OB control lever not energizing starter motor easily

simonfraser said:
lever used to allow the starter to be activated easily
now the starter only just fires with the lever slightly forward of central

i am assuming this is due to something slipping out of alignment ?
to be found in the johnson 25HP rather than the lever up front ?

any pointers very welcome
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If no joy on these forums post your query on the iboats Johnson and Evinrude forum http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/johnson-evinrude-outboards

BUT properly identify the model with the model number , which will id the year and other relevant features. ( Johnsons produced 25 hp outboards almost continuously from 1951 Rope start. electric start, 2 strokes and more recently 4 strokes bu the model number will tell all)
 
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I agree with VicS - no-one can help you properly without some basic info
Your description is far from clear. Are you talking about the throttle-only lever, on the remote control box, that you use for cold starts?
If yes, it could be a lever alignment issue, and you can check its function by watching it open the butterfly inside the engine, but that feels unlikely. It could be that your engine is just harder to start (for any of several reasons) and needs a but more fuel to start (ie lever further forward), and needs perhaps a tune up and carburettor check
 
its a J 25 TEL 4 SR

the engine starts just fine once the starter spins, its the starter motor thats becoming more difficult to start spinning, the starter is not stuck, its an electrical issue linked to the position of the throttle lever.
this now takes very careful positioning of throttle-only lever just forward of the neutral position.
 
OK, bit by little bit with the symptoms...

There is a microswitch inside the remote control box that cuts the 12v circuit to the starter motor solenoid, if it thinks the engine is in gear. It feels like you have a fault there, possibly the switch itself, possibly in the connections to that switch, or possibly its alignment with the cam that operates it. This fault is all in the remote box, not in the engine itself. You'll need to take remote control box apart and diagnose/fix - should be easy to see the problem once you've opened up the remote
 
Ok, answering my own Q:
The OB engine has a switch on that allows the starter to be energised, once it is in neutral.
This all got out of sync.
Reason, when the Lower leg had been removed for a water pump impellor change the adjustment between the gearbox and the top control changed. Guess due to a poor set up.
You can see the adjuster in a cut out at the front of the lower leg, it's crucial that this adjustment is not upset else your gear control does not work.
Some smart Alec tried to rectify the issue by adjusting the levers up top inside the OB. This fixed the gear select but threw the neutral position out and the starter was not energised.
All crystal ?
 
simonfraser said:
Ok,...................................
All crystal ?
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Like mud in a wineglass.

Nut #2 not adjusted correctly when the upper and lower shift rods were reconnected?

convert



Anyway its a Suzuki DF25 ?? Not a proper Johnson
 
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'Nut #2 not adjusted correctly when the upper and lower shift rods were reconnected?'

correct, i assume that it has gone out of adjustment with numerous previous leg removals for the ? water impelor
the latest replacement was one too many and triggered the issue

shall take a careful measurement of the position of nut #2 for future reference

p.s. is there a way to set the position of nut #2 without trial and error ?
 
I had a dimular issue on a mariner 20hp 2 stroke that came with the boat. The gear select lever got further to wowsrds the back as time went on. General advice was to adjust the cable (in another forum).

nothing to do with the cables, the actual lever on the engine case was in the wrong position @ -2:50 not 12.
my boat is moored which makes it more difficult both see whatever, or work on it - and its also very heavy!

I had to get my son in to help take it off, i found the connector on the gear rod half way down, was loose, with no lock nuts ��.
I run some 6mm shake proof lock nuts onto the threads, made sure it was in neutral by turning the prop to feel free spinning, wind the connector so only a thead was showing, and place the control box lever in neutral.

Line up and join both, tighten both lock nuts, job done.

When next these rods are parted, the upper nut i will crac half a turn which will the act as a 'stopper'.

Alan
 
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simonfraser said:
'made sure it was in neutral by turning the prop to feel free spinning'
yeh kinda obvious now i have read it in the manual kindly supplied by Vics :)
loctited mine too, but now i know to adjust the lower rod / nut it's simple.
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I meant to add, suggest to try to get the ends of the rods in the middle of the connector as possible, simply to share the load evenly.

as if you get to much load on to too few threads, it may strip out under pressure or shock from a minor collision.

Alan.
 
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