New calorifier install (with pics)

[alt]

This isin't a patch on some of the photo projects that we are used to here, but it may be of interest to some.

We use our boat A LOT. We also shower a lot and wash the dishes... a lot! So, a lot of hot water is essential. Our old calorifier was fine for 1 night, but at times we found ourselves running out of hot water as we use so much. We normally just pull out the portable genny and run it for a while to heat up water (if we aren't moving the boat, hence no engines running to heat water). So, out with the old and in with the new. Our old calorifier was 22 - 25l, this one is 65l and has a mixer valve, so will give about 80l of hot water.

It's under here, somewhere!

God bless Cranchi designers, about 3 minutes later we have a huge amount of engine room access. (Note the impeller on top of engine cover - take out your impellers if laying up for the winter, they will last much longer). Excuse the dirt around the edges - this time of year it's impossible to avoid - spring clean happening as soon as the weather improves

Old calorifier in situ - lots of space to install a bigger one

After a lot of cursing, thinking and plumbing, new calorifier in place

I was scratching my head trying to figure out what connectors / elbows etc. I needed. Then I found these pre-made flexible hoses with 15mm push-fit connectors on each end... absolutely perfect and not much more expensive than doing it the traditional way - i'm convinced they were made for my project!

Everything back in place, pressure tested etc. - job complete! Bring on lots of hot water

Apart from usual engine / leg maintenance & compounding/polishing, we are installing a new oven, purchasing 'Spaghetti String' floor matting for the cockpit, replace TV antenna and a few other small jobs. I love this time of year

Old calorifier is on the 'For Sale' forum if anyone wants it.

 

[CharlieAlpha]

One very neat job, what luck/design the frame was in place and big enough. You will now need a bigger genny/invertor to cope with all that extra hairdryer use following the extra hot showers

 

[alt]

One very neat job, what luck/design the frame was in place and big enough. You will now need a bigger genny/invertor to cope with all that extra hairdryer use following the extra hot showers

Yes, the frame is OE and made the job a whole lot easier. I'm guessing it's installed for the calorifier & generator. All I needed to do was make up 2 mounts to go between the OE frame, as the calorifier legs were a little narrower than the frame.

I don't have a built-in genny, just use a Honda suitcase 2Kw. Rarely do I need the genny, only if we don't move all weekend, to charge the batteries. I'm lucky that the other boats we cruise with have genny's so I just throw my lead over to them... like portable shore power

 

[sharpness]

Nice installation, and thanks for posting.
For the push fit connectors, i assume they were 15mm. What make did you use i.e Hep20, speedfit etc. The reason i ask is i want to make a slight alteration to our plumbing which has 15mm plastic pipe, and i've been advised that for push fit connectors you can't interchange between one make and the other.

 

[alt]

Nice installation, and thanks for posting.
For the push fit connectors, i assume they were 15mm. What make did you use i.e Hep20, speedfit etc. The reason i ask is i want to make a slight alteration to our plumbing which has 15mm plastic pipe, and i've been advised that for push fit connectors you can't interchange between one make and the other.

The calorifier manuf. stated that Hep20 & Speedfit would work. Given that I was just connecting the other end to a 15mm plastic pipe, I ordered this: http://www.ie.screwfix.com/15mm-pipe-repair-push-fit.html

This works perfectly, as the length was just right, no faffing about with elbows / connectors / cutting pipes.

Given that Surecal stated that their calorifiers would accept Hep20 & Speedfit, I assume they are interchangable.

To narrow in on your question, I don't see why any type of push-fit connector wouldn't fit on the pipe. Any connectors that I searched for stated that they could connect to either copper or plastic 15mm pipe

 

[sharpness]

Thanks Alt, exactly what i was thinking. The plumbing merchant who was giving me the advice was obviously trying to do a Jedi-mind sales trick on me. Looks like Screwfix here i come

 

[Cashbuyer]

Maybe a daft question, but thinking about doing this job myself, so post timing is great.

How does the calorifier fill initially with cold water. Does it draw automatically from the water tank?

 

[alt]

Thanks Alt, exactly what i was thinking. The plumbing merchant who was giving me the advice was obviously trying to do a Jedi-mind sales trick on me. Looks like Screwfix here i come

I find Screwfix great for bits. Not the cheapest, but no-nonsense and I got delivered to Ireland in 3 days.

Maybe a daft question, but thinking about doing this job myself, so post timing is great.

How does the calorifier fill initially with cold water. Does it draw automatically from the water tank?

What you are doing is bleeding/purging the system.. very easy. This is how I did it.....
Fill your cold water tank up (I had it empty as it's winter)
When full, open the taps (both hot and cold) on all appliances (but esp the highest on the boat).
Turn on water pump.
Soon after, the cold water will have bled. So, close the cold water taps. Now, obviously the hot water will have lots of air to get rid of (as the calorifier is empty) - So, leave the hot taps open... you will hear the air p1ss out of it.... eventually water will come through... viola! system is now 100% functional

(Then begin to drain the whole system again because it's winter) - I performed this test to check there were no leaks today.

 

[BartW]

neat Job N !

your report makes it look very easy, but I can imagine that there was a lot of swearing ;-)

what is the white tube for, twith that "no step" sign ?

 

[Mike k]

Could you describe the connectors on the calorifier that the push fit connectors attached too?

 

[prv]

what is the white tube for, twith that "no step" sign ?

Low-power 240v heater to prevent condensation, freezing, etc. Quite commonly used in sheds, greenhouses, etc over here.

Pete

 

[alt]

neat Job N !

your report makes it look very easy, but I can imagine that there was a lot of swearing ;-)

what is the white tube for, twith that "no step" sign ?

'No Step sign' - As mentioned below, it's a low wattage tube heater that is safe to be left on 24 hours. I have a thermostat in the engine bay set to 3 degrees celcius, there are 2 of these low-wattage tube heaters to keep the engines safe, in the event of frost. I drain the engines, but the heat is nice to keep the engine bay nice and dry over the winter.

Given your boating is in nice warm climates, you'll have no use for them

Yes, it looked like an easy job, and to be fair, it wasn't a very hard task. The physical installation was easy, thanks to having LOTS of space to play with. Getting the old one out was a little tricky as it was hard to get to nuts & bolts holding the unit down. Again, nuts & bolts to secure the new one was a little tight to get to. My main issue was my lack of plumbing knowledge but a little research and everything was OK... all works, no leaks

Could you describe the connectors on the calorifier that the push fit connectors attached too?

Plain, boring 15mm copper (or are they brass) pipes coming out of the calorifier. The push-fit connectors just push and fit right onto them

See here the cold feed inlet pipe:

 

[scubaman]

Nice job, N!

Just one observation if I may. I don't know how flexible the flexible hose is but i wonder if it wobbles in a chop? If so it could slowly damage the rigid part?

 

[alt]

Nice job, N!

Just one observation if I may. I don't know how flexible the flexible hose is but i wonder if it wobbles in a chop? If so it could slowly damage the rigid part?

Hi, K

I don't think it will be an issue, the rigid hose can turn in its connector no problems, it's designed to. However, I will keep an eye on it... new rigid pipe would cost very little if that issue ever came up.

 

[Mike k]

'No Step sign' - As mentioned below, it's a low wattage tube heater that is safe to be left on 24 hours. I have a thermostat in the engine bay set to 3 degrees celcius, there are 2 of these low-wattage tube heaters to keep the engines safe, in the event of frost. I drain the engines, but the heat is nice to keep the engine bay nice and dry over the winter.

Given your boating is in nice warm climates, you'll have no use for them

Yes, it looked like an easy job, and to be fair, it wasn't a very hard task. The physical installation was easy, thanks to having LOTS of space to play with. Getting the old one out was a little tricky as it was hard to get to nuts & bolts holding the unit down. Again, nuts & bolts to secure the new one was a little tight to get to. My main issue was my lack of plumbing knowledge but a little research and everything was OK... all works, no leaks


Plain, boring 15mm copper (or are they brass) pipes coming out of the calorifier. The push-fit connectors just push and fit right onto them

See here the cold feed inlet pipe:

Thanks very much Alt- good job BTW

Mike

 

[T1ony]

did you put plastic inserts in the hep 2o before you made the connection????

 

[alt]

did you put plastic inserts in the hep 2o before you made the connection????

The plastic inserts went into the 15mm plastic piping, not the connector. Although I am aware that some connectors compensate for this with built-in inserts, which you remove if inserting copper piping.

 

[T1ony]

well done some people don't put the inserts into the plastic pipe and end up with a leak, just thought I was helping.