More Yanmar 1GM questions (sorry)

blackbeard

blackbeard

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1. After I change the oil, especially if I change the filter as well, there's always a lapse of time between when I start the engine and when it thinks it has enough oil pressure, presumably while the oil ways are getting filled with oil. Is this normal, is it healthy, and is there a way of getting around this?
2. Boat is staying afloat and in commission this winter (in a marina in Portsmouth harbour). Is there any risk of the water in the engine block (sea water of course) freezing? Should I drain the engine block before a cold spell?
regards, Mike
 
There has been discussion about this. I think that you are only supposed to change the oil (extract I suppose) via the dipstick. Problems with pressure otherwise.
 
Is it possible to fill the filter with oil before attaching or is this another of those wonderful designs that wont allow you to do so without spilling most of it into the bilge.?
 
Definately only empty old oil through dipstick, Pella extractor (ball tank)works well. If I remember rightly the problem with oil pressure is air locks and should be avoided if you refill straight after emptying.
 
Presumably the oil filter is being replaced empty(as it is horizontal), so overfill the oil by about 1/4 inch. When starting pull out the stop lever, lift the decompression lever and turn the engine over with the starter until the oil pressure alarm ceases. If the alarm does not stop after 15 seconds, stop, wait for the starter to cool for 5 seconds and retry. By lifting the stop lever you stop excess fuel entering the comustion chamber. Lifting the decompression lever reduces the load on starter and battery, turning the engine over pumps the oil into the filter but also around the oilways. When the alarm stops start the engine.
If I have not run my engines for two weeks or more I always use the above procedure(less the excess oil) to pump oil around the engine before starting. As usual all advice is given freely, and as usual I'm bound to be wrong!

David
 
Cant find the forum discussion but there is apparently some info in PBO May 2004 p79 if you have a copy.
 
OOPS! sorry did'nt read part two.
I generally do not drain the engine, as air and wet metal tend to cause rusting. I fill a watering can with 25% antifreeze and 75% fresh water, run the engine for twenty minutes to ensure the thermostat is open. Stop the engine, shut the seacock, remove the seacock cap, fill the strainer from the watering can and restart the engine. Keep filling the strainer until the watering can is empty and stop the engine. Hopefully the block and waterways are now full of the mixture.

Good Luck

David.
 
Hi
With my 1GM10 for the last 4 years have Drained the oil from the front plug/valve (make sure you re fit the valve the right way )
Removed the old filter with a old towel under it to catch slight leakage and have a container handy to put old filter in,
Partly fill new filter with oil, put a smear of oil on the washer and with towel still in place screw on quickly (easy as its quite a coarse thread)
Top up oil to dip stick mark and then with decompressor lifted and ignition on wind over with starting handle untill alarm stops.if you are still in the water turn off the engine seacock before cranking.
After about 20 minutes re check oil level
I have never had any probs at all with this method but never leave the engine without oil, possibly this is why people have trouble priming the pump !

Pete
 
When I fitted a !GM to a previous boat, I had the problem that the oil pressure warning buzzer wouldnt go off even after 30 sec and at low revs. To cut a long story short I spoke to the importer who explained that what had happened was a loss of prime whilst the engine was stored empty over a couple of years, and that no damage would result if I revved it for 20 secs to get oil pressure back. I was given a long explanation about there being oil in the bearings and a wedge forming to prevent contact and the pump only being there to flush fresh oil through the system etc. I finally got him to put his words in a formal gttee that they would carry the can.

So I revved the engine. After 30 sec or so at highish revs, the oil pressure came up. The engine worked perfectly for the 7 years I had the boat - no signs of wear or other problems.

Empty via the dipstick tube to minimise the chance of having the problem.
 
IMHO I wouldn't bother on both counts!!! Presumably you run the engine to warm the oil before you drain it so all the bearings are covered with oil. Running the engine for 20-30 secs after refilling won't make any difference. Your local garage wouldn't bother messing about after changing the filter on your car? Just fire it up. You yourself would be happy to park the car at the airport and bu***r off on hols for 2 weeks and when you come back just get in it and start it!!!

On the second point your engine is protected inside the boat and it would be a very cold winter if the seawater temp fell below 5degs C so its very unlikely that the water would freeze inside the block when the engine is surrounded by a blanket of 5+ degs of water. It's different if you were taking the boat out and storing it ashore, then you would need to protect it.
 
I was advised by the marina manager (an ex engineer with French Marine) that the engine should only be emptied from the dipstick hole & never the drain plug & to pour oil into the filter & give the engine plenty of revs when restarting to circulate the oil.I had started the engine on tickover & the oil warning light stayed on.As soon as I gave it some wellie the light went out as the oil was circulating presumably at pressure.
 
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