missive from st lucia, slight ARC-bashing

tcm

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Nearly every type of even-slightly-atlantic-capable boat is jammed into rodney bay marina, and very fluttery and smart they all look. It's almost like a boat show, and certainly worth a visit.

The arc boats all get a dock space, but anyone can anchor in the marina for free and whizz about in the dinghy. Actually i spent the first two days not even cleared in, but unless you have a bit of paper you can't buy chandlery so I cleared in . Then found the chandlers is shut from saurday lunchtme to monday morning. Bit daft eh? I can't imagine a better market for flogging nearly everything, but the shops are shut.

I am going off the idea of doing an atlantic wth the arc. I mean, amongst other stuff the arc organisers claim to smooth the clearing out of canaries (eh? there isn't anything to do) and clearing into st lucia - but everyone still has to fill in a form and show passports etc. sothey can't have done anything, realy other than tel you where the office is located, duh. The guy clearing out i nthe same office went mental at the amount of form filling and protestd that since he was with the arc surely he should be exempt? The customs guys laughed.

Arcies also seem to need to be tied up in a marina cos otherwise they will obviously die, but it's nicer out in the bay bit cooler in the breeze - some arcies are actualy rafted on the fuel dock, urgh.

I am a bit leery of the notion that the arc thing makes things in the least bit safer, but there seems to be that mood over the whole thing - that because people buy tickets and there are organisers and t-shirt each, then it's all much safer than otherwise. I had one guy on vhf complaining about the weather not being as advertised. I can easily imagine that people (ok, probably crew really) who otherwise would not go find temselves doing the crossing merely because of the illusion of safety in numbers and it being a Properly Orgainsed Event. Welll, maybe.

There are several tpes of arc participant, and a very common one is the quite ancient city type who wears the blimmin arc t-shirt or crew t-shirt all day so four or five of them together look like a gay wedding, and they wear belts on their shorts too, with the t-shirt tucked in. One german crew has t-shirts with Skipper and Crew printed onnem, and they wear them every day.

I didn't see much of the inter-boat camaraderie, really. I imagine this would be more in evidence if you helped neighbours at the start fr example, but otherwise most crew who have spent 2-3 weeks talking to each other carried on doing the same, unwinding gently as part of their crew group rather than gregarious mingling with others.

Even as non-arc, you can trot into the arc office in the marina and askem about where to find stuff, so they are jolly helpfl, which is nice. I found a sail loft cos we neded a rigger, and the sail loft man pulled a long line for me with a rigger caled Philip tied to the other end, and he nipped up the mast and sorted the lines for me for fifty quid.

Swmbo tells me that the arc prizegiving thing is next friday, but we'll be gone by then - the French islands such as Martinique 20nm away are much more sorted and less knackered than the ex-british ones which bumble along, partly supported by public school brits who seem fine wth overpriced manky food and dog-slow service.

For most brits (and the magazines, have a look at YM which simply ignores the possibility of martinique being visited in its list of carib places to visit) the french carib doesn't seem to exist , and vice versa. But martinique s a department of France, pukka supermarkets and restos and chandlery exactly the same as france, just a bit more laid back, and lotsof it subsidised by the er EU, or that's what t says on lots of the signs about the new roads or buildings...

The 15 mint plants are one their last legs really, it think we might call it a draw todaywith final mohitos, and find new plants in martinique . Menthe in french, i think. Hope marlon is doing better than these guys, but i believe he hasn't had various arms and legs ripped off him every other day.

Medium term plan is to cruise up to st martin and return to canaries for summer. I had one german guy wanting to come along, excellent chap, but he can't make it due to busy work. Wel, ok, i sent him an email saing we were planning t be at the boat by VE day (may 8th) and he should be ok to be back at work shortly after anniversary of Dday landings so if he could let me know in 10 days then that would give him the chance to run it past his boss, and invade poland or france as well. But anyway he said he unfortunately couldn't make it, can't imagine why. Perhaps he can't stand Pat's essex accent, that could have been it...

Oh yes, and Pat says she is right up for the return trip, meaning that her first sailing trip apart from day racing will be an atlantic circuit. And we all got on jolly well with stingo, so he might come again too, maybe. Having Keith (racylady) as director of food was another bonus for the rest of us slightly-rubbish cooks, but i think we might have another volunteer for the fourth slot, perhaps.

Boatfixing now, bit of sail bodging this morning I think. I tried to fix an interior light as well but the bits flew apart so i'll have to buy a new unit, damn. Hope all fine at home but swmbo says Gbrown is busy papering over the cracks.
 
Having taken part in the ARC a few years back, let me comment on a few of these points-

They certainly didn't ease the clearing out process in Las Palmas: the officials came down to the dock to save us a walk to the office but we ended up queuing for hours as 200+ boats were all trying to clear at the same time.

The marina at Rodney bay gave us 6 days berthing for the price of 3. I then dropped down to anchor in the lagoon and get away from the all-night noise from the bar. Inward clearance at Rodney Bay is no different for ARC participants though the fees are waived.

Chandlery in St Lucia is pretty poor. If you need anything serious, nip over to Marin on Marinique.

I often hear it said that people go with the ARC who wouldn't be up to doing the crossing independently. The answer to that is, as Churchill said, in the plural and they bounce. Certainly first-timers are given a boost of confidence by having the radio net but I met no one who couldn't have done it alone.

The social thing is as diverse as are the 1000+ participants. You get the younger crowd who think they are heroes for getting across and feel the need to get drunk every night and make lots of noise in the bar. You get the crews with uniforms - harmless fun but not really our style - and there are lots of smaller groups of like-minded people who meet during the rally and bump into each other all through the WI thereafter.
 
Did a Transatlantic a few years ago from Tenerife NOT with ARC, but at roughly the same time. No problems with clearance etc in Rodney Bay, went to a restaurant close to the Marina first night and on booking a table were asked if we were with ARC. When we said 'No' we were promptly christened NARC (Not-ARC) which we remained for the rest of our stay. We got upgraded to a very good table as well!

I had to return to UK, so went to the travel agent at Rodney Bay to book flight (BWIA). Pleasant lady asked if we had just crossed the Atlantic, and when we said 'Yes' she told us that ARC participants got a 10% discount, and promptly deducted it from our ticket price. She never asked (well not really), so we never said! Best of both worlds I would have said. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
Hola from us and Marlon.

I have been lucky enough to have done 4 cruises to the Windward, Leeward Islands and met loadsa ARC peeps. I wouldn't be in a club that would have me as a member. For the first week or two, they tend to be full of self importance and think the world revolves around them. Later, as they disperse, cruise around a bit and meet some of the 2 or 3 thousand other yachts that do it unaided, they become quite human and we met some great people.

I thought the chandlers in Rodney Bay Marina (Island Water World) were great. Got everything. But you won't get Europe service.

The customs office reverts to normal soon. Spent one Saturday lunchtime with the lads watching football on their telly. Clearing in and out is always a pain, get used to it. At least you don't have a camel trek to the airfield like you do in places like Union Island!

Did I mention it rains a lot until about March??

Regards, The Flames!!!
 
Why does everyone go to St Lucia, surely as the Canaries are part of the EU, if you landed in say Guadlaoupe or St Martinn, you would avoid the arc lot and not even have to clear in??

Just wonderin cause flew from B'hm to Paris to Guadaloupe, sailed up to Antigua and the first place I had to show the passport was at Nelsons DY, cleared out and then never showed the PP again.....
 
Aha. Well, the Canaries are not part of the EU hence the duty free status, petrol, diesel, fags, booze etc.

Any of the French West Indies (which are) are ok to not clear in BUT when you go anywhere else, they will want your last clearance out. It is a minefield. You can often get away with it, but the one time you don't will cause you big grief. Have met people sulking over their big fines.

The Dutch side of St. Maaten can also get arsy, Nethelands Antilles and have seperate rules. Don't forget a great deal of all the Islands revenue comes from Immigration fees and they get the hump with 'dodgers'.

Just do it all with a smile and you won't go wrong!!
 
A couple of weeks ago we went along with the Skipper to clear out via Immigration at Nelson's DY, Antigua, so we could fly back to uk.

I won't bore you with the proof of ticket drama! All I will say is everyone of the skippers clearing in or out was smiling through gritted teeth. Why? Well the big lady and ALL her assistants were doing the paperwork at the same time watching a DVD on the TV........... Say no more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Its a great stamp to get though, "Antigua Nelsons Dockyard, entry by Sea"...


/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
" Aha. Well, the Canaries are not part of the EU hence the duty free status, petrol, diesel, fags, booze etc."

In fact the Canaries are an autonomous region of Spain, are part of the EEA. currency is the Euro.
 
[ QUOTE ]
In fact the Canaries are an autonomous region of Spain, are part of the EEA. currency is the Euro.

[/ QUOTE ]From Wikipedia:

"The islands are outside the European Union customs territory and VAT area, though politically within the EU. Instead of VAT there is a local Sales Tax (IGIC) which has a general rate of 5%, an increased tax rate of 12%, a reduced tax rate of 2% and a zero tax rate for certain basic need products and services (eg telecommunications). The ISO 3166-1 α-2 code IC is reserved for representing them in customs affairs. Goods subject to Spanish customs and excise duties and Value Added Tax (VAT), such as tobacco or electronic goods, are therefore significantly cheaper in the Canaries."
 
The customs on Antigua were the most awkward and rude we met anywhere in the Caribbean. We had the misfortune to fail to get clearance in or out of Guadeloupe as a result of being there at Mardi Gras so only had a week old clearance from Dominica. The official at English Harbour was all for telling us to leave the island straight away. Clearing out from Jolly harbour there was a queue of us outside the office. The official arrived an hour late and still kept us waiting another half hour while she had coffee.

The one place the customs were really nice was Bermuda though Fort de France was a close second.
 
Friendly Caribbean C&I...

Anguilla was 'manned' by two lovely ladies who never stopped smiling when I was there last year. I had the surreal experience of being the interpreter for Anguillan customs and a French skipper - both of whom were speaking English - but couldn't understand a word the other was speaking!

BVI generally miserable unless you've done something wrong at which stage they become happy 'cos they can fine you.

French islands generally relaxed and easy to deal with.
 
The Custooms (and Immigration too) at English Harbour used to have quite a Legendary reputation for everything you mention above and more - it took real talent and dedication to achieve such a reputation, and I am sure that they are determined to uphold it as much as they can.
In complete contrast to so many other places in the Windies where invariably the officials are very pleasant, and just trying to do their onerous job of dealing with vast amounts of ultimately useless paperwork.

Snowleopard, could you not have claimed that you had engine failure, and spent a week becalmed behind Dominica?
Maybe not - I know of a chap on a wee engineless sloop many years ago who was actually becalmed for days on end off Dominica, and then he got major grief from the authorities in Antigua when he finally arrived there..... you just cant win with officialdom, best thing to do is smile sweetly and keep teeth gritted....
 
Nice to hear some positive feedback about us!
And I am sure that you will be pleased to hear that you dont have to scramble up that high wall in the commercial harbour anymore - it is now much easier to check in at Port St Charles marina on the NW side of the island, rather than going to Bridgetown on the SW corner.
 
Having been to the Caribbean myself (sailing as well) I can't help but feel that those above are missing a basic point here somewhere.
It's the Caribbean. Things happen in a different way, usually slowly, and sometimes not at all.
It's just the way it is.......
 
I thought I'd mention. Apart from the 'bashing' we took from the Imigration lady at Nelson's DY. I found the people on Antigua most friendly and courteous. A trip on the local bus, there was a constrant stream of "Good mornings" and "Thank you" by each person getting on and off!
 
I've only visited Barbados once, about 12 years ago, and had a slightly iffy experience with customs. Lyn had made a courtesy ensign, but we only had yellow material for the central panel, not the correct shade of gold. The customs officer insisted we replace it immediately, his cousin (downstairs in the cruise liner terminal) would sell us one for $US20. I was so spaced out after an Atlantic crossing I actually paid up for a feeble little 'flag on a stick'. Otherwise Barbados was wonderfully friendly.

I think it was a guy named Sargeant King who so enjoyed pushing yachties around in Antigua. Thankfully that's in the past.

But even he couldn't compete with Cuban customs officers. When we arrived in Cuba this year, we had 14 of them on board for four hours, ripping the boat apart. Mostly, they were just curious and had nothing better to do that afternoon. Tip: if going to Cuba, arrange to arrive about 4pm, then they'll only spend an hour working you over before knocking-off time.
 
Re: Customs at Barbados

Rest assured that these practices mentioned above (re the Customs chap's cousin flogging flags) have (AFAIK) been abolished, and the whole Customs & Immigration procedure is now much simplified, especially so if you check in at Port St Charles rather than the Bridgetown Harbour.
 
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