Oh no, It's not a Blakes Valve, So what is it?

kunyang

kunyang

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I had a project to replace a blakes valve this winter, but on investigation, a Blakes valve is an extra inch taller than the valve I have! It is very like a blakes valve, but has only three screww through the hull.

What is it, can I get one somewhere, or if not what can I use. I don't think I could fit a Blakes in as room is limited.

I may be able to use griding paste to get a better seat on the original, but the cone is badley pitted.

Any advice?

Dave
 
kunyang said:
I had a project to replace a blakes valve this winter, but on investigation, a Blakes valve is an extra inch taller than the valve I have! It is very like a blakes valve, but has only three screww through the hull.

What is it, can I get one somewhere, or if not what can I use. I don't think I could fit a Blakes in as room is limited.

I may be able to use griding paste to get a better seat on the original, but the cone is badley pitted.

Any advice?

Dave
Click to expand...
Dunno but dimensions of Blake seacocks HERE and HERE if it helps
 
kunyang said:
but the cone is badly pitted.

Dave
Click to expand...

I'm amazed that some plastics/chemical engineer hasn't come up with a teflon-microbaloon or similar coating that could be applied to pitted surfaces in circumstances such as this.
We complain about glazed cylinder bores (where the little holes are filled with smooth hard gunge) at the same time as bemoaning the fact that we can't fill the pitting in seacocks and propshafts.
Doesn't seem right to me.

for the OP, I had the same problem changing from gate to ball valves and had to re-arrange the surrounding boat...
 
kunyang said:
I had a project to replace a blakes valve this winter, but on investigation, a Blakes valve is an extra inch taller than the valve I have! It is very like a blakes valve, but has only three screww through the hull.

What is it, can I get one somewhere, or if not what can I use. I don't think I could fit a Blakes in as room is limited.

I may be able to use griding paste to get a better seat on the original, but the cone is badley pitted.

Any advice?

Dave
Click to expand...

Simpson - Lawrence ???
 
Expect your existing valve was made by Roe - very similar to Blake, but 3 holes and slightly smaller body. I replaced my toilet outlet (because the cone had worn oval) with a Blakes. Plugged the existing screw holes, enlarged the main hole slightly and drilled for new bolt holes. Plus minor reshaping of a wooden frame to clear the larger casting.

Pitting may not be such a problem - worth grinding in and trying. Pack it well with Blakes grease and it may well seal OK. Mine still sealed evn though some pitting, but because of the ovality it would not turn easily when adjusted to seal, and leaked if backed off.
 
I am going to get some grinding paste and give it a go. The trouble is that I would have to completely re-route the pipe and have the valve in the wet locker if it doesn't work, and of course (not ideal), I'll only find out that it still weeps when she goes back into the water.

I'll see how I feel when I have had a go at it.
 
kunyang said:
I am going to get some grinding paste and give it a go. The trouble is that I would have to completely re-route the pipe and have the valve in the wet locker if it doesn't work, and of course (not ideal), I'll only find out that it still weeps when she goes back into the water.

I'll see how I feel when I have had a go at it.
Click to expand...
I had a go at Sunrunners' seacocks (Blakes types) last Summer, they were quite pitted when I got all the deposits off but after grinding in there was a clearly visible seal all around the top and bottom of the valves and no leakage when she went back in the water. £250 saved and some effort too so it's well worth doing imo.

Boo2
 
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