Need a workshop manual for tohatsu 3.5hp 4 stroke

maej

maej

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Can anyone help me source a workshop manual for a Tohatsu MFS 3.5B 4 stroke?
Or any of the 3.5hp 4 strokes for that matter since they all seem to be basically the same.

I've spent hours hunting for one, nowhere sells them, every link to download one is dead. I emailed a spares place some time ago and they told me Tohatsu had forced them to stop selling them :mad:

Mine's well out of warranty at 7 years old and starting to need more than normal maintenance and servicing. Current problem is the gear lever is seizing, I can get all the parts easily and I know I have to remove the power head to get to it, hence an urgent need for the manual to make sure I don't do something wrong :eek:
 
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Brilliant :) I'd passed them by before as a US subscription service and was concerned about handing my money over to international subscriptions, I didn't realise they did the print manual too, but wow the shipping is almost as much as the manual itself! :eek: Can no one in the UK sell it?

The 3 year subscription manual is the same price as the printed one, do you get more info or detail in the online one?

Thanks :)
 
Thanks again for recommending Seloc, I found the Seloc manual on amazon US for half price in the end, with Amazon prime the delivery was only £10 so 2 weeks time I'll have the manual :)

I managed to get the outboard in gear today with lots of plus gas and force, luckily the lever didn't break, so I can at least use it till I can fix it. Not a fan of having it stuck in gear mind but at least it's usable.
 
maej

Whenever I want a manual for something I always see if I can download it off the internet. I just searched "Download workshop manual for tohatsu 3.5hp 4 stroke"
Here is one you can download for http://www.tohatsu.com/tech_info/own_man_pdfs/Toh_MFS2-5B_3-5B_003-11085-7.pdf
Is that the manual you were chasing or do you want a "Workshop Manual" as opposed to an "Owner's Manual", an "Operator's Manual", or "Repair Manual"?

I found a Tohatsu 3.5 hp outboard on the rubbish tip but couldn't get it going. My Son (a mechanic) found the carburetor needle missing so he modified a carburetor needle out of a Villiers(?) motor and it works fine!

You may not be aware:
"Mercury Marine's primary business is outboard motors. Mercury Outboards, 30 Hp and less, are made by Tohatsu in Japan. Mercury Marine builds 40, 50 and 60 horsepower outboard motors in Suzhou, China. ... Mercury Racing is the company's division for racing engines tailored for power and speed.

Maybe you could look for a Mercury 3.5 HP Workshop Manual?

Clive
 
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Kelly
Yes I came up with the same link but it is for an "Owners Manual". It seems "Owners Manual", "Workshop Manual", "Operation Manual", "Repair Manual" are all used interchangeably. (I know, I do that myself)
 
Hi maej

I had the same problem with our Tohatsu 3.5 4 stroke except that the gear shift was absolutely solid.
I tried soaking the gear shaft with plusgas with no sucsess, after removing the powerhead I then tried drilling some 4mm holes through the alloy casting into the steel shaft (from inside and oustide) and left soaking in plus gas for several weeks. Eventually I managed to get some movement and managed to drive the shaft out. some damaged was done by the drilling so after cleaning all oil out of the shaft tube I made good with "liquid metal" epoxy glue, and redrilled the shaft hole with a slightly oversize drill and cleaned up the steel shaft. I reassembled with very heavy greese.

Putting the powehead back on the leg is more difficult than taking it off however with care I got it back together today !!! and it works fine.

Good luck
 
coopec said:
Kelly
Yes I came up with the same link but it is for an "Owners Manual". It seems "Owners Manual", "Workshop Manual", "Operation Manual", "Repair Manual" are all used interchangeably. (I know, I do that myself)
Click to expand...

Yes I should have been more clear. I have the owners manual that came with the outboard which describes basic operation, what I'm after is a technical manual that describes procedures like removing the powerhead and details torque values etc.
 
Thanks for the advice, from what I've read this is a common problem on these outboards. luckily the shaft did move with a fair bit of force, I hope once I get the power head off and can remove the fastening bolt I will be able to pull/push/prise out the shaft somehow.

Removing the powerhead, is it basically just remove the 7 bolts and lower the leg?
Putting it back together I assume is difficult for lining up the drive shaft and water pipe? Any tips or is it just trial and error?
Is a new gasket needed each time?

Thanks

seadog30 said:
Hi maej

I had the same problem with our Tohatsu 3.5 4 stroke except that the gear shift was absolutely solid...

...Good luck
Click to expand...
 
maej said:
Yes I should have been more clear. I have the owners manual that came with the outboard which describes basic operation, what I'm after is a technical manual that describes procedures like removing the powerhead and details torque values etc.
Click to expand...

I've got a 2007 Service Manual for the Tohatsu 4 stroke MFS 2/2.5/3.5A models, PM me your email address and I'll send you a copy.
 
maej said:
Thanks for the advice, from what I've read this is a common problem on these outboards. luckily the shaft did move with a fair bit of force, I hope once I get the power head off and can remove the fastening bolt I will be able to pull/push/prise out the shaft somehow.

Removing the powerhead, is it basically just remove the 7 bolts and lower the leg?
Putting it back together I assume is difficult for lining up the drive shaft and water pipe? Any tips or is it just trial and error?
Is a new gasket needed each time?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Hi

Not quite as simple as removing 7 bolts

1st empty out the oil (don't ask how I know)
Hold the leg in a "workmate" bench
empty and remove petrol tank and rubber fuel pipe at tank end
remove the brown and black wires held by a 10mm bolt
remove the bracket and outboard clamp assy (4 bolts) it makes the 7 powerhead bolts easy to get at.
next - the handbook / manual sugests removing the twist grip cables on the carb however if you release the twist grip / tiller arm from the leg casting ( 2 bolts) it saves the hastle of adjusting the cables.
Undo the 7 bolts and lift the power unit off ( it may need some light levering to free the joint.)

leave the gear shift rod and the water pipes in place, just undo the single screw holding the top of crank to the gear shaft and hold the crank to the top of the gear rod with tape to stop it falling into the leg..

there are two rubber o rings on the gear shaft that effectively stop any oil getting into the tight shaft try gently knocking the shaft in and out as well as twisting it.but note the shaft is quite soft steel and it is easy to put a burr on it.

When you manage to pull the shaft out be carefull not to loose the spring and ball that fits between the casting and the handle.

Clean the hole and shaft and do whatever you need to do tha make the shft work.

I also took the opportunity of cleaning out the waterways.

I could not get hold of a new gasket so I cleaned up the faces and used "gasket glue"/

when putting it back together make sure that the spline on the drive has located in the power unit and the 7 bollts are firmed up equally.

The major problem that I had was refitting the fuel tap, there is a black plastic drive shaft between the tap and the red plastic switch handle, make sure that the assembly is snapped together.

The actual taking appart and reassembly was probaly half a days work, freeing up the shaft ? well that is another story.

Good luck
 
I've just done exactly the same but on a 2.5 HP Mariner (so I think basically the same). The shaft was locked solid and I had to take the casting to a local agri engineer for them to use some serious heat. However, the plastic handle was destroyed in the process.

The new handle and shaft assembly was £60
The new gasket was £40

I agree with seadog's instructions except that I did not remove the petrol tank or the bracket and just worked round them. I also didn't bother emptying the oil.

I also over-drilled the hole and then packed it full of waterproof grease, and my spring shot out and is nowhere to be seen! I've used one from a ball point pen...

Here's the leg complete with new gasket just before the head went back on.

 
With the same stuck gearlever issue I had to waste the lever - the flexible plastic covering made the application of proper impact to loosen impossible - so with a new lever and O rings I also drilled and tapped the casing for an M4 machine screw and locknut to allow the future introduction of light oil or even hot water .Not necessarily good for the O rings but at least a way in to the void between them that was solid with white powder.
 
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