My New Project: 19' Hurley Alacrity 'Artful'

[kylemccann]

I recently became the owner of my very first boat, exciting times but what on earth have I let myself in for!

I believe she is a 19 foot Hurley Alacrity. I can certainly tell you she ain't pretty and her name is Artful. I hope to bring her back to life and maybe she'll help me unleash my inner artist :ambivalence: Her paint is faded and her interior is rotten but I'm hoping her hull is sound. My first priority is to get her cleaned up a little and slightly more weather tight than she currently is.

Are there any members on here with an Alacrity, where are the main points I should be working on to try and dry her out? I am working on replacing her rotten cockpit lids however I am not sure how to provide a seal between the plywood and the fibreglass. Theres a groove / channel which looks like perhaps it could accommodate some rubber weather shielding?

I have also started my first blog to document my progress and mistakes, you can find it here http://sailingartful.blogspot.co.uk/ I could do with some readers as I'm sure I'm currently rambling to myself

 

[Seajet]

Hi Kylemccann,

welcome to the forums.

Yes you've got a fair bit of work there, but nothing too tricky; I'd strongly resist the urge to strip out everything, especially with winter approaching.

I'd tidy her up and then attack one bit at a time, probably starting with the main hatch washboards then cockpit locker lids.

I couldn't see the seal channel by the lids which you mention, but there is very useful stuff called ' Hatchseal Tape ', about 19mm wide, 2mm thick neoprene, self adhesive one side.

It comes in rolls for about £10 at chandlers, I'll see if i can locate it in a minute.

For seagoing use the hatches need to be pulled down tight onto it with clips, but at the least it should help a lot duting your refit.

I don't know if you have googled ' Alacrity ' to see if there's an owner's association ?

Otherwise lots of people on here with fairly similar vintage & type boats with transferrable ideas & tips.

Good luck and keep dreaming, one day you'll be setting off under blue skies.

Here's the stuff I mentioned;

http://www.force4.co.uk/force-4-hatch-seal-tape-3mx19mmx6mm.html?sqr=hatch seal tape&#.Vjihtm7NSSo

 

[duncan99210]

There's an active Hurley Owners Association. Search for it via Google and you can join online. There's also a Yahoo group which is perhaps a better information exchange as well as the Association. Lots of info on the Association website that you'll get access to if you join (£10 a year IIRC).

 

[TC Tuckton]

I had a Vivacity 20, 18 inches longer than the Vivacity 18.
Lovely boat but prone to window leaks even after replacing the H seal. Possibly because the GRP thickness varied around the window opening.

I cut 8mm perspex sheet to the size of the window openings +15mm then bedded it onto sealant with multiple self tapping screws through predrilled (slightly oversized) holes in the perspex and slightly undersized holes in the GRP around the window opening.
It worked.

 

[kylemccann]

Hi Kylemccann,

welcome to the forums.

Yes you've got a fair bit of work there, but nothing too tricky; I'd strongly resist the urge to strip out everything, especially with winter approaching.

I'd tidy her up and then attack one bit at a time, probably starting with the main hatch washboards then cockpit locker lids.

I couldn't see the seal channel by the lids which you mention, but there is very useful stuff called ' Hatchseal Tape ', about 19mm wide, 2mm thick neoprene, self adhesive one side.

It comes in rolls for about £10 at chandlers, I'll see if i can locate it in a minute.

For seagoing use the hatches need to be pulled down tight onto it with clips, but at the least it should help a lot duting your refit.

I don't know if you have googled ' Alacrity ' to see if there's an owner's association ?

Otherwise lots of people on here with fairly similar vintage & type boats with transferrable ideas & tips.

Good luck and keep dreaming, one day you'll be setting off under blue skies.

Here's the stuff I mentioned;

http://www.force4.co.uk/force-4-hatch-seal-tape-3mx19mmx6mm.html?sqr=hatch seal tape&#.Vjihtm7NSSo

I have made a start on the Drop boards, they were in saveable conditions they just need a few more coats of varnish. I am in the process of making up new hatch lids as the old ones were totally rotten. I will try and post a picture of the channel next time Im on board. But that Hatchseal tape which I previously didnt know the name of looks like it may just do the trick would you recommend fitting the hatches with hinges or possibly bungying (if thats a word) from the inside of locker.

Thanks for the help!

 

[kylemccann]

TC I think a previous owner must have carried out this change, however I think I may need to re-seal as the silicone is possibly leaking.

 

[TC Tuckton]

Leak with externally applied perspex window.

I would try Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure first. (£8 from Gael Force Marine) It is a very runny liquid dispensed from a small plastic bottle with a nozzle. You can access the top half of the perspex/GRP join from outside and the lower half from inside.

Good luck with the project!

 

[William_H]

That looks like a fine little boat. Just the wood work needs attention. It certainly would be a more fun project if you could get it home for the winter. Don't get to stressed about rain leaks mine has always leaked. Just do what you can. You would be well advised to replace the stay wires before sailing as these can let go without warning after 20 odd years sometimes less. When they let go it usually breaks the mast.
Other wise just get it together and go sailing. It does not have to be perfect in looks.
You might want to get an outboard motor for it. Makes life easier when learning to sail. Just enjoy olewill

 

[Seajet]

I have made a start on the Drop boards, they were in saveable conditions they just need a few more coats of varnish. I am in the process of making up new hatch lids as the old ones were totally rotten. I will try and post a picture of the channel next time Im on board. But that Hatchseal tape which I previously didnt know the name of looks like it may just do the trick would you recommend fitting the hatches with hinges or possibly bungying (if thats a word) from the inside of locker.

Thanks for the help!

Hi,

for securing the new locker lids I would use hinges and the sort of clips which have an over-centre action, so they pull the lid down reasonably tight onto whatever rubber seal you fit.

These catches can also take a padlock, handy when you get her equipped.

Be a bit careful with hinges, if you can source them there are some good slightly chunky plastic ones around with stainless hinge pins - a lot of brass hinges seem a good idea but have nasty mild steel pins, so they soon seize up.

However you do it, the lids must be secure and unable to float away or get knocked off if the weather goes hectic - being suddenly left with a big hole which will let a huge amount of water in ( even just into a locker let alone the whole cabin ) is to be avoided...

For tasty stainless steel fastenings try googling

' Protex fasteners '

- tasty prices too but you generally only fit such things once, and they have a huge range of various ways of clipping stuff.

 

[kylemccann]

Leak with externally applied perspex window.

I would try Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure first. (£8 from Gael Force Marine) It is a very runny liquid dispensed from a small plastic bottle with a nozzle. You can access the top half of the perspex/GRP join from outside and the lower half from inside.

Good luck with the project!

Thanks TC! I never knew anything like this existed, Its amazing the wealth of knowledge that i've already experienced on this forum

That looks like a fine little boat. Just the wood work needs attention. It certainly would be a more fun project if you could get it home for the winter. Don't get to stressed about rain leaks mine has always leaked. Just do what you can. You would be well advised to replace the stay wires before sailing as these can let go without warning after 20 odd years sometimes less. When they let go it usually breaks the mast.
Other wise just get it together and go sailing. It does not have to be perfect in looks.
You might want to get an outboard motor for it. Makes life easier when learning to sail. Just enjoy olewill

William, is it easy to replace them? and how do I go about sourcing them

Hi,

for securing the new locker lids I would use hinges and the sort of clips which have an over-centre action, so they pull the lid down reasonably tight onto whatever rubber seal you fit.

These catches can also take a padlock, handy when you get her equipped.

Be a bit careful with hinges, if you can source them there are some good slightly chunky plastic ones around with stainless hinge pins - a lot of brass hinges seem a good idea but have nasty mild steel pins, so they soon seize up.

However you do it, the lids must be secure and unable to float away or get knocked off if the weather goes hectic - being suddenly left with a big hole which will let a huge amount of water in ( even just into a locker let alone the whole cabin ) is to be avoided...

For tasty stainless steel fastenings try googling

' Protex fasteners '

- tasty prices too but you generally only fit such things once, and they have a huge range of various ways of clipping stuff.

Damn they've got some nice looking hardware! I think that'll need to wait till a later date, dont want the fastening showing up the entire boat :disgust:

 

[ghostlymoron]

The grooves look to me like drainage channels to direct water into the cockpit. If they are, it would be foolish to block them with a rubber seal. You could fit a seperate rubber seal inboard of it. Seals direct would have some suitable stuff.

 

[kylemccann]

You might want to get an outboard motor for it. Makes life easier when learning to sail. Just enjoy olewill

Forgot to mention I purchased a 6hp Tohatsu (Short Shaft sadly). I've wrote a small post about this on my blog Long story short I burned myself by foolishly grabbing a seagull outboard by the shaft. Ouch.

The grooves look to me like drainage channels to direct water into the cockpit. If they are, it would be foolish to block them with a rubber seal. You could fit a seperate rubber seal inboard of it. Seals direct would have some suitable stuff.

I'll have a look and see if this would be possible. Does anyone know what the original Alacrity came fitted with?

 

[kylemccann]

What does everyone recommend for making templates for plywood for the interior. Obviously cardboard would be my first choice but where can I actually get this in a big enough size, relatively cheap?

 

[VicS]

What does everyone recommend for making templates for plywood for the interior. Obviously cardboard would be my first choice but where can I actually get this in a big enough size, relatively cheap?

I guess "template paper" is the smart answer ....................... otherwise brown paper ... preferably "off the roll" rather than folded.

 

[Lon nan Gruagach]

Hi kylemccann, welcome here and to the world of Hurleys. I too got my first boat this year, a Hurley 20 and even though I've only been out fishing with no sail yet its a fantastic thing to have.

If your locker covers are like mine (most likely) then the channel is for drainage and a snug fitting cover with a lip will do mostly, a seal attached to the lid will improve matters without blocking the drainage. Not that the water would have much further to go, just avoid a few (dont listen Mary Berry) soggy bottoms.

For cardboard, try supermarkets and white goods shops, any that deliver and fit will have the boxes returned on the empty truck.

happy new boat.

 

[Seajet]

Lino - yes linoleum floor stuff - is handy for templates I seem to remember, though it would be pot luck to have or find some now I guess.

Cardboard strikes me as a bit innacurate & vague, but I understand supermarkets let one have it if asked.

If the rubber hatch seals are as I now think, try a car motor factor for ' P ' shaped car door seals - when I suggested hatch seal tape I was thinking of a quick fix for the boat ashore against the coming winter; most seals require some sort of clip or pull from beneath to clamp the lid down on the rubber.

 

[graham]

This is the perfect time of year to get large bits of cardboard. bicycles are delivered flat packed in big cardboard boxes to bike shops. Just go in and ask for a cardboard bike box and they will probably ask you how many you want.

the boxes are about 4 foot by 2 foot.

We had an Alacrity once. Great boat , very strong and sails well .
They sit upright on the twin keels but remove the rudder before the tide drops or it will lift off its pintles and float away if your not looking. Ask me how I know this

 

[kylemccann]

I guess "template paper" is the smart answer ....................... otherwise brown paper ... preferably "off the roll" rather than folded.

I've tried google for the like, however not had much luck. I thought brown paper would be a little to thin and flimsy for templating bulkheads etc?

Hi kylemccann, welcome here and to the world of Hurleys. I too got my first boat this year, a Hurley 20 and even though I've only been out fishing with no sail yet its a fantastic thing to have.

If your locker covers are like mine (most likely) then the channel is for drainage and a snug fitting cover with a lip will do mostly, a seal attached to the lid will improve matters without blocking the drainage. Not that the water would have much further to go, just avoid a few (dont listen Mary Berry) soggy bottoms.

For cardboard, try supermarkets and white goods shops, any that deliver and fit will have the boxes returned on the empty truck.

happy new boat.

You got any pictures of your Hurley Dougal for Ideas? Love seeing how others are laid out etc.

Lino - yes linoleum floor stuff - is handy for templates I seem to remember, though it would be pot luck to have or find some now I guess.

Cardboard strikes me as a bit innacurate & vague, but I understand supermarkets let one have it if asked.

If the rubber hatch seals are as I now think, try a car motor factor for ' P ' shaped car door seals - when I suggested hatch seal tape I was thinking of a quick fix for the boat ashore against the coming winter; most seals require some sort of clip or pull from beneath to clamp the lid down on the rubber.

Ah so with those seals I would fit the seal to the fiberglass locker rims instead of the onto the plywood? (sorry it's hard to describe for us new boaters )

This is the perfect time of year to get large bits of cardboard. bicycles are delivered flat packed in big cardboard boxes to bike shops. Just go in and ask for a cardboard bike box and they will probably ask you how many you want.

the boxes are about 4 foot by 2 foot.

We had an Alacrity once. Great boat , very strong and sails well .
They sit upright on the twin keels but remove the rudder before the tide drops or it will lift off its pintles and float away if your not looking. Ask me how I know this

Yes I had actually thought about the supermarkets, unfortunately there is are shortage of bike shops near me.
I think I might be able to get an alternative from work. They cover the bottom of pallets in a cardboard sheet or sometimes some kind of plastic material, which I think might be just the right thickness for making templates. I might have to try and 'borrow' some

 

[dylanwinter]

hardboard is great for templates

or

you can buy storage boxes - which are really well made

 

[William_H]

Regarding replacing the stay wires. You will need a yacht rigger to supply and attach the end fittings.
The best is to remove the wires and deliver to the rigger asking for replacement.
It would be worth raising the mast and checking the length of the existing wires. This way you can get the new wires just right.
Wires come with a loop made in each end and a stainless steel thimble fitted inside the loop. The alternative is that possibly on the bottom there is a threaded rode swaged on. This screws into the turnscrew length adjuster. But there are many different variations on these arrangements. Even DIY fittings but these tend to be expensive.
The original wires probably look fine. If any strands of the 19 strands are broken usually at either end then it definitely needs replacement. However most insurance companies insist on replacement at around 10 years old. They can fail without warning and seem to fail after a number of years regardless of usage.
So while the cost is not insignificant to replace them the cost if one fails is a new mast.
good luck olewill