MFV wooden bilge keel

[Topknotrob]

Hi

I currently have my 56' ex pilot cutter out of the water for some work. She was built in 1957 by Scottish builders Miller's of Monance, and is larch planking on heavy sawn oak frames with similar construction to most MFVs, except originally she had alternate bronze nails and rivets on each plank.

I have noticed that one of the bilge Keels has come loose at the front and will need refastening.
The shipwright who has helped me with her before has emigrated to New Zealand, so correspondence can be a bit intermittent! However, he has advised either drilling right through and pulling up with threaded bar or coach screw with some bedding compound inbetween.

I am a builder by day, and very practically minded. However, this will be the first time I have done any repairs to her under the waterline without guidance - so needless to say I am a bit apprehensive..

This is my intended plan of action:-

*Drill suitable pilot hole through middle of B/keel, plank and frame as far as necessary
*using a tube of oil-based mastic, gun in as much as I can get in small gap between keel and hull
*use a galvanised coach screw and nice chunky washer (possibly square washer), and tighten until gap is reduced
*re-caulk seam with oakum
*paint over caulk gap with Teamac Metachlor or lead paint
*fill with red lead putty

Anyone's input on this method would be greatly appreciated.

 

[stav]

Afraid I am no boat builder but ex chippy and been around boats for some time (my caveat). But your plan seems sound to me but I would want to answer why it has pulled away?

Has a bolt failed/ Pulled further into a bit of soft wood? In which case find the failed/bent/ missing headed bolt and replace?

I just changed 1/3 of the bolts in the floors of a scarborough sloop I am trying to save from the chain saw and all needed changing due to wastage of the bolt head.

Final thought be careful to pull the keel up to the planking and not the planking to the bilge keel or you might open up seams?

Good luck with it.

 

[NormanS]

Having owned an old larch on oak Scottish fishing boat, for many years (since sold), I always had a dread of plank ends springing. She was nailed with heavy galvanised square nails. I believe that in a perfect world, the ends of the planks would be bolted through the frames. In practice this would probably mean a bolt through the frame next to the butt. In your case, of a sprung bilge keel, I would want to bolt it through the frame to make it secure.

 

[Capt Popeye]

Having owned an old larch on oak Scottish fishing boat, for many years (since sold), I always had a dread of plank ends springing. She was nailed with heavy galvanised square nails. I believe that in a perfect world, the ends of the planks would be bolted through the frames. In practice this would probably mean a bolt through the frame next to the butt. In your case, of a sprung bilge keel, I would want to bolt it through the frame to make it secure.

Humm agree with you on the through bolt idea.

My understanding of Galvanized Square Nails is that it was thought that the Vessel would be out of commision by the time the nails were corroded through, ie an expendable Vessel ?

 

[NormanS]

Humm agree with you on the through bolt idea.

My understanding of Galvanized Square Nails is that it was thought that the Vessel would be out of commision by the time the nails were corroded through, ie an expendable Vessel ?

Well, mine was built in 1938 (Herd and MacKenzie, Buckie), and is still afloat. But you know how it is with these old wooden boats. It's like grandfather's hammer, two new heads and three new shafts, but it's still grandfather's hammer.

 

[Capt Popeye]

Well, mine was built in 1938 (Herd and MacKenzie, Buckie), and is still afloat. But you know how it is with these old wooden boats. It's like grandfather's hammer, two new heads and three new shafts, but it's still grandfather's hammer.

Humm I understand that Fishing Vessels that had been Nailed were often re Nailed when required if the general hull condition was good enough

 

[Keith 66]

You say she was bronze fastened originally? then talk of putting galvanised steel coach screws or bolts in. That in itself is a recipe for rampant electrolysis and or electrolytic rot.
You can buy bronze fasteners though they are expensive or bronze rod & through bolt.

 

[ccscott49]

You say she was bronze fastened originally? then talk of putting galvanised steel coach screws or bolts in. That in itself is a recipe for rampant electrolysis and or electrolytic rot.
You can buy bronze fasteners though they are expensive or bronze rod & through bolt.

Totally agree, use bronze, not as expensive as you first thought. Anglia stainless steel, in Norfolk can help you with any bronze stuff.

 

[chrishelen]

You say she was bronze fastened originally? then talk of putting galvanised steel coach screws or bolts in. That in itself is a recipe for rampant electrolysis and or electrolytic rot.
You can buy bronze fasteners though they are expensive or bronze rod & through bolt.

I remember a guy almost beside himself with grief when his old wooden boat needed re nailing. If I remember correctly it had thousands that needed changing at £2 a nail.

 

[NormanS]

I remember a guy almost beside himself with grief when his old wooden boat needed re nailing. If I remember correctly it had thousands that needed changing at £2 a nail.

I've got a bag of heavy duty 5" galvanised square cut nails. Anyone interested?

 

[chrishelen]

I've got a bag of heavy duty 5" galvanised square cut nails. Anyone interested?

Copper nails were needed.