Morse Cables: Part Two

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Further to this:

... I'm also wondering about replacing the control cables...
... The length is stamped on the cable...

I decided to measure the cables, as I couldn't see any markings. So how to measure something that has poor access, and bends in awkward places. I cam up with an idea: I found a bit of flexible conduit that had been split, and cut it into a 50cm length. Now I've got a ruler that will follow the curves. Add a marker pen, and all set.

So having done this, and found that the throttle cable is 5m and the gear cable is 5.3m, I remember about the hatch in the side of a cockpit locker that opens below the Morse control. There I find markings, as below:

Morse-Markings_zpsmbpehawe.png~original


The markings say that the throttle cable is 5.25m (cf. 5m measured) and the gear cable is 5.75m (cf. 5.3m measured).

I assume that the difference in lengths is because I measured the cover, and the stamped length is between nipples? If so, I assume I quote the stamped length?
 
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pvb

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The lengths on your cables are the overall lengths, so just buy new ones that length. The ones I replaced a couple of years ago came from the local Volvo Penta dealer - they had stacks of them in all sorts of lengths.
 
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Time to make choices ...

To recap:
Throttle cable is 5.25m
Gear cable is 5.75m

However, the throttle cable has 45cm further to go at the engine end, so should be the longer one. Also the gear cable does a 95cm bigger loop in the sugar scoop. I'm wondering if they have been fitted on the wrong way round? Both cables make a long sweeping curve in the sugar scoop, but the gear cable goes the aft side of the steering quadrant.

Should I stick to the same sizes, but swap them?

or

Throttle cable 5.25m (as existing)
Gear cable 4.75m (1m shorter, to allow for 95cm bigger loop)

or something else?
 
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prv

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Should I stick to the same sizes, but swap them?

or

Throttle cable 5.25m (as existing)
Gear cable 4.75m (1m shorter, to allow for 95cm bigger loop)

or

Throttle cable 5.50m (existing plus 25cm)
Gear cable 5.0m (75cm shorter)

Fit whatever makes sense for the route you want them to take. I've just fitted new ones that are a bit longer than the existing, to allow them to run down the bulkhead and then change direction neatly in the void behind the fuel tank rather than flying through space inconveniently in front of the fuel filters.

Pete
 

scottie

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Cables are measured overall in .25m length except USA who use imperial (feet)
Sod's law insists that marked end is fitted at least convenient place.
Nearest length plus safe measuring along with what's handy is often used so can end up with extra 1/2 Mtr and more !
Use existing cables to find best length Worth tightening up any bends .
May be worth using 33c extreme or plus cables
Check control instuctions to ensure neutral throttle is set up properly often slow ahead rather than neutral detent.
 

fisherman

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It won't cost much to have a little extra length, and I suspect that tight turns cause cables to become stiff sooner, as the inner wears a groove in the sheath at the bend. When it gets too tight one day you select from ahead to astern, just as you are approaching the Lifeboat on its mooring, the exposed inner folds, and if you're really unlucky you cannot even shift from ahead to neutral. Ask me how I know.
 

scottie

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Sorry what would I know for distributing them for over 40 years

Most standard Morse cables ie 33c break at the point where the piano wire is swadged into the rod end than any other point! And this I would suggest is a result on incorrect adjustment usually involving the lost motion device required to allow a single lever control to work.
 

fisherman

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Sorry what would I know for distributing them for over 40 years

Most standard Morse cables ie 33c break at the point where the piano wire is swadged into the rod end than any other point! And this I would suggest is a result on incorrect adjustment usually involving the lost motion device required to allow a single lever control to work.

Is my suggestion about tight bends incorrect? I always try to get the biggest radius possible, if necessary buying longer cables.
 

scottie

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Is my suggestion about tight bends incorrect? I always try to get the biggest radius possible, if necessary buying longer cables.

Yes it increases the scrub load as the wider the bend the longer the inner drags
Cables runs ideally should have long straights and bends of approx 9" radius and should not be clipped under trays but on top.
 
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Yes it increases the scrub load as the wider the bend the longer the inner drags
Cables runs ideally should have long straights and bends of approx 9" radius and should not be clipped under trays but on top.

Fisherman, this is exactly the same as drilling oil wells, long bends, bigger friction, tight bends small friction. I have to argue with junior designers all the time who build big sweeping wells on directional planning software avoiding tight bends until I get them to calculate what we call 'drag' and demonstrate that the drag loads are less on tight bends.
 

fisherman

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Thanks, will reorganise. What is the cause of deterioration over time? I have dual controls, unfortunately in series, and when things get too stiff eventually the, usually most distant, cable end fractures at the swage point as described above. I often wonder if there could be a clamp round the cable with a hole and grease nipple, somewhere in the middle.
 

scottie

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Making sure that all the stops are correctly adjusted so that the control limits the cable travel is the first step and that the controls are well greased .
If you are working the boat commercially then it may be worth using premium cables that do not use piano wire cores

There used to be lubricant and adapters available from Morse but have not seen it for a long time and doubt if it is still marketed
 
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