New Draco 2500 TC

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Draco_Chris

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New Draco 2500 TC - Bristol

Hi All,
Just purchased an 82 Draco 25 with twin 470 mercruisers. She needs some work, mainly cosmetic things, which I can deal with but electrical and mechanical advice/tips would be greatly welcomed and appreciated.

I've heard these are quite rare boats. Is that true?

Cheers
Chris
 
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I have an 87 Draco 24 With a 350 Magnum which I have totally restored. It looks completely original but has a lot of electronics inc chart, depth and autopilot and Mente Marine auto flaps. its a fantastic boat and in all the years I have worked on boats I haven't seen a 24 footer which has more. I know the style is a dated but for me thats the charm, its like having a classic car rather than a bland piece of modern white plastic which I can gaurantee won't be as shiny in 2-3 yrs as my boat is 31 yrs on, the quality of the plastic is amazing, I don't use a machine just once round with a cloth each year.
I have repowered every version of Draco numbering around 25 repowers so know them inside out. I once pulled out two 3 liter petrols and installed two Mercruiser 1.7 diesels on a 25TC and it did 42 knots! I have the original wiring and plumbing schemes for most models so if you need any help just let me know. There was a guy here in Norway that made new decal sets for them and it gave my boat a real facelift.
Draco was the largest producer of grp boats in europe in their hayday, they are many here in Scandinavia, but probably less in the UK, although Poole Power Boats now Sunseeker were the importer back then. I am glad the name has made a revival being reintroduced by Windy which were produced by the same factory in Arendal on the south coast of Norway.
 
Hi Spannerman.
I actually need a new harness for the port engine and generally all the electrics need updating.
This is my first boat so I have no idea where to start with regard to restoring it etc.
This weekend I will rip out the old nasty carpet and head lining and get that replaced, then I'll sand and paint the interior wood panels.
It currently has no radio, satnav or other tech which I would like to install but again don't know what to get. (taking into account my small budget)
The side perspex windows on the deck look terrible so they will need replacing.. Generally lots to do when I think about it!

I could do with an experienced eye to look over the boat to be honest.

Cheers
Chris
 
Perhaps you should add your location. Someone may be willing to offer an opinion if they are local.
 
Draco_Chris said:
I'm based in Bristol and the boat is moored in the centre just outside Bordeaux Quay.
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I'm on the East coast, so no use to you, but would have happily helped if closer. Perhaps one of our Bristol Channel based crew can help out?
 
Had a Draco 2000DC for the last 16 years, until I sold her last year, fully restored, and replaced it with a Fjord 815, and also proceeded to rip that apart and rebuild it. For lots of useful Draco info try these sites below:

www.horizonblue.dk Use google translator as it's in Danish. Contact Per Anderson. I have found him very helpful and accommodating. There is also a history of Draco on his website.
There is also www.dracofan.no, but I think they have migrated to a facebook site. Draco enthusiasts forum. Also there are plenty of 'You Tube' videos available.

Good luck with the restoration!

They are lovely boats, and very seaworthy, having been raced in the Cowes-Torquay-Cowes in the 70's and the Baltic powerboat races.
 
Sorry, just seen post 3. Just take your time dismantling, you will find it will all unscrew, and you will get good at removing old brass screws. Be careful as the teak veneers on the panels can be thin and if you use mechanical means will go through them. I personally used a 'Mouse' sander which is kinder and you have more control, when done use Danish oil, not varnish, as these boats originally had a satin/matt finish to the woodwork, although if you look at some of the 'extreme nordic' makeovers, most are all highly varnished. Having said all that, of course, the choice is yours.
 
Thanks for the info it's definitely going to make things easier.
One question I have; how would I bring the Hull back to a lovely bright finish? I think the previous owner "t-cutted" it to death so I don't think that's an option. Can I get it resprayed/re-enabled? I'm assuming the cost will be high.
 
Depends on how bad. Try Mc Guires cutting compound (available from Halfords), lots of elbow grease. then wash and buy a pot of Y10 gel from your local chandler. Apply all over the hull and leave for 5 - 10 minutes (do the hull in secions) and then wash off with soap and water. this will take most, or all of the brownish staining out of the hull, as I suspect it is an 'Ivory White' or creamy colour. After which, you can polish and buff. This is how I did mine as ,it too was in a 'chalky' state when I got her. After about the 4th season it was like a mirror, to the point that when trailed, it would reflect the white lines in the road! T Cut only compounds the problem, and over time makes the hull look 'browner'
 
spannerman said:
Yes I'll check if I have those documents and if so will email them to you.
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Hi spanner man, I've recently bought a 25tc and the years haven't been kind regards bodged wiring etc so it all needs doing again, is there any chance you could share any diagrams you may have for plumbing and electrical etc, kinds regards Craig
 
Exciting project. Really recommend you plan (check parts availability) and make budget for each phase as costs have a nasty habit of creeping upwards when dealing with boaty stuff. Not many were sold with Fresh Water Cooling so chances are yours are sea water cooled: Look out for corrosion in water jackets (especially exhaust manifolds/raisers) and connections.

The MerCruiser 470 began production in 1976. It was a 3.7-liter inline four-cylinder engine that produced 170 horsepower, a powerful alternative to the 160- and 165-horsepower six-cylinder Mercury engines. The 470 featured a cast aluminum engine block designed by Mercury Marine, the name Kiekhaefer's company had taken in 1969, and the block was mated with an iron cylinder head from the Ford 460 V-8 engine. The same engine block was used in several other MerCruiser engines, including the 170, 190, 485 and 488.

The popular 470 was not without its problems. Its water pump is cam-driven and the pump's seals tend to develop leaks over time. Replacing the seals before a leak can allow the coolant to contaminate the engine oil is critical, or the resulting repair can be costly. Problems with the alternator overheating and eventually burning out are also common, and replacing the original alternator with a more reliable model used on other Mercury sterndrive engines is recommended.

Original Draco 2500 Twincab brochure for you.

Facefook group about the engine

Service Manual (online)
 
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Mk1madness said:
Hi spanner man, I've recently bought a 25tc and the years haven't been kind regards bodged wiring etc so it all needs doing again, is there any chance you could share any diagrams you may have for plumbing and electrical etc, kinds regards Craig
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Hi Craig sorry for th late reply the post had slipped off screen, I have a basic plumbing diagram for a 25 ft but can’t find the electrical diagram but will check. If you still need them pm me with your email address. Steve
 
Draco_Chris said:
Thanks for the info it's definitely going to make things easier.
One question I have; how would I bring the Hull back to a lovely bright finish? I think the previous owner "t-cutted" it to death so I don't think that's an option. Can I get it resprayed/re-enabled? I'm assuming the cost will be high.
Click to expand...

If it’s REALLY bad, try 2000 grade wet and dry paper on a block with water and washing up liquid - the wash up liquid acts as a lubricant - and try a less well seen part first. Don’t go mad. It should go dull and flat, then use a fine cutting compound and an electric buffer followed by a good quality marine polish - that should work....
 
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