now this isnt about wooden boats but your expertise might help

[Birdseye]

the kitchen has a double sink with one of the covered by a shaped wooden chopping board in some darkish hardwood. I dropped the said board on the garage floor ( dont ask) and it split along the join lines between one of the planks used in manufacture. A lovely straight machined clean edge .

question is, what glue to join it with in a but joint. the board isnt subject to big transverse loads but it is often wet.

 

[jamie N]

Araldite?

 

[johnlilley]

Polyurethane Glue is probably best for this. It foams up but is totally waterproof. cramp one side of the board to a heavy but perfectly straight section of timber across the width leaving enough excess to cramp the broken section across the join. Another similar section a bit further along, now you should have a section of the board with two pieces of heavy straight timber at 90 degrees and overhanging the glue line. set the broken section into position laying on the heavy cross timbers & wedge & cramp these into position once you have put a plastic bag on top of the cramp support. timbers to stop the glue bonding the repair to the supports. Job done.

John Lilley

 

[sarabande]

use biscuits.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJt5NRZH7_U

 

[oldbilbo]

Srabande is right - but a continuous 'biscuit' of thin ply 'stopped' ( where the slot, cut in the broken edge of both pieces, does not extend right to the outer edges and so would beinvisible after the repair ) would be rather stronger than intermittent biscuits.

That requires a router with a 'slot cutter' bit - or a biscuit-jointing cutter machine where your semi-lunar cuts for biscuits all join up.

There's plenty of 'how to' on YouTube and on the 'Trend' website.

 

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

Well, in my view, using biscuits would be overkill. The original board didn't have any and lasted fine until dropped. I'd use John Lilley's method, except I'd use a boat-building grade epoxy (which, if you use it, should not be clamped too hard).

Once repaired, the timber can be protected from moisture penetration by the use of liquid paraffin (or a vegetable oil, but not as effective) on a regular basis. (And it will look nicer too.))

Mike

 

[Birdseye]

On no better basis than that I have some available, I'll try the epoxy route. Degrease / clean the two surfaces first with acetone and let it all evaporate.

 

[PCUK]

Biscuits and Cascamite will make a proper job. Just gluing the edges back together won't. Just because it was cheaply made from new doesn't mean you have to do the same.

 

[Wansworth]

Dowels would be easier than biscuits if you don't have a router