New diesel tank

[sailor211]

looks like we need a new diesel tank.

130 l rectangular tank approx 690 x 400 x 740mm l x w x d

existing has sump and drain in the base

feed from the bottom of one side

38 mm filler tube, vent tube, and dip stick.


other than a inspection hatch to allow cleaning and inspection should i do anyting else than just copy what there, Its in a locker and will lift out.


Flat bottom with feed 20 mm higher than drain? to allow for water

which is best - Sight gauge or mechanical level indicator?


If the feed comes from the top as some modern tanks do does the filters get primed. Current garvity feed is little work to bleed the system

Material?

Plastic would last for ever expensive , well tek tanks are!
Is there a sourse of suitable boxes that i can add fittings to ?

Mild steel will last 25 years if we keep water out more if cleaned or treated.

Would stainless be ok or will the lack of oxygen shorten the life.

Anyone with experiance of buying a new tank ?

 

[Leighb]

I had a new stainless tank made as an exact copy for the original alloy tank that had developed pin holes.

AFAIK there is no problem with using stainless, it is probably heavier than plastic though.

 

[CJU]

We had a s/s replacement made for old 10 gal mild steel one by a local non marine fabricator. He cut off all the old fittings and welded them on to the new tank and made a good job of it. Cost about £200.

 

[Tranona]

Don't think you will find a ready made tank with those dimensions so it will have to be custom made. best material is plastic as Tek Tanks use, but you might find a fabricator who will make a stainless tank a bit cheaper. I have had 3 tanks made - two holding and one water (but no different in principle from a fuel tank) and in each case there was little difference in quotes between plastic and stainless.

 

[NormanS]

Sounds as if your existing tank ticks most of the boxes. My tanks also have sumps with drain valves. I have thin, clear plastic hoses attached to the drain valves, which are used to drain off any crud into a wee bucket. These clear hoses are also used as a rudimentary form of sight glass, when held up against marks, which correspond to every 20 litres. Obviously they are normally left drained. Deep, narrow tanks are always going to be better than broad, shallow tanks.

My present boat has stainless tanks, but my previous boat had mild steel tanks, which I made, and were still going strong after more than 30 years.

 

[oldsaltoz]

have you considered a closed cell foam and epoxy resin/cloth tank?

No rust ever, the foam provides some insulation and reduces condensation in the tank, easy to repair if it ever needed it.
Could be a nice winter (indoor) project).


Good luck and fair winds.

 

[sailor211]

Thanks for the input. I will do a sketch today and have a chat to local fabricators.

 

[PetiteFleur]

Why not buy an 'off the shelf tank' from the likes of Vetus, Tektanks and others. I fitted a 90 litre tank to replace a much larger rusty steel one. Capacity is fine, I can have over 24hrs motoring if I have to, but carry 2x10 litres cans as well. And it will be MUCH cheaper than having an identical one made by Tektanks. Incidently there is a similar fabricator near Ipswich who is cheaper than Tektanks.

 

[vyv_cox]

A tank made from mild or stainless steel will last forever if there is no water in it or lying around outside it. If the sump is drained regularly and there are no supporting external lips that could trap water there will be no problem with either material.