Newbie - Relay Teak Strip Flooring

najsmith

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21 Jun 2005
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Have lots of scratches on Teak strip flooring and would like to

1) Take it up
2) Sand & treat (??) wood
3) Screw it back down, plug and caulk.

Questions?
a) Should you use a glue to adhere the teak floor to the secure the floor - it's held in place by a number of SS S/T screws right now

b) Can I sand this stuff?

c) How should I treat it afterwoulds?

Thnaks

NAJS

Samara_teak_Floor.jpg
 
Can't quite see from pic but sounds as if it isn't a ply laminate like those teak/holly boards. So it's solid strip then ? screwed down to a ply backing ?
If twere me, I'd avoid removing strips from backing cos it's a lot of work getting old plugs out, scraping out caulking, planing ( or sanding) boards then putting humpty dumpty together again and refinishing.
Can you hoik the floor out and put a belt sander over it, see if caulking holds up then refinish and put back.
As to finish to use : I had a big tin of Bourne seal which was cheap, durable and I used it for all sorts until the last bit went solid. Must get some more.
If, on the other hand, the floor is seriously solid strips with no backing ply then this answer is irrelevant but has begun the process of getting you confused by conflicting advice.
 
I believe its a laminate applied to ply.

Trapper 500 ~1979

Will attempt the sander approach & look into getting some bourne seal though not sure the interior stipulation is appropriate. Can get quite wet on that saloon floor...
 
If it is a laminate - ie a thin facing veneer - then power sanding could well go through this into the next layer and that can't be put right. The screws and plugs bit puzzles me though in that case - are they to hold the whole shebang down and so only a few and not a whole line of em in every strip ?
Look at edge of floor and see if there are thin ( 0.6mm typically) layers.
If you need to remove plugs to unscrew then recent posts explain how.
More likely to be ply on a Trapper, I'd guess, if original
If so, then sand circumspectly when you get through the varnish layer. Might have to tolerate some deeper scratches - boat is nearly as old as mine after all.
If you are keen on the cosmetics, then could put another layer of faced ply on top again: use floor as a template, cut with jigsaw from the underside to prevent splits on top and stick down with Thixofix contact adhesive.
 
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