modifying a genoa sail

simon_sluggett

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I have just converted to roller reefing and need to fit the genoa. I have a hanked on genoa sail with bolt rope which is only lightly used and thought with some modification I could use it until I can afford to replace with a new one.
I also want to make a lazy jack system.
My time is something I have plenty of - money aint!!!!

So some questions ..........
1.What problems am I likely to face sewing it myself?
2 Will a bolt rope work(assuming its the right size to fit the groove) or is a sewn on bead better?
3.Has anyone sewn on sacrificial strips? How long will the sail last without them.
4.Where can I get the material and thread?
5. Am I wasting my time?

Ta.
 
I have had 2 sails modified from hank to foil luff but I left both to the sail maker. The luff strip comes as a tape with different diameter cords selected to suit your system and involves cutting off the existing bolt rope and cringles and sewing on the tape and strops for the tack and head.
If your sewing machine will do it and you can get the tape, can't see a problem. Mine cost me about £120 each for a 35' luff.
 
I don't think it's worth your trouble to do yourself, although I understand the cost implications.

Last season I had my No 1 genoa altered to fit a new luff cord to a furling genoa whose cord was too big having replaced the furling system on a 9m mast.

The luff had to be shortened a lot which entailed quite a bit of work by the sailmaker, plus the fitting of the the new luff cord- total cost, including a check over the sail and a few repair stitches here and there was £60.
 
Problem is the hankl positions where the sail is often eyed and doubled. This then gives a ridge behind the bolt-rope stopping it sliding up / down the foil. You could cheat temporary with "slugs" fitted instead of the hanks ... but have no idea if it would work.

People will give all sorts of Poo-Poo to the idea of using original genny .......... I don't know why..... as when genny is fully out in fact will probably set better - having the whole luff in the groove instead of hanks at intervals. The only duff bit comes when rolling it away - it may bunch / roll untidily due to the cut and belly.

There is no reason why a normal genny cannot be pressed into service ... if it proves successful - maybe you do not need a new one ?

There is of course always the reconditioned secondhand sail from poeple such as Seateach in Emsworth ... they have sails at all different prices to suit many different boats ... check out the web-site - which has a downloadable list of sails .. you can send your measurements and they'll quote back s/hand or new as you want ...

I've had both new and s/hand from them - very happy with both.
 
Hi magwitch

I tried this a few years ago, on a plastimo 608 system you can get slides which fit into the foil track which you hank the sail onto.

I also stitched a sacrificial strip to the genoa,you want polyester thread and do not stretch the strip as you sew it on or it will distort the leech of the sail, I slipped up by putting it on in one long strip and should have cut it down to fit the sail panels.

This will not be as good as doing the job properly and you may find the sail is a bit full in the luff but the one I did is still in use 6 years later with a new owner.

Strip bought from local sail maker (not cheap) and thread from sewing shop.

Most domestic machines will take heavy thread from the top but not from spool below, so buy the thickest they recommend ( it is not really a structural part of the sail)

Pete
 
Some more points you should investigate.
Some have a hollow cut luff to compensate for poor luff tension but that may only apply to old luff spars where the halyard comes back down the spar.

The whole sail design may be unsuitable for a luff spar.

The sail may need to be flatter to reef decently.

You may want a padded luff to improve shape when furled


Without a sacrificial strip the sail, especially the stitching, will deteriorate very quickly but that may be the most reasonable to do your self but you'll need a good sewing machine and swmbo's permission to use it. (I would not dare use ours but that is partly because I can still remember how much I paid for it)
 
I adapted my hank on working jib to fit the roller foil. I used plastic mainsail 'bullet' slides of an appropriate size to fit the slot. I was a bit worried as to the strength of the plastic slides, so I bought twice as many as needed to replace the piston hanks and added some extra eyes along the luff using an eyelet kit. the slides are attached to the luff eyes using a soft siezing of thin braided line. The siezing is finished with a reef knot. My braidline is a bit slippery, so I had to back up the reef knots with tiny tyewraps. For a working jib, you also need to use a strop on the head of the sail, so that the slider can get to the top of the foil. If you don't, the haliard will wrap! I use this sail in preference to the genoa because I sail single handed and it allows better visibility, almost as good performance and is easier to sheet in. I have used it for three years, now, in winds up to F6. The slides have not broken, or given any other trouble. I have no UV strip, but I unbend the sail when I leave the boat if strong sunshine is forecast for the coming week.

Go for it! Neil
 
Re: modifying a genoa sail - lazyjacks

No need for fancy kits ....

Came up with Lazy-Jims .... named after the guy who I penned the drawing for.

We can pre-make it on the ground before fixing to boat :>

Measure along mast and select about 60%. Set a 4mm braid line to this length with spare at each end to secure at boom ends. Using halyard - you can use a tape measure to find boom to spreader height ...

Mark at intervals vertical points and clove hitch a halved vertical line at each point. So that you have 2 ends to each line going vertical.
Now affix a line again halved - at outboard end of under boom line ... leaving two LONG lines to become the hypotenuse of the set-up ... which go over the spreaders and down to small cleats at mast base.
Lay it out nice and flat with lines at correct angles etc. Now make sure that the Hypot. lines are set at correct angle to boom line etc. Tie of in rolling hitches the verticals to it at the intervals ... leaving a slight slack to allow some sail slack etc.

You now have a kit to fix to boom with no hard blocks / wires etc. to chafe - destroy sail.

Fix under boom line ... then with weight throw hypot. lines over spreaders and hoist set-up up into place. Make of lines to mast cleats and in use adjust till it works ....

All you are really calling for with lazy-jacks is a set of guide lines to keep sail inboard and near flaking onto boom.

Here's the simple diagram penned for it :>

lazyjim.gif
 
Or there is Kayospruce who are a sail making materials supplier - excellent prices, delivery and service.
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I had my hank-on No.1 Genoa and Working jib re-worked for a Rotostay. I think it was something like £50 each for the conversion - not worth getting the sewing machine out! I also had a sacrificial strip sewn on to the Genoa. I have to say that the sails don't furl particularly nicely. More than about 4 rolls in the Genoa and it's really baggy but it's the sacrificial strip that seems to make the most difference. It wasn't too bad without it. Also the leech flaps so I've had a leech line put in. Basically, it's not as good as when it was hank-on. the boat doesn't point quite as high but we think it's worth it for the convenience. The working jib sets a lot better. We won't bother with a UV strip on it as it generally isn't on for long periods.
 
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