Moving outboard into a Well

[firstascent]

Hello,

I was woundering if anyone could give me any advise on moving my outboard form a bracket on the transon into a well in the lazarette. The boat is a seal 22. All of th mark 3 boats had this arrangement. I've tried to post onto the seal saling associateon web site forum but had no replys...can any one give me some guiding advice before I try cutting a hole in the bottom of my poor old boat!!

Thanks

Jamie Dunn

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[snowleopard]

to save unnecessary drag you will need to either have the back of the well open or arrange to plug the hole when not motoring. getting the prop out of the water is difficult if the well is enclosed as you won't be able to tilt: this can be got round by using a sliding or hinged transom bracket to allow the motor to move vertically.

your best bet would be to have a close look at one of the later boats.

you should get an improvement in handling, less cavitation in a chop and be able to pivot the motor for close quarters work, well worth the effort.

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[Seal_surfer]

Hi Jamie,

Its a nust do project!
I have a Seal Mk2 that came that has been adapted with a well as you mention. Basically, a square opening was cut in the hull (about 9" sq) starting an 1" aft of the bulhead. 12mm ply panels have been bonded between bulkhead & transom to the full height of the lazarette & sheathed (I suggest using epoxy & appropriate glass for certain results after keying old GRP with sander). The bulkhead can have an inch or two trimmed away to adjust the O/B braket clamping height so that the head wil just clear the Lazarette lid height. This means you have 360 deg steering O/B.. You will need to reinforce the bulkhead with ply/hardwood for clamping. I found I could reshape the lid to give 2 neat lids by trimming & laminating flanged edges into the well. I have made a shaped ply plug that just fits the O/B leg once lowered to minimise turbulence. I am now working on a stainless frame/tracks to lift the O/B clear of water when left on mooring - saves corrosion!

By the way, I found my Tohatsu 5HP longshaft is the ideal length. A stabdard shaft would need to be set further down the well & not be very steerable, but might be easier to raise clear of water.

I recommend getting the Seal22 handbook that has an article/pics of how to fit the GRP conversion kit (probably not now made) & many other useful tips.

Good luck

Phil

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