Need a new anchor connector

mikeG

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The anchor connector joining our 17Kg CQR to 8mm chain on our Bav.34 is looking slightly the worse for wear and has some splaying at the chain end of the connector. I am looking to buy a replacement and am wondering about getting one of the stainless double swivel types, on the market for about half the price of the 8>10 mm single galvanised. I can't find my edition of YM for May 2006 /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif which reported on anchor connectors so can't look up their reccomendations... can anyone help or advise? Cheers, Mike.
 

Aja

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You will find that if you attach a stainless swivel to a galvanised chain something will go. Most likely the galvanising on the chain.

You can get galvanised swivels of course.

Donald
 

johnalison

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Have heard of at least one swivel parting (at the angle of the jaws) and wouldn't use one unless I had no choice. A shackle works fine for us - 45lb CQR + galvanised.
 

johnphilip

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Aja is right. I put a stainless connector on a fairly old anchor and chain and was amazed how quickly the first 2 or 3 links of the chain corroded. Get Galvanised if you need this connector to fit your bow roller or use a shackle.
 

jwilson

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In 40 years I've never used anything but a shackle. Fancy 'anchor connectors' that swivel look like a weak point to me, as well as being expensive.

Are you really going to leave the boat anchored on a single anchor so long that it makes enough complete turns to wind up a chain?
 

jerryat

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[ QUOTE ]
Aja is right. I put a stainless connector on a fairly old anchor and chain and was amazed how quickly the first 2 or 3 links of the chain corroded. Get Galvanised if you need this connector to fit your bow roller or use a shackle.

[/ QUOTE ]

That's interesting. I've used straight s/s connectors (i.e.non-swivelling) for many, many years and never seen any undue corrosion. In nearly tens years full time cruising and hundreds of anchorings, I would have thought I'd have seen some evidence of that.

The links at the attachment point of our main bower anchor have been there for 11 years now and show only the same degree of (very minor) corrosion as the rest of the first few feet i.e. hardly any rust at all!
 

hylass

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FixaHylas2.jpg
 

mikeG

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Thanks for that everyone....Must admit I'd been thinking about the galvanic reaction and more or less come around to getting another galvanized one already. I do think a connector helps the lump ride on to the bow roller better tho'. Cheers for the offer Galadriel but think that mag must be up at the boat ( my family call 'em my boat porn! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif)!!
 

GMac

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Hi-load shackles, WLL is with a 6:1 safety margin i.e if the WLL is 1000kg the break load will exceed 6000kg.

They are not calibrated, you don't calibrate those.

If you want fully tested versions get Van Besst Green Pins. All the other colours are chinese versions except for some of the red pins (crosby). The chinese ones are fine though.

Use Hylas's idea. It is far superior and don't worry about the stainless on galv, it's more an old wives tale that actual - when used in an anchor system. NEVER use stainless on a permanent mooring though.
 

DaveS

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I've seen pictures of these but never one in the flesh - or steel, I suppose. I understand that they're meant to turn the anchor so that it will always pull up over the roller the right way up. Seems like a nice idea, and I'm sure it works with a clean anchor, but suspect that it might have difficulty if there's a trailing ball of kelp...
 

hylass

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[ QUOTE ]
what size/strength/manufacturer toggle is recommended?

[/ QUOTE ]

You may use one size bigger that the diameter of your chain.

By size, I mean the diameter of the two “pins” : for a 10 mm chain = a 12 mm pin.

Manufacturer: any rigging manufacturer
 

craigsmith

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[ QUOTE ]
I've seen pictures of these but never one in the flesh - or steel, I suppose. I understand that they're meant to turn the anchor so that it will always pull up over the roller the right way up. Seems like a nice idea, and I'm sure it works with a clean anchor, but suspect that it might have difficulty if there's a trailing ball of kelp...

[/ QUOTE ]Yep, it works well. We're impressed. I'm not sure that a small amount of fouling would be much of an issue, there's a large amount of leverage from the anchor pressing the connector onto the roller, so it'd have to be fairly chunky kelp to not flatten out and allow it to work.

Some more pics of it in action:

Anchor the wrong way round...
roller-righter-1.jpg


Still the wrong way round...
roller-righter-2.jpg


...right way round!...
roller-righter-3.jpg

(see how the chain's not too twisted either)

Home:

roller-righter-4.jpg


[ QUOTE ]
where do I get one Craig?
like the simplicity and can see how it would work well with my set up.

[/ QUOTE ]I couldn't help you in the UK sorry - try phoning some chain and rope suppliers and see if you can get anywhere. GMac may be able to point you in the right direction too.
 

GMac

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I get them from Italy.

Don't look for a crowd called 'Brevettato', the name on the Straighteners, it's actually Italian for patented.

Right to the beasts in question and in the land of the jellied eel, how do you eat those things....yuck yuck yuck. I've a English gent (???) working for me and the offal he eats............. blaaaaaa

Anywho....

http://www.boatgeardirect.co.uk/id25.html

Ask them if the chain they have is Maggi, I think it is and it's great stuff if you need any.

I don't know this crowd at all. I'm just a sad bloke who can recognise who made a chain in web photos. I must get out more /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

DON'T use the rope to chain connector (shown on same page as straightener) on a winch, something will be killed.
 

discovery2

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Like this idea a lot - but having browsed the rigging components in chandleries & catalogues, I cannot find the required components.
Can you advise specifically the components required - apart from split pins & washers (being a mobo I am not familiar with specific rigging terms).
Thanks
 
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