Mooring warps

T

Tamarisk1

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Just renewing the home berth mooring warps. Looking at splicing a s/s eye into one end of the warp and attaching via a s/s shackle to a foot or so of chain (in old fire hose) around/inside the cleat. Anybody have any tips or views on this arrangement?
Just want to protect the warps from chafe etc.

Shackles will be moused as normal.


Ta
 
I've had this arrangement for several years without any problems but using galvanised chain, eyes and shackles. The chain is passed round one leg of the pontoon cleat, as you suggest, but without any hose, which is uneccessary.
 
How do these compare with rubber snubbers, performance wise? My present berth suffers from wash generated by passing ships and I could do with more resilience in my lines, especially the head rope which is very short because it's a finger pontoon.
 
Highly recommended. We suffer from wash from ferries, fishing boats etc and the springs smooth everything out nicely. We're fairly heavy displacement, don't know how well they'd work with lighter boats.

Use rubber snubbers on the springs and they don't seem to be as effective.
 
I've got more trust in these than the rubber ones...They certainly ease the snubbing in rough weather....and hopefully less likely to disintegrate when I least expect it

Mind you, I have to squirt WD40 over them when we are on board, as they do tend to squeak otherwise!!

I'm not sure I follow the logic of saving a few pence on the cost of permanent mooring lines preventing my pride and joy from disappearing off into the sunset...my two stern lines, including springs etc, cost around £150 but I got to tell you from 1500 miles away I sleep well at night (most of the time!) and they'll last another year or so before the rope part needs replacing.

Thanks for the correction about INOX...I wondered why I had never come across it as a substance in my metallurgy lectures at uni all those years ago!! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
Just a note - check what the marina cleats are made of as many of them are cast alloy - designed to be strong enough (due to their sectional area) with ropes around them - but wearing very quickly with moving chain abrading them away. Have had to replace a few marina cleats due to this problem, unfortunately the construction of the pontoon is often such that standard cleats can't be bolted to them...
 
Consider using nylon thimbles, very tough and no corrosion.

I would not go back to metal of any type on my moorings. (thimbles).
 
I can't imagine why you would go from rope to chain to go around a cleat on the finger jetty. Mooring ropes are usually hugely oversized for the job thye do which allows for plenty of chafe. That is if you don't use a covering over the rope. As suggested the mooring cleats may be damaged by chain.

Boats around our club that are moored in pens use just rope mostly without covering. The rope is so cheap that you just have to keep an eye on it for wear.

What they use at the jetty end is a heavy concrete weight hanging on a chain into the water. The mooring ropes are shackled to the chain so that the weight provides some snubbing effect. This is perhaps more necessary because the jetty is not floating so boat must be allowed to rise and fall in the 1 metre max tide range.

What is vital is that all mooring ropes where possible take the long path. ie springers from a point on the jetty near the bow to the stern. The stern ropes go from the far side of the stern to the jetty (on the opposite side). Bow ropes are a little more difficult but are kept as loose as possible. (consistant with holding the bow central to the pen. Anyway this is just a pointer to how it is doen at our club marina and may not be appropriate to your situation. olewill
 
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