Interesting but? If an engine is not fitted with a cold start aid does it not imply it should not be necessary? What I thought couple of seasons ago was a cold start problem was in fact a compression problem caused by a leaking exhaust valve. I find my Volvo starts well even after the long winter lay-up. Genuinely interested in others' observations - defining cold start as UK normal sailing conditions March - November.
Interesting but? If an engine is not fitted with a cold start aid, does it not imply it should not be necessary? (Excuse excess of negatives!) What I thought couple of seasons ago was a cold start problem was in fact a compression problem caused by a leaking exhaust valve. I find my Volvo starts well even after the long winter lay-up. Genuinely interested in others' observations - defining cold start as UK normal sailing conditions March - November.
My 2003 starts OK but it does generally need a fair few turns to get the first kick ( say 10 to 15 secs with finger on the button ). I always thought that it was the fuel that had perhaps dropped back a bit and taking a bit of pumping to reach the engine but this may be nonsense ! I have tried the 'cold start' routine of a single pull ( and push ) of the STOP control but I never found this to be very effective. I do think that the starting is worse in cold/damp days or after longer periods without use. How does this new system work ? How is it fitted ? and how much does it cost ? If anyone has any tips on starting a 2003, I would be interested in feedback. I do little maintenance to my engine each year but at minimum I do change sump and gear oil each year. The engine is 12 years old and has not given any problems to date but perhaps it is time for a professional service ?
Operating the stop control with the throttle open sends the pump rack to excess fuel for cold starting. The throttle must be open for this to work. These engines 2002-2003 are well known for poor starting due to bore glazing caused by light loading. The glow plug kit gives an extra aid before you spend in excess of £2500 on a rebuild. If you also use a straight 30 grade running oil, It could be a permanant solution.
Ouch! Sorry about the multiple entries which seem to have started with me! Yes, using stop to open rack is essential when cold and I find effective. Since overhauling exhaust valve and sorting compression I certainly would not expect anything like 15 secs to start. Thanks comment re glazing of bore - had suspected as much. Presume same applies to single pot 2001?
Used to have a share in a boat with a 2002. The boat was used (by me at least) all year round, and on a cold Jan or Feb morning it was a bit of a struggle to get going. Basically everything works against you. i.e. the oil is thick, battery output reduced and compression temperatures are difficalt to achieve. The "over fueling" cold start system certainly helps, however I found that it was much easier if I decopressed one of the cylinders first, and started on one cylinder only. The reduced load on the starter meant it turned over much quicker and started quite easily on one cylinder. Once up and running the other cylider could be recompressed and brought into action. My local Volvo agent confirmed that there was no problem with doing this.