G
Guest
Guest
A few months ago I sought help about a deceased Navico speed log on this forum.
One reply directed me towards the transducer innards. (The display head seemed
to work and the black interface box contains little in the way of active ingredients
likely to go wrong.) I had the transducer X-rayed by a helpful technician and found
that this contained precisely 3(three) things - a small capacitor, a resistor and the
reed switch at the tip, under the rotating magnets of the paddle wheel. Spurred on
by the replacement cost of around $200 I gritted my teeth and went to work.
Initially I attacked from the bottom of the tip cavity and exposed the reed switch,
using a Dremel burr, but couldn't really see what I was doing so finally took a deep
breath and a hacksaw and decapitated the thing at the beginning of the rectangular
section. This cut through the two leads to the switch, leaving the resistor and capacitator
embedded in the resin proximally. The switch was then easy to remove. A local electronic
store yielded a generic reed switch which I epoxied in place and attached to the exposed
RC network leads with a couple of pieces of short flexible wire.
Then the whole was cobbled back together using generous quantities of thickened West System
epoxy over some brass screws and while it isn't quite as pretty as before it does WORK!!
Cost? about $10. So be of brave heart and give it a go!
One reply directed me towards the transducer innards. (The display head seemed
to work and the black interface box contains little in the way of active ingredients
likely to go wrong.) I had the transducer X-rayed by a helpful technician and found
that this contained precisely 3(three) things - a small capacitor, a resistor and the
reed switch at the tip, under the rotating magnets of the paddle wheel. Spurred on
by the replacement cost of around $200 I gritted my teeth and went to work.
Initially I attacked from the bottom of the tip cavity and exposed the reed switch,
using a Dremel burr, but couldn't really see what I was doing so finally took a deep
breath and a hacksaw and decapitated the thing at the beginning of the rectangular
section. This cut through the two leads to the switch, leaving the resistor and capacitator
embedded in the resin proximally. The switch was then easy to remove. A local electronic
store yielded a generic reed switch which I epoxied in place and attached to the exposed
RC network leads with a couple of pieces of short flexible wire.
Then the whole was cobbled back together using generous quantities of thickened West System
epoxy over some brass screws and while it isn't quite as pretty as before it does WORK!!
Cost? about $10. So be of brave heart and give it a go!
