MD2020 crankshaft nut?

AIDY

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sorry cant remember other than mine was torqued up seriously tight.

had to use a torque wrench which was 1 metre long to remove mine on my 2040..

from memory someone adviced me to crank the engine over to remove it.. I never did... so i guess that may give you an idea of left or right hand thread.

don't loose the small springs in the timing gear when you remove it...
 

VicS

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This is the nut which secures the crankshaft pulley ?

If so there is no reason for it to be LH because the pulley is on a taper and is keyed to the shaft. The w'shop manual does not suggest that it is other than RH either.

It's tightish 90-100Nm but not phenomenally tight ..not that that necessarily means it will be easy to undo. :( You'll need a puller for the pulley though.
 

john_morris_uk

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I can confirm that its standard thread and the crank shaft pully should have a flat on it for you to put a spanner on to hold the thing while you undo the nut. I jamb the spanner against the engine bearer to undo ours.

For various reasons I have had to remove ours several times.

Have you got the correctly sized socket and a long bar? Its very tight!
 

Allergy

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md2020-now have the socket & long bar

My thanks to everyone who has replied & helped out with info, it is appreciated.
Have got the socket (24mm) & long bar. Bought the crankshaft pulley puller tonight and hope to tackle the nasty job this weekend.
Duly noted about the small springs in the timing case so will plug any gaps around the engine with rags to prevent loss.
 

john_morris_uk

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My thanks to everyone who has replied & helped out with info, it is appreciated.
Have got the socket (24mm) & long bar. Bought the crankshaft pulley puller tonight and hope to tackle the nasty job this weekend.
Duly noted about the small springs in the timing case so will plug any gaps around the engine with rags to prevent loss.
One last tip, I have always had to pour boiling water over the pulley and wind the puller up really tight to get the wretched thing off. Mine seems to stick on the taper like glue.

When you get the timing gear cover off, the spring position ISN'T obvious - take your time and note where they were!
 

AIDY

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When you get the timing gear cover off, the spring position ISN'T obvious - take your time and note where they were!

I did'nt :) and found the engine won't start when the springs are put back wrong.

change the o ring on the throttle linkage while it's out..... it's the only reason i took my timing cover off.
 
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john_morris_uk

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I did'nt :) and found the engine won't start when the springs are put back wrong. (It fits into a recess in the cover and is trapped in place when you bolt the cover on.

change the o ring on the throttle linkage while it's out..... it's the only reason i took my timing cover off.
I had an annoying oil leak for several years and discovered the 'o' rings on the stop lever shaft, the throttle lever shaft AND the governor mechanism shaft had all gone hard. I replaced them all and the leaks have all gone.

My moral is, "Don't just replace the throttle shaft 'o' ring replace all three of them, and put a new gasket under the timing gear cover while you are at it.

Clean the whole thing up and some nice Volvo green paint and the engine will look like new again. (At least it will from the front end!)

To the OP - have you seen that you will need to remove the injector pump as well? You need to undo a tiny clip that connects the governor to the rack on the pump and you unbolt the pump and lift it slightly to access the clip. Where you have to be careful is that its possible to drop the clip through the hole where the injector pump was past the camshaft and into the sump. Its not too bad taking it off, but I always put a bit of thread through the clip when I am putting it back on. You need some fine needle nose pliers - (or some artery forceps which is what I use.)

Edit: You might like to look at the comments on this thread which is a previous discussion about the same subject:http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=244359
 
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