Novice needs help rigging a mainsheet, kicking strap, genoa on the Crouch

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hartswood

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Foolishly and happily I have bought my first boat, 26ft Newbridge Pioneer. It is currently at Essex Marina, Wallasea on the Crouch and will be moved to Bridgemarsh in the next couple of weeks. I need to rig a mainsheet, kicking strap and rolling geona. As a beginner it looks horrendously complex, so much string! What would members recommend re a set up? Advice / assistance would be greatly appreciated. I have a traveller on the aft of the cockpit. I am currently surrounded by motor boats on the hard, so no one to ask. Is it something I should be able to do or do I need professional help? I also need a good / reasonable electrician. Prior to me buying the Pioneer thieves stole a battery and cut some wiring. I need to get the shore power, vhf, nav lights and wind instrument up and running again. A big thanks to all members who responded to my earlier post "own boat tuition". Today, I will be sitting in the cockpit on the dry with no sheets practising how I would sail her, after I've finished cleaning out the Blake's head outlet seacock, nice!
 
Hi Hartwood,

For the electrical issues, I recommend you get in touch with Bru, of this parish, who I'm sure can sort you out. Time and cost will depend on the level of chaos left by the thieves.

Mainsheet will need two blocks, with shackles and a length of rope. The detail depends on the purchase you need -I would estimate 3:1 or 4:1 for your boat, but, if there is a Newbridge Navigator Owners Association, that would be the place to find out what works best. For a 3:1, the block on the traveller needs to be 2 sheeves, preferably with a cam cleat incorporated, and the block and the block on the boom single sheeve and becket. They should be sized fot a rope bigger than the rope you use. The rope should be 10mm, or possibly 12mm for more comfortable handling. To work out its length, rig the boom then push it out till it touches a shroud. In this position, measure the distance from the middle of the traveller to the sheet fitting on the boom then multiply by the purchase ratio you have chosen and add however much you need to work a splice in one end plus 1m for a bit to hold on to and a figure 8 in the end you hold. This will actually give you a bit too much rope, but that's better than too little! To reeve it (3:1 version) you first need to work a small eye splice in one end of the rope, not easy with modern multiplying, but you can do it yourself if you buy a special fiddle- Google that if you're interested. You can use a simple bowline, but it's not so elegant. Shackle the blocks to the traveller and the boom (the traveller block with the cam cleat facing forward), then shackle the eye in the rope to the becket on the block on the boom. Pass the other end of the rope forward through the small upper sheeve in the traveller block then aft through the boom block, then forward through the larger lower sheeve on the boom block, through the cam cleat and finish off with a figure 8 knot.

For a kicker I'd look for one of the ready made ones from an Internet chandler such as Seamark Nunnington- take a look at what sort of boom fitting you have and find a convenient securing point at the mast foot before you start looking.

Rigging the genoa is straightforward, you need a furling line (on the drum?), a halyard (on the mast?), a pair of sheets and a shackle to secure the tack to the furler drum. Basically, it's a material of bending on the sheets and halyard then one feeding the luff rope into the groove as another pulls the halyard finally shackling the tack on before you tension the halyard and roll up. There are some detailed tricks which vary from furler to furler - find out what brand your furler is the Google for the instructions.

Easy things take an awful lot of words to describe, but I hope this helps. Apologies in advance for all the typos which are almost certainly in there!

Peter
 
Hi Hartswood, welcome to the forum you will find loots of help on here. You mention you are in Essex marina, this is my base. if you need a good electrician if you ask in the marina office for Alan Grey, he lives aboard one of the Barges on the outer arm, he has carried out much work for me, he is entirely trustworthy and does an excellent job. I will pm you with his contact number. With regard to rigging the mainsheet ask in TCS the chandlery shop. I am away till next weekend but don't mind giving you a hand on the set up.
 
Hi

I still have an original brochure from N B Yachts for the Pioneer with some specifications and pictures which may help with your setup.

PM me if you are interested.

Ensure you service your engine before setting out.
 
Peter many thanks for your clear and concise explanation. I think I've got the hang of it now. Both the Newbridge owners site and Barton have confirmed the desired setup. Both came up with same result and the same block model numbers. I spoke to Barton on the phone for almost an hour. They had me walking all over the boat and examined photos. Barton said to use the same setup for the kicker and mainsheet, but I like the Seamark prebuilt option. It's annoying going into large chandlers and finding nothing in stock, only managed to get one block so far. I've got an electrician coming on Monday. Still reeling from the price of Blakes Seacock grease.
 
Just like to thank everyone for putting me on the right track. I'm going to be so nervous when the boat is lowered into the water. It's been carefully examined,but I don't know if it floats. I think I've worked out what all the holes in the bottom are and checked the seacocks work. Thank you for the kind offer of the brochure, but have already printed out a copy. It has pride of place on the chart table.


Frank
 
Don't worry too much about the floating issue, when they first lower her into the water, the yard gang should ask you to go below and check for leaks before they take the slings away so. if the river is rushing in anywhere, they can just pick her up again. That's standard launch procedure in my experience.

Peter
 
Tam Lin said:
That's always puzzled me. Surely all grease, being petroleum based, is water resistant?
Click to expand...

True, but some more than others. I always found Duckhams Keenol, a white grease, served well where water resistance matters. They stopped making it a few years ago, but somebody else does now, selling anything from a 400g cartridge to a 50 kg drum of the stuff. Works well for seacocks, stern glands, boat trailer wheel bearings, rigging screws, winches and feathering props. Manufacturers of lots of these items delight in selling their own "special grease" at inordinate prices, where Keenol does as well or better. Much like the special ptfe spray lubricant sold by rigging suppliers. The same stuff sold for bikes costs half the price.

Peter.
 
PeterWright said:
True, but some more than others. I always found Duckhams Keenol, a white grease, served well where water resistance matters. They stopped making it a few years ago, but somebody else does now, selling anything from a 400g cartridge to a 50 kg drum of the stuff. Works well for seacocks, stern glands, boat trailer wheel bearings, rigging screws, winches and feathering props. Manufacturers of lots of these items delight in selling their own "special grease" at inordinate prices, where Keenol does as well or better. Much like the special ptfe spray lubricant sold by rigging suppliers. The same stuff sold for bikes costs half the price.

Peter.
Click to expand...

Ramonol is the replacement and £15 for a tub of that isn't horrendous...
 
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