More Raymarine depth/transducer questions

RIN

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Thanks to everyone that gave me advice on what to put in the Raymarine P79 depth transducer in my previous post. I have ordered some propylene glycol.

The reason I asked the questions is because the depth sounder (fishfinder) screen on my Raymarine E120 is not working properly. I am currently at a fresh water marina near Lincoln and the depth sounder is showing over 50M and this intermittently. Not sure what the depth is but it can't be 50M

20150112_161117_zps9ea10baf.jpg


Someone suggested that I check there is fluid in the transducer hence my original post. I visited the boat yesterday to see if I could check that the transducer was full of fluid but I couldn't get the top off. It is in the bilge but recessed under a second skin so actually getting fingers on it is difficult, as is using a rubber wrench. The two screw holes have no screws in them so the top should turn.
20150112_141333_zps01caf94e.jpg


Does anyone know if there is a tool or technique I can use to do this? Or even does anyone have any other ideas as to what could be wrong?

Cheers
Richard
 
The screws are to lock the top, but the answer is plain to see on the lid i.e. "remove" in direction of arrow. Try a light tap on the lugs, use a bit of wood and a light hammer? Are you sure you are not running a simulation! Also when/if you get it out and you have enough spare lead try hanging the ducer over the side and seeing what return you get then.
 
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It might be one of those jobs it isnt worth fixing ! If the screws are not here , maybe someone silicon or epoxied the lid on ?
I might start to think about just buying another one and saving all the grief- it isnt thru hull. I don't think they cost much. Basically they come in various shapes and have a different plug on the end for Raymrine/Garmin etc. Tables for suitable plotters will be on Airmar's pages.
 
It might be one of those jobs it isnt worth fixing ! If the screws are not here , maybe someone silicon or epoxied the lid on ?
I might start to think about just buying another one and saving all the grief- it isnt thru hull. I don't think they cost much. Basically they come in various shapes and have a different plug on the end for Raymrine/Garmin etc. Tables for suitable plotters will be on Airmar's pages.

About £150 I think. It had crossed my mind that I might have to do that apart from the fact that at the moment I don't know for sure that the transducer is the problem. The transducer connects to a Raymarine DSM300 module which then connects to the master E120 plotter. There appears to be a link between the two, the underneath boat icon on the display is flashing so I assume the DSM300 is working ok. Hence my desire to do something simple like checking the fluid in the transducer.

Interestingly, the transducer cable connecting to the DSM300 is a little bit tacky and shiny but I do not know whether this is indicating a problem or not. Its the one on the left

20150112_152702_zpse5992760.jpg
 
Iirc the DSM units have a status led on them - is it showing all ok? (I have to say though that I would start with the transducer).

Glory be - I have just downloaded the installation manual and there IS a status LED. Underneath the unit. Out of sight. Grrrrrrr who designs these things? Well that's another thing for me to look at next time we are on the boat
 
Obvious I know but presume you have carried out a reset as per p23, this cured a wrong reading I had after with the help of another forumite we fitted a DSM300 to my last boat.

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...6U2e1KCaW-ttz0Ebw&sig2=S9nOEZN-ZZXzpr7nPUlhOQ

On current boat I lost the depth intermittently and then lost it completely even on mooring. Uncoupled and coupled the leads to ensure a good connection, spray with switch cleaner and it worked for a period of time before disappearing again, faulty lead was eventually diagnosed.

Your right though those LED's are a b*gger to see.
 
I don't mean to hijack the thread, but with so much expertise on board I couldn't resist barging in. My boat has an old Navman F440 fishfinder installed which is showing its age. The screen fades after an hour or so and is hard to read. I probably need to replace it but don't want to change the transducers which are bonded in. I wonder if there is another make of fishfinder which is a straight swap.
 
Obvious I know but presume you have carried out a reset as per p23, this cured a wrong reading I had after with the help of another forumite we fitted a DSM300 to my last boat.

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...6U2e1KCaW-ttz0Ebw&sig2=S9nOEZN-ZZXzpr7nPUlhOQ

On current boat I lost the depth intermittently and then lost it completely even on mooring. Uncoupled and coupled the leads to ensure a good connection, spray with switch cleaner and it worked for a period of time before disappearing again, faulty lead was eventually diagnosed.

Your right though those LED's are a b*gger to see.

Thanks - Yes I found I could do that from the E120 but it made no difference
 
OK I think I understand the problem now.

I managed to twist the transducer off and to my surprise it had no locking ring, no screws, no base full of liquid. Whoever fitted it had not bothered with the assembly, but just used Sikaflex to stick the transducer directly onto the hull, which meant it was not pointing down, but pointing off at an angle because of the deadrise of the hull.
20150202_122556_zps1cf04b23.jpg


There was enough cable to take the transducer to the transom and dangle it just below the surface and to my relief it was working correctly

I have ordered the housing kit for a mere £24 so this could be a cheap fix if all goes well.
 
Before you re fix it I would suggest a temporary fixing and take the boat out. Make sure that at speed it does not loose the depth ( air bubbles under the hull).

My T40 had the same unit as you initially in roughly the same posn and stopped at 15 knots. It was moved (by the ever helpful Essex / Boats.co.uk) to the centre and worked fine.

If it was badly installed the odds are it has never worked and you would not want to go to all the effort to find you still have a problem.
 
Clean the surface of the transducer, then put it in a plastic bag, add water then replace in the original hole making sure it is able to make full contact with the hull i.e. clean that area as well. then see what you get back. If it not as good as the over the transom return echo then look for an alternative area, about 2/3rds back from the bow, and in a non turbulant area, it looks like you will have trouble getting to the solid moulding but this must be found. Good luck
 
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