New Wooden Washboards what wood to use?

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sailingrbg

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I was thinking of making some wooden wahsboards and was wondering if anyone can advise on the best kind of wood to use. Is it best to use marine ply (if solid teak or Iroko is out of the question) do i need to provide an edging to prevent damage to the joins or will providing a light exopy covering prior to varnishing be sufficient?

Many thanks for any advice
 
We used marine ! ply 12mm epoxy coated x 3

rebate a step on top of bottom one and same on bottom of top one

edge coated x 4

varnish

on inside we glued 3/4mm white shiny plastic sheet

2nd year it was still good
 
On my previous boat I replaced the single plywood wash board, which had delaminated badly, with a pair of solid iroko boards. No need to edge the boards with something else and it was cheaper than teak faced marine ply. I didn't cut rebates but chamferred the top of the bottom board and bottom of the top board to stop water coming in.
 
I used marine ply and cut the "joining edge" at 45 degree angle on a table saw - they match up perfectly and water doesn't get in. I take them home for teh witer to re-varnish and replace with a single piece one I made out of old thin unvarnished ply - sort of makes the boat look suitably tatty when it is laid up ashore all winter.
 
Marine Ply works for us, regularly varnished (winter time) We also have roll up plastic one, that we use for when sleeping on board to keep rain out but lets light in. Also use it for running before the wind if it's raining. It stays furled over the companion way until it's needed helb by 'string', removed when we secure boat.

Best of both worlds.

Also have a perspex sheet washboard for same reasons above, except it's more durable.

Sometimes I remember why we are such a heavy boat! (but with ALL the comforts!)
 
Did the same with one enhancement - a strip on the inside over the "join". The 45 degree cut slants down & out to avoid water ingress as you say. But I found that since the boards were a bit floppy in the slots, the top one tended to slide down over the bottom one a little. The join didn't look too good from the outside & the top board could jam. The strip on the inside keeps the two boards in line, making it look good and stopping any jamming.

Epoxy covering can be a pig. Tips a boat builder gave me were to make sure the ply is absolutely clean with a thinners wipe over & also to warm the boards up. Also, it's absolueley essential to cover with varnish to make the UV barrier.Epoxy can degrade very fast under sunlight.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Sometimes I remember why we are such a heavy boat! (but with ALL the comforts!)

[/ QUOTE ]

Years ago I was a bit miffed when coming ashore ( after a good sail with indifferent attitude to set of sails) when chap said

'Oh you'd think yours would go faster than mine being longer but yours is quite sluggish.'

I was taken abackish (stupid male ego) - later wife brought up:

'He has an outboard, we have an inboard, he carries biscuits and a bottle of water and never strays more than two miles from home, we're ready to go off for a fortnight without calling in for stores, fuel or water.'

The list includes, 15 metres spare chain, spare anchor and kedge, the old type (heavy) bolt-croppers, 18Kg crab pot, emergency pot-rope croppers, ply cut to size to cover window should it be stove in, epoxy kit and bi-axial cloth ref needing to repair hole, engine spares, spare gallons fuel and all the other junk you carry.

She won't help me move it all out half way through one season and go in for the local race with bare minimum.

Oh forgot Fray Bentos essentials and mushy peas also add Kg

Son chips endlessly ref weight
 
Many Thanks for all your comments might have a look at the pricing of Iroko teak, any one got advice on where best to store the washboards down below all be it boat specific.


Thanks again
 
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