New 12v fridge to replace 3 way - Isotherm/ENGEL/WAECO/Shoreline

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daboss_uk

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Morning

Looking to replace the old 3 way unit as removing the gas system, have been looking at these models below and wondering what peoples thoughts are please.
These are a fair amount of ££ so defo don't want to purchase the wrong type/poor model etc


ENGEL SB47F - http://www.mps-trading.co.uk/engel-sb47f-12v-upright-fridge-/-freezer~72

SHORELINE RR102W - http://www.shoreline-marine.co.uk/fridges/special-offers/narrow-rr102w

Isotherm Cruise 65 - http://www.force4.co.uk/739/Isotherm-Cruise-65-fridge---65-Litres.html

Waeco CR-110 CoolMatic - http://www.marinesuperstore.com/item/99044015/waeco-cr-0110-e-cabinet-fridge-freezer

After much reading i'm drawn to the Isothern units with maybe the AUS unit but they are very expensive with the added AUS device...

Help appreciated

Cheers
 
I changed my 65L Electrolux antique for an Isotherm ASU 85L 6 months ago.
Can't fault the Isotherm, the extra 20L makes a huge difference and the power consumption is half of the Waecos etc.
But then I bought an 'intelligent' fridge to cram more Guinness in ......

Beware prices though, I was quoted over £1000 for a 65L ASU but I ended up paying £849 for the 85L ASU.
 
Cheers Tom, what is the wattage of that 85L unit?, assume @ max 2.5 amps so 10 watts?, do you have link to supplier ( PM if issue regards posting links, new user you see ) thanks
 
I've just been through exactly the same predicament, to replace an ageing Electrolux 3 way fridge with a more modern alternative.

I also considered all the options you mentioned (although different size).

The process I went through was:-
1. Measure the size of the space you have available. In two ways: Maximum with some chopping about, and easy fit / straight replacement
2. What fridges are available in the size most closely resembling the space you have? That eliminates several from the list
3. What is the price, power consumption and features of the fridges that will fit?

In my case I ended up with an Isotherm Cruise 85. It was the best package for our use - close dimensions to the old one but much deeper so giving more internal space. More points I learned, which may help you and save time:-

- Waeco / Dometic: Easily available and quite a bit cheaper than Isotherm. Big freezer compartment, rated at minus 18deg C. But we wouldn't use a freezer as big as that on the boat, so were happier with the one on the Isotherm which has a freezer that only goes to minus 6 but that's enough for our needs. Also saves energy as a result. Waeco reputation for being quite power hungry (relatively speaking).
- Isotherm. Expensive and relatively hard to obtain. They're not stocked anywhere (because there are so many variations and options) so you can't get to see one until you've bought it. Tend to be fitted as OEM on all new boats, that says something. Certainly all the boats I saw at the boat show in Sept had Isotherm. Don't go for the ASU, that's now considered quite old technology although I was seriously considering it too at first. It doesn't hold a stable temperature in the fridge (esp in the freezer compartment). Latest thinking is to get a Smart Energy Controller instead. Uses the contents of the fridge as the cold energy store, saves up to 30-50% compared with standard version (and certainly compared with Waeco which have the same BD35 compressor). The CR85 was almost exactly the same hole size as our old Electrolux. Designed to be so apparently.
- Shoreline. Great fridges, and British. Marine versions of the Lec domestic fridges. But too tall for my application. And they don't have a door lock, useful in a boat. Otherwise excellent - reliable, efficient and relatively low cost. I would have seriously considered it if the right size been available.
- Engel. I didn't look at these too closely as the sizes weren't right for me. Similar to Waeco I think. Very expensive IIRC and nothing special to recommend them.

One final thing to consider. I agree, marine fridges are extortionately priced. They do try to justify this (stainless fixings etc but really, how much do a few stainless screws really cost?!!) but in the end you have to also factor in how long you intend to keep the boat, and use the fridge and how important it is to you. In the end as we plan to keep the boat for quite a few years yet I decided to go for the right option rather than the cheapest. It's a key bit of kit after all.
Your conclusions may be different of course.

PS I also bought a 150w solar panel to help out with power supply when away from shore power in the summer.
 
Last edited:
daboss_uk said:
Brill, very very helpful indeed. Can i ask the wattage of the 85L unit please ( can't find on-line ) thanks
Click to expand...

See here http://www.indelwebastomarine.com/i...ors/medium-fridges-65-85-l/cruise-85-classic/
Under Technical details.

Uses 380w per 24 h so about 32Ah per 24 hours.
From what I've read the range of 30-50 Ah per 24h seems fairly common.

One thing I forgot to mention was about the Webasto Smart Energy Controller. If you Google it you'll see a YouTube video of how to fit one.
They've carefully employed a woman to do this to subliminally imply it's easy DIY.
Mine's just arrived today so I shall be referring to the video tonight when I have a go at fitting it. I have to take the fridge to the boat this weekend before it comes out of the water on Monday.
It does seem a bit wrong having to drill holes etc in a brand new £700 fridge, but that's the price of having improved efficiency.

As the Waeco fridge uses the same BD35 compressor it should in theory be possible to fit the Webasto Smart Energy controller to the Waeco fridge.
When I was researching this possibility (which would enable savings of around £200, not to be sniffed at) I only came across one reference to this, a US forum thread where someone asked this question but no-one had yet tried it.

If you decide to go for the Waeco for packaging, freezer size and cost reasons it would be worth a punt I reckon.

The only reason why Waecos are considered power hungry is the combination of their minus 18 freezer and crude thermostat / compressor control, from what I can make out.
In all other respects I think insulation thickness etc are similar.

Edit: Found installation manual here: http://www.indelwebastomarineusa.com/Download_area/graphics/17_Download_Area_Manual_Cruise42_130.pdf
A CR85 uses 3.8-4A when compressor is running.
But needs a 15A fuse to allow for surge current. Smart Energy controller also gives it a soft start.
 
Last edited:
daboss_uk said:
Morning

Looking to replace the old 3 way unit as removing the gas system, have been looking at these models below and wondering what peoples thoughts are please.
These are a fair amount of ££ so defo don't want to purchase the wrong type/poor model etc


ENGEL SB47F - http://www.mps-trading.co.uk/engel-sb47f-12v-upright-fridge-/-freezer~72

SHORELINE RR102W - http://www.shoreline-marine.co.uk/fridges/special-offers/narrow-rr102w

Isotherm Cruise 65 - http://www.force4.co.uk/739/Isotherm-Cruise-65-fridge---65-Litres.html

Waeco CR-110 CoolMatic - http://www.marinesuperstore.com/item/99044015/waeco-cr-0110-e-cabinet-fridge-freezer

After much reading i'm drawn to the Isothern units with maybe the AUS unit but they are very expensive with the added AUS device...

Help appreciated

Cheers
Click to expand...

I purchased a Waeco CR4O this year with the controller and very pleased with it, more important it uses little juice and is VERY quiet.
There is a whole range of price 'on line' but my local chandler match the cheapest and I paid £576 for the fridge and £56 for the controller.
Note: The Waeco CR 40 has a remote mountable compressor if required.

Mike
View attachment 45890
 
Trundlebug said:
- Isotherm.. Don't go for the ASU, that's now considered quite old technology although I was seriously considering it too at first. It doesn't hold a stable temperature in the fridge (esp in the freezer compartment).
Click to expand...

Totally agree re the ASU comments, I have been running my Isotherm without the ASU for 3 years now and it uses LESS electricity.

And also you need to consider the criminal price of Isotherm parts, for example look at their price for a Shureflo water pump on their water cooled options then look at the Shureflo site and the ASU, when it goes is costs over $300.

Ok Isotherm rant over!!!

Our No2 boat has an air cooled Waeco system, same DanFoss compressor as the Isotherm and is also very economical on electricity.
 
Have been happy with the 85L ASU, don't know about it being 'old technology' but the fridge has been superb, after 96 hours without shore power or solar (yet) still had ice cubes for the G & T's and very cold Guinness, what more do you need?
I'll look out the specs over the weekend but I distinctly remember 0.8 amps per hour quoted. The remote panel control is a useful feature and, in my opinion, the fridge runs quieter than the other models
The supplier was in Norfolk, again I'll confirm that for you.
 
Supplier was Norfolk Marine http://www.norfolkmarine.co.uk
From the website ...
The patented ASU system has now been available for more than 15 years and has been installed on tens of thousands of boats worldwide. The ASU system always starts the compressor when the engine is running and the power is "free" to chill the holding plate completely. The energy stored in the holding plate will keep the refrigerator cool for many hours. When the engine is stopped, the compressor will not restart until the energy stored in the plate is all but consumed. Only then will the compressor start to run for short periods to maintain the required temperature in the box. The ASU system always uses the stored energy before automatically starting the compressor when the engine is running. With its unique principle of operation - the patented ASU "Automatic Star t Up" system - Isotherm ASU has the advantage over traditional refrigerators

Below is a link to the spec showing 0.8 amps average consumption about 230 watts.
http://www.norfolkmarine.co.uk/product-details/isothermcruisefridges.pdf

For use 'on the hook' I believe it's still the best and most controllable option and, for me, value for money as it has done what it said on the box...
 
tomcourtney said:
... The ASU system always starts the compressor when the engine is running and the power is "free" to chill the holding plate completely...
Click to expand...
Although I don't have a holding plate, I have often considered fitting a relay that bypasses the thermostat when the engine is running, after a short delay. It's on my ever increasing to-do list.
 
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