Nicholson 26

Sovereign

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Joined
23 Jul 2009
Messages
60
Location
Emsworth
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Hi,

Is there anyone out there who has / has sailed a Nich 26?

I realise they are rugged - but would grateful to know how well they sail - speed / pointing ability (given decent sails and skills of course!) - speed under engine - re-engining experience and engine choices? What to watch for if purchasing?

Was thinking of getting a Bowman 26 but everything we have seen so far is in very disappointing condition - wish we had kept our old one which we sold 13 years ago and was immaculate but now a real wreck....

Thanks.

Sovereign (based Emsworth)
 

Porthandbuoy

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Joined
27 Apr 2003
Messages
5,596
Location
The Gareloch
www.backbearing.com
I've got one, Ladybird of Rhu, and so far I'm very pleased with her. She had a big refit in the late '80s; new Selden mast & boom and Yanmar 1GM10.
She's a great boat to sail single-handed as nothing happens too fast for me to cope with.
My autohelm has an auto-tack feature which puts her through 100 degrees. I am always able to bring her up a few more degrees, so I reckon she tacks nicely through 90 degrees without pinching. It's not easy to get the gunwales under, but it can be done :D
With a design waterline length of 20' her max hull speed was probably intended to be 6 knots. I've had just over that by GPS but consider 4.5 - 5kts to be a good cruising speed, as long as there's enough wind. At 4.5 tons (unladen) she needs a bit of a breeze to get up to speed.
When the wind pipes up she's a doddle to reef, goes just as fast, and feels as safe as a church.

Watch out for osmosis; not unusual in boats of this vintage. Ladybird was epoxied early on in life (70s I think) and some remedial work carried out in the 80s. I found nothing to worry about last winter when I had the hull back to the epoxy.
Check for play in the rudder mountings. Gudgeons and pintles are ,or should be, bronze. A little play is acceptable, but watch for grounding damage at the rudder heel.
Check for corrosion at the heel of the mast compression post. Crumbling there is not to be recommended!
Early Nic 26s had toughened glass in st/st frames. Later models toughened glass in rubber seals. Look out for any glass that has been replaced with perspex.
I've seen two different ways of fastening the chainplates. Ladybird has massive GRP webs bonded inside the hull through which the chains are bolted. This means you can remove/reseal/maintain the chainplates easily. The other method I've seen is st/st bar glassed, and presumable bolted, through the hull and protruding above the deck. Strong undoubtedly; maintainable not.

At the end of the day you are looking at a 40+ year old GRP yacht based on traditional wooden yacht design & construction. Structurally they're probably overbuilt (20mm where I fitted the echo-sounder transducer).
Not everyone's cup of tea, but I'm a coffee drinker.
 
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