Most cost effective wood for a tiller?

[lancelot]

Hi.
I plan to change my existing tiller as I have on several occasions reglued the strips of wood.
I thought this time I might make a new tiller from one piece of wood.
I understand I need hard wood, however, I would think the cost of hard wood will be quite high.
Which type would be appropriate?
Fair winds,
Lancelot

 

[Spuddy]

Tiller timber

I used ash for my tiller 5 years ago. The supplier allowed me to have a rummage and select a bit where grain followed the curve I wanted. Advantages are: a native timber so can be cheaper if you persevere when looking for it, absorbs shocks well (hence used for hammer and axe handles), sufficiently durable when used like this.
If you fancy carving turks heads on the end this is no good - use something closed grained like a mahogany.

 

[VicS]

I think mine is ash.

 

[lancelot]

Thanks for the info. I will look into obtaining a piece of ash. Do many timber merchants stock ash. I found some long , what looked like pick axe or long axe shafts, in a farmer type shop. I will compare measurements. Thanks again.
Fair winds,
Lancelot

 

[LONG_KEELER]

I have noticed that many tillers in older boats are made of oak.

Suppose it is because of the strength needed.

 

[Bobobolinsky]

Iroko is about the cheapest hardwood available

 

[john_morris_uk]

Iroko is about the cheapest hardwood available

Goodness - please let me know where you buy cheap Iroko!

I would have classified some Sapele (mahogony substitute) as 'cheaper' hardwoods. Some Sapele is also rubbish, and is very 'feathery' as it is machined, but we digress as I wouldn't suggest it for a tiller.

Ash is more suitable and conveniently is one of the lower priced hardwoods according to http://www.britishhardwoods.co.uk/timber/other-sawn-timbers.php


If you want another price guide then this is an interesting link: http://www.segmentedturning.com/woodcosts.htm

 

[BAtoo]

This chap will make you one....http://www.tonymackillican.co.uk/tillers.htm

May not be cheap though..........

 

[tillergirl]

I think John Morris hits a key point about the quality of whatever you choose. My Iroko tiller snapped at the rudder head about 5/6 years ago. I had a new Ash piece scarfed on which benefits from greater 'spring'. But Ash does need looking after - well all wood does of course.

 

[Searush]

I made a spare for my first boat from a lump of firewood. Mind you, it was a nice piece of oak! If you have a hardwood sawmill in your locality go have a look at the stuff they are throwing away. Venables (Stafford), sadly long since closed, used to sell a car-boot full of "firewood" for a tenner. All I had to do was pick out a suitable lump. Took a while to shape it up, sand it down & polish it, but it looked better than the original when I was done. Very satisfying & I spent nowt but effort.

 

[electrosys]

[...]I thought this time I might make a new tiller from one piece of wood. I understand I need hard wood, however, I would think the cost of hard wood will be quite high.[...]

Imported hardwoods are expensive. However, a piece of old English oak - either as reclaimed timber, or an old fence post - would do the job nicely, without breaking the bank.
Just make sure your shaping tools are sharp ...

 

[Burnham Bob]

I had a local carpenter who was doing some work for us make me a new one to replace the laminated tiller. He used a piece of mahogany he had around, but was careful with the grain as mine was a swan neck type tiller - maybe yours is if its currently a laminated one.

Luckily he was a sailor too so he knew the stresses it would be under. I feel much happier with a solid piece of wood than a laminated tiller as eventually water gets into the laminate - although i must admit the old one was the original that came with the boat.

 

[LONG_KEELER]

If you have the facility to go back in time, you might choose 1987/1988.

Probably the best time to purchases British hardwoods.

Please be nice to weather forecasters though.

 

[Bobobolinsky]

Goodness - please let me know where you buy cheap Iroko!

AC Timbers Ely

 

[Amulet]

Ash is traditional, readily available and not expensive. It is pretty hard to break it by bending, which is why it is favoured. The downside is that it is not durable. It must be sealed with varnish to protect it. It will rot if wet. My original ash tiller only lasted 40 years before it snapped off in my hand and I sailed up the beach. It was rotten inside the rudder stock.

New one is ash and I unbolt it and take a look at what's going on with the hidden bit fairly frequently.

I shouldn't think that enough ash to make a tiller will cost you more than a few quid, so "cost effective" seems easy. If you were close I could find you a bit of ash in my workshop for the price of a pint.

Of all the alternatives discussed oak is your best bet. Wouldn't work with Iroko's lung ripping dust for any money. Legal mahogany doesn't exist, and in any case it is wrong for this task. Its substitutes are just as wrong.

However, my clunky old boat puts pretty serious stresses on the tiller in a blow. Probably a modern, more balanced design is lighter on the helm, and the tiller may be able to concentrate on being pretty rather than strong.

 

[lancelot]

Cost effective wood for a tiller

Hi.
Many thanks again for all the tips and advice. I will shortly visit some timber merchants. Probably ash, however, if a good deal for oak is available, I will go for it.
Fair winds,
Lancelot

 

[RobBrown]

I haven't done it as yet, but have often thought if it came to replacing my laminated tiller (currently holding repair by using Joiners Mate has worked so well so far as to not require it) I would look to see if it could be fashioned from a replacement ash or hickory handle for a large axe or pick, if any such are available- much of the fashioning has already been done, so it seems more of a manageable proposition.

 

[Poignard]

I haven't done it as yet, but have often thought if it came to replacing my laminated tiller (currently holding repair by using Joiners Mate has worked so well so far as to not require it) I would look to see if it could be fashioned from a replacement ash or hickory handle for a large axe or pick, if any such are available- much of the fashioning has already been done, so it seems more of a manageable proposition.

Something like this?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Faithfull-Hickory-Carp-Adze-Handle/dp/B0001IWIBU

 

[Bobobolinsky]

I haven't done it as yet, but have often thought if it came to replacing my laminated tiller (currently holding repair by using Joiners Mate has worked so well so far as to not require it) I would look to see if it could be fashioned from a replacement ash or hickory handle for a large axe or pick, if any such are available- much of the fashioning has already been done, so it seems more of a manageable proposition.

It's good stuff joiners mate, sorry to drift a thread, but what do you use to clean up, or do you just sand off afterwards?

 

[RobBrown]

Yes its a brilliant 2 part adhesive- have to credit Sailorman I think for flagging it up some time ago in a thread on laminated tiller repairs. Great for in situ repairs, as you dont have to take off & clamp etc.

Because of the spray-on activator, I dont tend to get much drip, but I wipe any immediate excess off with white spirits, whilst its still liquid, but that really is a few seconds only, thereafter the only way I have suceeded is w&d sanding. It dries very hard.

Re the adze handle- yes that's the sort of thing I had in mind. I think Hickory is as good as ash in this type of use and should have plenty of strength & resilience for a tiller and the bulk of the hard shaping work is done. The max seems to be around 36", which would prob be long enough. Main issue I thing is the stock. Found them up to 3 1/2 " on axe handles and some of pick handles have a fair amount of bulk at the butt end, but they still don't look full enough for my rudder stock, but I guess laminating something around it if required wouldn't prove too difficult or unsatisfactory. For 10-20 quid, seems worth a go.