'New' RIB and outboard issues

[Rum_Pirate]

I have been given (nothing as expensive as a free boat) a RIB and an engine.

Sounds great.

The RIB is a somewhat aged unit.

The engine is a Tohatsu 2.5 outboard.

However, I describe these lightly, the rib has two main issues.

FIRST The transom has come 'unglued' from the side tube.
Question 1 : Is it OK to fix this with 5200 ?

If it is not advisable to use 5200 then what adhesive is recommended?


SECOND There is a puncture at the bow on the inner (easily accessible) face of the tube at the bow
Question 2 : Is it OK to fix this with 5200 ?

Perhaps a vulcanising tube patch would be adequate?

The outboard has a (minor) issue.
The fuel cock on the engine has broken off in the 'on' position. The previous owner tried a temporary solution of setting a small coin in 5200, where the cock turn was located to stop the fuel flowing out.
The engine now currently does not run. :ambivalence:

A new 'US$20.00' fuel cock is on its way from St.Maarten as I type. [may get it at end of this week - life in the Caribbean].
I can only hope that none of the sealant has travelled into the engine innards.

Please not that this RIB is not intended for future heavy usage.
Mainly trips of 100yards/metres with 1-4 people and a cooler aboard.

One last thing, how do I know if the tube on the RIB is Hypalon or uPVC (or other) ?

 

[landlockedpirate]

No point using single pack glue to fix it, at best its a temporary repair.

You need either 2 pack PVC or Hypalon glue. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Polymarine-PVC-2-Part-Inflatable-Boat-Adhesive-Glue-/251508542917?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item3a8f13cdc5

You will need to remove all of the transom, clean the old glue off and then repair. Trust me, a quick fix just wont last at all, the rest of the transom will simply fall out.

Repair on bow needs to be done with the same glue and a decent sized patch, make sure its big enough to easily cover the hole and round off all the edges on the patch. Prep the area well with acetone, glue on both bits, leave to dry, glue on both bits again, leave to go tacky, then press together with as much pressure as possible.

Good news is that its all easy but time consuming to do, bad news is that once 1 bit of glue fails, the rest will follow quickly.

Tell us what make and model you have or stick a picture up and we can tell you whether its PVC or Hypalon.

 

[jfm]

I agree with LLP. 5200 is completely unsuitable for this job and would be weak. You need 2-part (base adhesive, and you squirt in a hardener compound) neoprene type glue made specially for inflatable boats

 

[Rum_Pirate]

OK

More info:

It is an AVON ROVER 2.8.

I think it is Hypalon. I tried the testing ( C ) below : After test there was some 'grey' on the cloth but tube surface did not feel 'tacky'.

Are your Tubes uPVC or Hypalon?
If you looking to repair your tubes with patches or to replace any valves on your rigid hull inflatable boat or inflatable it's essential to know what fabric your inflatable sponsons are made from as it's very important to use the correct adhesive for the material.

There are two main types of material used in the manufacture of inflatable boat tubes.
1. Hypalon:- this is a rubber/neoprene material;
2. uPVC:- used in most production manufactured boats.

Test to Check
There are several tests to check.
A. If you can see the inside of the tube, through the valve, Hypalon is a dark grey or black on the inside. uPVC is the same colour on both sides.

B. Sand the material. Hypalon will matt down and produce a dust. uPVC will just scratch, There will be no difference in colour.

C. Wipe over lightly with MEK (methyl ethyl ketone - often available at hardware, paint or plumbing stores, sold as a cleaner for uPVC pipes or lacquer thinner) or Acetone. Hypalon will leave an oxidization and maybe some colour on the cloth. The material will not be affected. For uPVC you will have some colour on the cloth but, the surface of the material will feel tacky.
It is important to use the correct solvent on this solvent test. http://www.hotribs.com/02articles/059-tube-materials/inflatable-boat-tube-materials.asp

So given the advice above, I will order some 2990 ADHESIVE, 2 PART FOR HYPALON

http://www.islandwaterworld.com/browse.cfm/2990-adhesive-2-part-for-hypalon/4,15406.html

The extent of damage is as follows:

Starboard tube/transom connecton:

 

[Rum_Pirate]

Bow patches that are leaking , or one is.

 

[Rum_Pirate]

Engine fuel cock 'fix'

 

[jfm]

Avon=hypalon definitely
Looks repairable, but the white stuff looks like incorrect glue used by someone before, so you might want to remove that first. And the triangle of hypalon that is screwed to top of transom has a busted seam so it would be nice to have that stitched or buy a fresh repair patch from one of the specialists. Good luck

 

[Rum_Pirate]

Avon=hypalon definitely
Looks repairable, but the white stuff looks like incorrect glue used by someone before, so you might want to remove that first. And the triangle of hypalon that is screwed to top of transom has a busted seam so it would be nice to have that stitched or buy a fresh repair patch from one of the specialists. Good luck

You are right. The white stuff is 5200 marine adhesive.

I have a lot of work ahead. It hopefully will be worth it.

 

[landlockedpirate]

You are right. The white stuff is 5200 marine adhesive.

I have a lot of work ahead. It hopefully will be worth it.

Good little rib, well worth the effort to repair. :encouragement:

Make sure you take the whole tube off the transom, doing half a job now will come back to bite you.

You need to prep with Toluene because its Hypalon, not acetone.

 

[Rum_Pirate]

Good little rib, well worth the effort to repair. :encouragement:

Make sure you take the whole tube off the transom, doing half a job now will come back to bite you.

You need to prep with Toluene because its Hypalon, not acetone.

Why?

What is the problem with using acetone?

 

[landlockedpirate]

Why?

What is the problem with using acetone?[/QUOTE

Went on a course with Polymarine years ago, always used acetone for PVC a toluene for Hypalon, different chemical reactions.

Thinking about it, acetone could still work on hypalon, but toluene would melt PVC.

 

[Rum_Pirate]

Thanks.

I'll report back on how I get on.

 

[Rum_Pirate]

Engine fuel cock 'fix'

I was a little apprehensive with the proposed repair and aftermath - that the 5200 sticking the coin over the
'hole' of the fuel cock lever may have been sucked into the carp etc etc.

The cover came off easily. bolts carefully places in order and safely.

The small bolt clamp to the line above the fuel cock is made of a ferrous material and had in a few months rusted excessively (separate post on that). It came undone after a bit of finagling.

The down line clip came off easily.

New fuel cock went on easily.

Fuel replaced in the tank (getting it out is a wee bit tricky as there is a 'little' bit left which runs out when you take the fuel cock off).

Then a bucket of water, a couple of pulls and she roared (putt-putted actually) like a champ.

A much easier operation than I anticipated.

I now have a year old 2.5 engine for US$20.00. :encouragement:

 

[TQA]

I have a newish AB hypalon type dink. The rowlock peeled off at 6 months while I was rowing after a Tohatsu 18 hp also newish failed.

I stuck it back on with the AB supplied 2 part glue. That lasted a month. No rowing was involved.

I stuck it back on with some outrageously expensive 2 part hypalon specific glue. That also lasted a month. No rowing was involved.

I got some 2 part epoxy that is sold as being suitable for hypalon dink repairs and that has held for 18 months+. IWW has the epoxy.

Re your dink it looks like 5200 has been used in the past. I have assisted and observed in a few efforts to repair dinks over the years and 5200 does work well on hypalon. I guess I would use that in your position.

Also for minor leaks the auto shops have a product called Slime, it is bright green. It fixes small leaks. Pour it in inflate dink and roll over several times to distribute slime. It does work and I have used it to get another year out of a failing old hypalon dink. Mine had pinhole leaks along 2 seams.

Re your Tohatsu, as a temporary repair heat up a screwdriver and make a slot in the broken stub of the fuel cock. You will need a screwdriver to turn it off and on though. Alternatively just remove the cock,

PS Rowing AB dinks sucks donkey breath and Budget Marine did not repair the 11 month old Tohatsu under warrenty.