Metal frames windows - condensation

ghostlymoron

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A friend is considering replacing his alloy framed glass windows with perspex (or other plastic) either just fixed with adhesive sealant or though bolts at say 75mm centres. This is to reduce condensation (and leakage).
Has anyone tried this as was it effective?
 
Haven't tried that, but condensation on boat window frames shouldn't be that much of a problem., and if you eliminate the window frames, what about the condensation on windows, hull, hatches, etc.?

Reducing the amount of moisture in the air in the boat (inadequate ventilation typically a key factor) might be more effective.
 
My last boat had frameless acrylic portlights and they suffered from condensation the same as the previous one which was all glass. Current boat is better ventilated and the acrylic doesn't usually condensate but the alloy frames do sometimes. So i agree with post #2, better ventilation is a better idea.
 
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a. The OP is talking about eliminating the frames completely. That would stop condensation on the frame, because it is gone and because the alloy frame is a good conductor and is therefore colder than the cabin.

b. Drying the air is nice... but unless you also eliminate cold spots you have to get quite dry.

Another possible answer is window covers, either inside or outside. Very effective. In the winter I have covers for all of my metal framed windows, plus double glazing on the inside. Saves a LOT of heat.
 
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a. The OP is talking about eliminating the frames completely. That would stop condensation on the frame, because it is gone and because the alloy frame is a good conductor and is therefore colder than the cabin.

b. Drying the air is nice... but unless you also eliminate cold spots you have to get quite dry.

Another possible answer is window covers, either inside or outside. Very effective. In the winter I have covers for all of my metal framed windows, plus double glazing on the inside. Saves a LOT of heat.

Agreed. You can make push-fit covers cheaply from a roll up camping mat.
 
What sort of double glazing have you got?
a. The OP is talking about eliminating the frames completely. That would stop condensation on the frame, because it is gone and because the alloy frame is a good conductor and is therefore colder than the cabin.

b. Drying the air is nice... but unless you also eliminate cold spots you have to get quite dry.

Another possible answer is window covers, either inside or outside. Very effective. In the winter I have covers for all of my metal framed windows, plus double glazing on the inside. Saves a LOT of heat.
 
Haven't tried that, but condensation on boat window frames shouldn't be that much of a problem., and if you eliminate the window frames, what about the condensation on windows, hull, hatches, etc.?

Reducing the amount of moisture in the air in the boat (inadequate ventilation typically a key factor) might be more effective.

+1, its a never ending battle and condensation is THE no.1 enemy if living aboard, even with dry heat from 240 volt fan heaters in marinas as I found out briefly.

Wiping the windows for the first peer out in the morning is all a part of the glory of sailing at this time of year, and I'd rather have strong window frames with recent / strong perspex when the going gets tough.

The late 70's slap on with sealant windows don't look great - the sealant shows through - and seem to leak sooner and more often on boats I know, which is hardly surprising when you think about it.
 
+1, its a never ending battle and condensation is THE no.1 enemy if living aboard, even with dry heat from 240 volt fan heaters in marinas as I found out briefly.

Wiping the windows for the first peer out in the morning is all a part of the glory of sailing at this time of year, and I'd rather have strong window frames with recent / strong perspex when the going gets tough.

The late 70's slap on with sealant windows don't look great - the sealant shows through - and seem to leak sooner and more often on boats I know, which is hardly surprising when you think about it.

My thoughts too, except that I can't bring myself to worry about a few drops of distilled water, unless it is actuall dripping on my head. As you say, wipe it off and get on with life.
 
a. The OP is talking about eliminating the frames completely. That would stop condensation on the frame, because it is gone and because the alloy frame is a good conductor and is therefore colder than the cabin.

I was aware of that, but he'll be replacing the glass and frames with perspex, so he'll have almost the same surface area and the perspex will still condensate (if the glass would have).
 
As liveaboards, we know this problem very well too.

Our solution is to run a dehumidifier which helps a lot. (Maeco DD8L)

I get a little sometimes in the morning, this time of year. Later into the Winter, i set the heating to come on an hour before the alarm goes off and this seems to stop it.

When i do get it a square or two of kitchen roll soon gets rid of it.
 
My pals boat is a colvic countess 33 ketch with quite an acreage of glass so it takes quite a lot of mopping up. He's also got a few leaks so certain berths can get quite wet.
 
My pals boat is a colvic countess 33 ketch with quite an acreage of glass so it takes quite a lot of mopping up. He's also got a few leaks so certain berths can get quite wet.

The leaks obviously need sorting, but if he changes from glass to perspex he'll still have the same acreage, just a tiny saving on the frames. My last boat was a mobo with a lot of frameless perspex and it suffered badly with condensation. My current boat has much less perspex but suffers vastly less with condensation, which i put down to the much superior ventilation.
 
I had the same problems with condensation on a CW 35 motorsailor. 4 years ago I changed all wheelhouse windows with hardwood framed double glazed units absolutely no condensation and the boat is so much drier now.
 
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