

To me that leaves two options:
Fit the valve and a short 10 mm hose to a connector with 10 mm on one side and 16 mm on the other - both barbed. When you need to drain you simply close the valve, disconnect the 10 mm hose from its hose end and put a longer in it's place to drain the coolant into a suitable container. This is what I did.

Alternatively keep your setup and fit a standard 16 mm t-piece joiner with bleed screw to enable drain