Mixing 2 pack paint by volume - Any bright ideas?

[sharmajm]

Being new to boating I have investigated in the correct 2 pack boat paint and epoxy sealer for the hull. Problem is I am struggling with a convenient way to measure the two parts by volume. I can think of a number of ways by weight as long as SWMBO let me use the old kitchen scales, but the paint I have bought specifically states by volume.

Any advice welcome.

Also can you still use white spririt to clean your brushes. I have bought Jotun paint and they are lacking in any advice on the tin for first time 2 packers!!

 

[Thistle]

Is there much difference in density between the two components? If not then measuring by weight would be much the same as measuring by volume. In the end of the day, I doubt if the mixture is too critical; the proportions advertised on the tin will be the ideal but the product is designed / sold for folk like us who use small quantities and who don't have ready access to ideal measuring equipment.

Last time I did it, I think I used old plastic cups, one for each component. Don't leave it in the cups for too long, though, as the paint can make the plastic go soggy!

And, no, you'll have to use a special cleaner for epoxy or - and I think this is the better solution - use disposable rollers or pads.

 

[Guest]

50p shops normally have some graduated kitchen jugs .... even a nest of them ----- tiny up to quite large.

As long as the jug only has one component in at any time - it should be re-useable without problem for later paint mixing.

Thinners / cleaners are specific to the paint - you should ask the supplier you got it from.

Volume and weight are not same and not a good idea unless you can ascertain correct vol / weight of each component in total nett to make calcualtion.

 

[oldsaltoz]

G'day Jon,

As you will be mixing small quantities, I would think about 1 litre at a time for a standard spray gun pot.

You have a couple of choices, you can buy a proper measuring ruler, it's just like a 25 mm wide ruler but the markings are used to show the ratio of mixed material, simple to use and available at most good paint shops, the only condition is that the container you measure in is a regular shape, not a cone shape or oval, like a normal paint tin with the same shape from top to bottom.

Or, you can borrow the measuring jug from SHMBO and measure the required amounts, using water, into 2 separate can/containers of any shape and mark them. Just make sure they are level when you mark and fill them later.

Thinning (if any) should be done after the two components have been added together, you can use the water trick or the measuring stick to determine the percentage.

Also check if the two pot you have chosen needs to stand for a period of time before application, some need to start reacting first.

Andavagoodweekend.

 

[H4B]

You need a stick with notches cut into it and a straight sided mixing tin. If its two to one . mark three equi-distant notches, fill up to second notch with paint and top up to third with resin.. If adding thinners make sure you measure expected volume of mixed paint before you start so that you know how much thinners to add. Have several different sticks prepared for different volume mixes. As for brush cleaning , you will have to use the prescribed thinners. Cleaning equipment after two part paint is expensive have a look at Jenny foam brushes. Good luck

 

[jerryat]

Hi Jon,

I have just gone through all this quite a few times while epoxying and painting my boat. I tried various ways - cups, measuring jugs etc - but came up with the simple solution of marking and indenting each tin.

For example, depending on the amount I felt I could apply within the the 'pot life' time for the ambient temperature, I marked both the 'base' and 'hardener' into (say) quarters on the outside of the tins. THEN I took a screw driver and gently indented the tin at each mark. This makes the level very easy to see on the inside. I then pour the paint into a plastic container down to the desired mark (both base and hardener) and bingo, an accurate mix.

Blakes thought this a good idea when I casually mentioned it, and pointed out that there was a BIT of leeway in the mixes, though obviously the more accurate the better. Incidentally, I got into the habit of stirring the paints really well the evening before use, then again just before pouring and mixing. It saves time when you are trying to maintain a 'wet' edge.

This method worked brilliantly on both epoxy and 2-pot finishes. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Hope this helps

Cheers Jerry

 

[Strathglass]

Usually the quantities supplied by the paint manufacturer are such that you mix the contents of the two cans together and this gives you the correct mix ratio.

If you require smaller quantities there are two simple ways of mixing two part paint by volume.

For small quantities use TWO large syringes one for each component. This gives you repeatable control.

The second method for larger quantities is to use calibrated plastic mixing pots. They are available from SP and West. They are relatively innexpensive.

I use a combination of both methods when mixing polyester resin. I fill one of the plastic mixing containers with the resin then add the precise amount of catylist using a small syringe.

Iain

 

[PaulJ]

I second Iain's suggestion of calibrated mixing pots. Mine came from a specialist car painting supplies of which there is one in most towns. They were about £5 for 50 and they are made of a flexible type of plastic that is not affected by any of the commonly used solvents.... they are certainly Ok with acetone and epoxy and polyurethane thinners.

For cleaning brushes you SHOULD use the correct solvent but you can get away with acetone (which is probably a lot cheaper) provided you wash the brush out and let it dry..... you can't leave a brush that has been used for polyurethane in a pot of acetone to keep it soft until next time because it all goes lumpy....

Having said that, have you considered rolling the paint on? I did my boat with foam "mini-rollers", though they have to be specially bought because polyurethane attacks the normal rollers that you can buy at B&Q. The finish is not "concours" but it is not bad and a whole lot better than I would have got with a brush.... and as it happens there is a picture of it in my recent "Meet Damarri" posting.

Paul /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[aztec]

mixing stick.

it's a caliberated aluminium "ruler" caliberated for paint/thinner/hardener.

just pour in the required amount and add the rest of the products to the various lines. you can't go wrong.

you should be able to get one from your paint supplier on request.

regards, steve.

 

[colvic]

When using these types of paint in warmer climes I couldn't mix it all at once as it would go off before I could use it.
Usually, the total of the two components add up tp 750ml and mix in a ratio; I used small 500ml drinking water bottles, with the neck cut off, that could be thrown away after each use as they didn't cost anything..just discarded packaging.
For example, if mixing at 3:1 use a small measuring jug to pour (say) 50ml of water into a bottle and mark where it comes to with a felt marker on the outside. Do the same with another bottle but this time put in 150ml and mark the outside. Tip out the water, dry off the bottles and there you have a 3 to 1 by volume or weight mixing ratio.

Phil

 

[Joe_Cole]

You don't have to use a measuring stick. If you are not doing a lot an ordinary steel rule is just as good.

Pour in 1st component up to (say) 1". Pour in 2nd component up to 3".....and you've got a 2:1 ratio. Dead easy!

For small amounts, as others have said, a syringe is very useful. I use "drenching" syringes from our local agricultural supplier.

 

[adelaidem]

whats wrong with a steel rule 4:1 mix, 4cm base 1cm hardener.....etc