New drilled wooden block for Plastimo Standard Outboard Bracket

[NorthRising]

Does anyone know where I can obtain a drilled replacement wooden block for this type of bracket - they don't seem to be sold separately (no suprise there).

http://www.plastimo.com/catalogue/productdetail.php?LangID=1&ref=17619

To make one I'd need to drill two 8mm diameter 270mm long holes through the block to take the threaded rods on which the wooden pad is suspended; unfortuntely that is beyond the abilities of both me and my toolkit.

 

[rob2]

I know it's mot what you want to hear, but I suspect that you won't find one off the shelf. Faced with the same problem I would laminate a replacement, routing grooves in each half to make the hole when assembled.

Rob.

 

[Giblets]

Perhaps Chuchilo of this parish may be able to help. He is good with wood and has a lot of very impressive wood working tools in his workshop.

 

[VicS]

Braze a drill bit onto a length of steel rod.

Drill half way from each end.

Care, or a guide, will be needed to keep going straight. But easy if you can fit the drill in a lathe.

Withdraw the drill frequently to clear the swarf.

 

[pvb]

I'd also drill from each end. But I would bother brazing a rod on to a standard drill bit, I'd just get a long drill bit. One around 150mm long would do the trick; they're only a few quid.

 

[prv]

Looking at the bracket in the picture, is it really necessary to bolt right through? I'd have thought a pair of chunky coach screws at each end would hold it firmly enough.

Pete

 

[NorthRising]

Food for thought, I suspect I'll go for the routing option.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[NorthRising]

Right here is how I solved this one:

- The old block was 36mm thick so cut two pieces of 18mm ply to match the width and height of the old block.
- Epoxy bonded these together
- Epoxy bonded three strips of glass tape around the thing just in case the bond fails (don't see why it should - more a just in case)
- Sanded, and a few coats of varnish
- Extra length drill bit from tool station, placed block into bracket and drilled in from both sides, using the holes in the bracket as a guide, until they met from each side, this was the hardest bit.
- it all goes together well and feels robust.

 

[VicS]

I expect in the 2 years since he asked the question the OP has found a solution

 

[prv]

I expect in the 2 years since he asked the question the OP has found a solution

The grave-robber was the OP.

Nice of him to report how it went. Took a long time to get round to doing the job though!

Pete

 

[l'escargot]

Sounds about right, I've got jobs that have been hanging around about that long...

 

[Mark Turner]

Sounds about right, I've got jobs that have been hanging around about that long...

Indeed, an inability to get through my winter lay-up list of jobs to do has lead me to a philosophy that its not that a job is taking too long to do, just that it went on the list too soon. For example, in 2007 I decided to start replacing the headlining on my Gibsea, and got the forecabin done straight away. This year I'm tackling the aft cabin because the headling actually fell off in some places last year. Cant help thinking that the forecabin was done in haste

 

[NorthRising]

Yeah I made do with the old block for a while longer than intended, but the split in the old block was never going to get any smaller; amazing what productivity the windy not very warm weather can induce.... sanded and re-varnished the tiller too.