Numerous exterior hull maintenance questions - topsides, boot topping and antifoul!

alexincornwall

Well-Known Member
Joined
20 Mar 2017
Messages
247
Visit site
Happy New Year all. There are many, many searchable threads here so please excuse my apparent laziness if this has been covered previously - optimistically I’m hoping for a one thread DIY guide!

As relatively new owners of a ’99 Dufour 32, this is the first year that the boat has been lifted from the water and it now sits in its cradle awaiting hours/days/weeks of TLC. I’d like to attend to all of the maintenance tasks myself but having never previously tackled anything like this, it all looks a bit daunting at this stage. I have various questions relating to all aspects of the hull exterior and would be grateful for some advice from experienced handy men/women who might be able to help me along.

Top sides - The boat’s topsides have taken on a rather dull and stained appearance and I’d really like to revive this to generate a bit of shine. I’d planned on applying some oxalic acid (thinking Starbrite hull cleaner), and then spending a bit of time with some kind of rubbing compound (akin to T-cutting a car), followed by a general GRP polish. I was also considering investing in an orbital machine polisher to get the job done faster. Does anybody have an opinion on my suggested methods, materials and tools here?

Boot topping - This is a bit of an issue. The boat is generally detailed in a uniform navy throughout, but currently sports an unpleasant looking pale blue boot topping. The last owner commented against a self adhesive vinyl boot line and appears to have favoured paint (I didn’t think to ask why). It looks to be a self eroding antifoul (I can rub it off with my finger). They have then applied a white paint to the small stripe between the boot topping and the line of the main antifoul (this appears to be a hard paint). Personally, I’d prefer a straight forward vinyl boot topping, but can anybody advise on this, or why the previous owner seemed dead against this? I’m a bit concerned about adhesion over the existing (suspected antifoul) paint. If I were to paint again, should I be looking for another antifoul (navy this time!)? If the vinyl seems a better option, can anybody recommend a tried and tested supplier and any application tips (I was considering the use of a hairdryer for more flexible application))?

Main antifoul - The boat sits on a pontoon at Mylor (Cornwall) and I was going to opt for 5 litres of Seajet Shogun 033. Will this be sufficient for two coats on a 32 footer? I’m hoping for two years of protection - unrealistic? I understand that the boat was sand blasted by the last owner before the previous application of one coat, so it looks to me that there won’t really be any scraping required, although there are some white patches showing so I was going to apply a primer to those areas; Hempel Underwater Primer. I’m fairly sure that the application won’t cause me too many issues but can anybody suggest from experience how long it will take to apply the two coats? Also, and I suspect this is a fairly witless question, but what do you guys generally do where the hull is obscured by the cradle pads and at the lower extremities of the keel? Finally, is there any prop treatment that you would suggest, or should that just be left as it is?

I appreciate I’m asking a lot of questions here so many thanks in advance for any guidance!
 
I'm not a great polisher using t cut and turtle Wax which are universally condemned on here. I would say that I wouldn't recommend tape for boot topping as it has no anti foul properties and my boot line always attracts quite a bit of crud.
 
Your topsides polishing sounds fine. As said vinyl boot topping is a waste of time. The main purpose of boot topping is to provide a means of preventing fouling on the area that is part in and part out of the water. For this a dedicated boot topping or trilux is the correct thing to use. Yes, prime the bare patches underwater then apply your 2 coats of AF. 5L may not be quite enough. Whether it lasts 2 years will depend on how effective it is in your area. You will only know after the first season. At best you are going to need an interim scrub. You may be able to arrange for the pads to be dropped one at a time with an alternative prop put in so that you can deal with the area underneath. otherwise you will have to patch while in the slings waiting launch. Speak to the yard. Little you can do about the bottom of the keel, although you may be able to get at part of it. However it is likely to be crusty with years of barnacles and the odd bit of rust. For the prop many use sprayed on Trilux, but the metal needs to be well prepared and it may not last more than a season. Very difficult to get paint to stick well to a revolving bit of bronze.
 
I think the main thing is not to be too ambitious the first year so long as the boat is presentable, and get sailing. Coloured topsides are always going to be a problem after this amount of time. My HR has blue for the upper part only. My attitude has been to make do as best I can with cutting compounds and a powered polisher. I feel that I can be as rough as I like, because sooner or later it will need painting or re-gelling. A friend had this done recently and it looks excellent, though it cost a bit.

I agree that vinyl boot-topping is unlikely to be a good answer. I have had antifouled and enamelled boot tops in the past. Antifouling is necessary if the boat is kept on something like a swinging mooring but enamel is better in a marina where water doesn't get slopped onto it regularly. My boot top is dark blue and just needs the occasional wipe.

I can't advise you about A/F for your area. I can be worth repriming bits that are thin or have worn. The usual process for pad areas is to save some antifouling and do the areas when the boat is in the slings. I have a good relationship with our launching lads and they routinely do this as part of the system. I just leave a tine with an old brush and a little A/F on the ground under the boat. This doesn't work with Optima, which needs an hour to cure before launching. In the past I have had the props moved so that I could paint the patches, but this is tiresome. A better option would be to have the boat left in the slings during a break or overnight to enable the A/F to cure.
 
Welcome to wonderful world of hull cleaning etc.

You don't say if you hull is white or coloured. If white then you might be pleased with how well to Starbrite stuff works. If it is still dull then do as you suggest. I have never used a polisher, opting for arm ache instead.

I've just brought the antifoul up a few inches above the waterline. The boot topping (which I don't have) would usually be between the top of the antifoul and the gelcoat.

Antifouling doesn't take long with a roller - two coats in a day of it is warm. If you do it on a cold day then ensure the antifoul is well warmed up and stir it often. Cold antifoul on a cold hull is very hard to get on with a smooth finish.

Top tip - put the paint tray inside a plastic bag and pour the AF on that. When you finished then remove the masking tape, pull of the roller head chuck them in the tray with your disposable gloves - turn the bag inside out and throw it all away leaving a clean tray for next time.
 
Not much to add apart from DO NOT USE ANTIFOUL FOR BOOT TOPPING. The previous owner did this, everytime something rubbed against it the paint would come off and end up on the top sides. This would happen with the dinghy or if I was giving something a scrub along the water line. Like Moodysabre said take the antifoul up a couple of inches above the waterline.
As for top sides cleaning if you have yellow or brown staining forget any products, just buy some oxalic acid crystals mix with warm water and washing up liquid. Paint it on with a big emulsion brush, leave for 20 mins, wash off. It doesn't work so well in cold weather.
 
As far as polishing is concerned, this is what I did last year on a very dull and grubby hull, and it worked very well.

1./ Wash with oxalic acid to get the brown/yellow off
2./ Wipe over with Toolstation uPVC solvent cleaner (gets all the chalky bits off).
3./ Cut/polish with 3M medium compound using a white woolen pad on a rotary polisher
4./ Wax with 3M wax using a yellow woolen pad on a rotar polisher
5./ Wipe over with a clean dry duster (to get rid of any residual wax.

Boat cut/polish - 3m-perfect-it-gelcoat-medium-cutting-compound

White bonnet for polishing - 3m-hookit-sbs-compounding-head

Yellow bonnet for waxing - 3m-hookit-sbs-polishing-head

Boat wax -3m-perfect-it-boat-wax

Velcro pad for the bonnets (to fit your polisher) - 3m-hookit-sbs-backing-pad

Toolstation uPVC cleaner
 
Last edited:
Our 30ft boat needs two 3L tins of AF to complete the job. Some antifouls become passivated if left out of the water for an extended period after applying, details will be on the tin.
 
Oxalic acid is really useful especially for removing rust marks, just get some in powder form and add warm water (you can find it on eBay). But be warned it is seriously poisonous and will be absorbed through skin contact so wear gloves and eye protection.
I keep my antifoul about 3" above the waterline. A useful tip if you are starting with a clean bottom is to use primer and then a first coat of hard non eroding antifoul a different colour to the eroding antifoul you are using, this way when the eroding antifoul is nearly gone you will see the non eroding colour showing through. As for 2 years you'll have to try and see or ask someone who keeps their boats near yours. I use cruiser once and one coat does not last a year on the river Dart.
 
Top