Oil lamps

Serious question; serious answer

I have used paraffin lamps on boats for 35 years now. There are some "simple rules and few" which, back in the days when your Grandmother had a paraffin heater in the hall, everyone thought they knew, for ordinary wick lamps.

1. Don't over-fill the reservoir - leave a bit of an air gap to allow for expansion. Clean the lamp, after filling. Use a funnel, and fill the lamps over the sink.

2. Turn the wick down, light it, put the glass on, allow a minute or so for the glass to warm up, then adjust it, but err on the side of too low, not too high. Too high and you will get smoke which dirties the glass. Give it a little longer to be sure you've got it right. be cautious about washing lamp glasses - it is better just to wipe them with kitchen paper - they tend to shatter in use if washed.

3. Try not to carry a lighted lamp; in the case of hurricane lights, riding lights, etc. this is unavoidable and you must carry them, but do so carefully and close the lamp before you move it.

4. Don't forget to blow it out in the morning! But in the case of a cabin light, the traditional wisdom is that you don't blow it out when you turn in at night; you turn it down to the merest glimmer. Then, if you need a light, and cannot find matches or torch. you need only turn it up.

Lamps will often go out if knocked; indeed this is the recognised way of putting an oil sidelight out in the morning - unscrew it from the light board and tap it gently on the deck.

!!!!By far the biggest danger arises from mixing petrol cans and paraffin cans!!!!


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Re: Oil lamps and safety

Must admit I'm less bothered about the filling side than any other. I've often used paraffin as the lubricant/cutting fluid on my lathe when cutting aluminium. I am occasionally less than scrupulous when clearing up, and haven't had problems yet. It's not much more dangerous than diesel.

Regards

Richard.


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I finally ordered an antique one from oldnautibits. £45 and from the picturtes looks very nice.

The ones on classic marine looked good too, but I figured at the price oldnautibits was charging, I may as well get one with some age. If its no good, I'll send it back and get the classic marine one.

Thanks for all the advice!



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Re: Serious question; serious answer

Andrew - what is the "inside oil" on trimming the wick (shape, carbon, etc)?

John

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Re: Serious question; serious answer

I never used to bother at all. Just lately I have started snipping the corners off on a couple of lamps where the chimney is not over large for the burner.

The quality of these things has got worse; when they were made for daily use the proportions were kept sensible.

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Re: Serious question; serious answer

Thanks for that. We just have one for mood or in case (hasn't happened yet) we become electrically deprived sometime. Hiscock in his cruising bible (forgottten the name, is on the boat so can't check) talks about trimming the wick to get a horizontal top edge to the flame but I found that experience to be rather like trimming the legs of a 3 legged stool!

Regards

John

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Re: Serious question; serious answer

"Cruising under Sail". Oxford University Press, 1950. ;-)

I agree, but the result to avoid is the crescent horns effect where the flame is low in the middle and cracking the glass at the edges; snipping the corners of the wick helps avoid this, I now find.

My prize oil lamp is known as "the big riding light"; it is a Davey cone burner light 22" tall and 10" in diameter with a 1 1/4" wick, dated 1954. It was one of the NUC lamps off a coastal collier scrapped in the Medway. My sister retrieved it from an antique shop and after removing the red shade we now have a BOT certified 3 mile range riding light, which is used if we anchor for the night off the beaten track! The sidelights and stern light came off a tug scrapped in Hong Kong!

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