New rigging required plus osmosis issues

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pcatterall

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Looks like our insurers will want us to replace our 12 year old rigging. Any ball park figures please ( we are in .Spain and a ketch 33feet)
Moisture readings all very high, warm med water and lift out only for antifouling apparently not good! we wont be doing it for a couple of years though but does anyone have ball park figures for the going rate?
Should turnbuckles be replaced with the wire? They look good and ( unlike wire) can be visually examined?
thanks as usuall
 
I replaced all the wires and turnbuckles(some were damaged) when I had to replace the rigging. Used a local firm who were good and the best price. From memory about £900 for a Moody 33mk2 about 5 yrs ago. I gave him the old rigging and he copied it with good mods.
 
All down to risk and reward....

How much do you "save" by not doing it?

Plenty of people keep existing bottlescrews and toggles etc. There aren't many failures AFAIK (as long as they have been cleaned and greased, and as long as they have never seized or galled, and as long as there's no visible cracks etc, and as long as they were never badly taped so that seawater was trapped). To me it makes sense to keep them - they don't flex or stretch like the wires and particularly where the wires enter the swages.

That said, I changed all of mine!
 
Between £3 and 4k for the rigging. I am just having my 31' sloop with twin backstays and 2 forestays done and will be close to £2k - you have 2 sets! You can get a ball park figure for just the wires by using the calculator on the Jinny Green website.

Personally I would forget about the high moisture content. Peeling etc has really gone out of fashion because of the high cost and failure rate of the treatment and I doubt you will find anybody in Spain who would have a clue how to go about it anyway. If there are no visible blisters just ignore it. If blisters do form then break them out, dry, fill and carry on. No harm will come to the structure if you do nothing.
 
I paid €2650 for cash in Spain six years ago for just the wires including the crane to kift and replace the mast. However, I also got a quote for €6000 which was probably a "go away" price. I would budget for €4K+
 
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Yes, you can do that but unless you have accurate measurements of each stay or are willing to convert to Sta Lok terminals you run the risk of getting it wrong. best approach is to take the masts out, remove all the stays and get a rigger (which might be JG) to make exact replacements. This will save you the cost of the rigger to take them off and re-attach them. That is the approach I have taken.

Sta Lok allows you to cut to length on site but the cost is often greater than swaging.
 
Tranona said:
Yes, you can do that but unless you have accurate measurements of each stay or are willing to convert to Sta Lok terminals you run the risk of getting it wrong. best approach is to take the masts out, remove all the stays and get a rigger (which might be JG) to make exact replacements. This will save you the cost of the rigger to take them off and re-attach them. That is the approach I have taken.
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I did it in two parts: cap, fore and back stays first and then the baby stays. That way the mast stayed up. BUT important to have a jury rig for the baby stays as the mast can pant in a big blow - allegedly. JG turnaround was less than a week.
 
pcatterall said:
Looks like our insurers will want us to replace our 12 year old rigging. Any ball park figures please ( we are in .Spain and a ketch 33feet)
Moisture readings all very high, warm med water and lift out only for antifouling apparently not good! we wont be doing it for a couple of years though but does anyone have ball park figures for the going rate?
Should turnbuckles be replaced with the wire? They look good and ( unlike wire) can be visually examined?
thanks as usuall
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I did my mizzen on a 44ft ketch last year myself using Stalok fittings. All new bottlescrews. 6mn wire. £1k
If you have bronze bottlescrews in good condition they will be worth inspecting. Use a magnifying glass. It's amazing what you can spot. If they are good then keep them. If you use a rigger he should be able to give you his view on reuse or not.
On the previous boat I measured up for the full length of wire we would need to replace rigging. We then did it one wire at a time with mast up. Wasn't hard. Replaced wire with halyards to deck cleats.
 
Tranona said:
Yes, you can do that but unless you have accurate measurements of each stay or are willing to convert to Sta Lok terminals you run the risk of getting it wrong. best approach is to take the masts out, remove all the stays and get a rigger (which might be JG) to make exact replacements. This will save you the cost of the rigger to take them off and re-attach them. That is the approach I have taken.

Sta Lok allows you to cut to length on site but the cost is often greater than swaging.
Click to expand...

I had a quote from UK company for supply only, one for swaged both ends, the other for swaged at top and Staylock at bottom. IIRC the difference in price was around £300 extra for Staylock but, easier to do with rig up and no need to pay for crane. Thankfully I haven't needed to replace, 20 year old mast head rig has just been given clean bill of health on insurance survey and rig inspection.
 
Graham376 said:
I had a quote from UK company for supply only, one for swaged both ends, the other for swaged at top and Staylock at bottom. IIRC the difference in price was around £300 extra for Staylock but, easier to do with rig up and no need to pay for crane. Thankfully I haven't needed to replace, 20 year old mast head rig has just been given clean bill of health on insurance survey and rig inspection.
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Thanks for that. I think that given our location we will have to consider DIY with mast up.
Plan is .... ascend mast, identify fittings at top measure all lengths with a good tape, order made up wire from JG, fit one by one using line as temporary stay.
We have two steps at the top and I guess a 'belt' of some kind around the mast would free up both hands.
Our surveyor said that although the rigging looked good, the insurers would be likely to consider 10 years too old, perhaps I need a different insurer?!
 
pcatterall said:
Our surveyor said that although the rigging looked good, the insurers would be likely to consider 10 years too old, perhaps I need a different insurer?!
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We discussed that point and he agreed that his report wouldn't mention age, just that he had carried out a full inspection from bosun's chair and that the rig is in a serviceable condition. He also included photos of mast terminals. Report accepted by insurers.
 
pcatterall said:
wondering about measuring up and ordering from Jimmy G.
Then replacing one by one with mast up?
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I considered doing as you suggest and came to the conclusion id only have to make one error and id save nothing ,even cost more. As it was I gave everything to a rigger and everything came back perfect.
Steveeasy
 
steveeasy said:
I considered doing as you suggest and came to the conclusion id only have to make one error and id save nothing ,even cost more. As it was I gave everything to a rigger and everything came back perfect.
Steveeasy
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A good option is Stalok at one end done by you and swaged done by wire supplier. That way you only cut the wire when you have the old one off. Just make all wires 100mm longer than you measure. Also, if you have special mast terminals it's easier to have wire supplier swage them on. Fortunately all mine are eye terminals both ends. Easily obtainable in Stalok fittings and not too expensive
 
pcatterall said:
Looks like our insurers will want us to replace our 12 year old rigging. Any ball park figures please ( we are in .Spain and a ketch 33feet)
Moisture readings all very high, warm med water and lift out only for antifouling apparently not good! we wont be doing it for a couple of years though but does anyone have ball park figures for the going rate?
Should turnbuckles be replaced with the wire? They look good and ( unlike wire) can be visually examined?
thanks as usuall
Click to expand...
Hi Peter I’ve got copper coating on and like you only come out for anodes and seacock Shaft seal etc and quite low moisture readings..down the way from you in Alicante ( we’ve communicated several times)
 
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