MD11c Won't Select Neutral and other teething problems

[thesaintlyone]

Well finally got the Old Westerly Splashed and all is going quite well but as usual with old boats I have a few teething problems.
My Gear Selector will not select neutral after going into forward gear making entering and leaving the Dock quite difficult which for a beginner is tough enough anyway.

Also appear to be having a problem with the engine temperature which will go into the red after about 20mins of operation and then fluctuate although I appear to be getting plenty of water through as apparent in the exhaust.

 

[VicS]

Well finally got the Old Westerly Splashed and all is going quite well but as usual with old boats I have a few teething problems.
My Gear Selector will not select neutral after going into forward gear making entering and leaving the Dock quite difficult which for a beginner is tough enough anyway.

Also appear to be having a problem with the engine temperature which will go into the red after about 20mins of operation and then fluctuate although I appear to be getting plenty of water through as apparent in the exhaust.

Overheating a common problem wit these old engines due to blockage of the cooling water path ways. If really bad its a big job to sort out esp if the cylinder jackets are blocked ........ almost a terminal condition
If you are sure you have plenty of water coming through to the exhaust start by looking at two passages in the exhaust manifold that carry water from the hose connection on its underside to the two cylinder heads.

Much has been written on the forms about MD11C and its overheating, some fairly recently therefore do a search and you will find loads of helpful info.

Gear problem may be due to bad adjustment of cables. Disconnect and try the gear selection by operating the lever on the gearbox by hand

 

[coopec]

Volvo MD11c gearbox problem.

I have a problem with my gearbox. It won't go into neutral. It goes straight from forward to reverse, or reverse to forward, and when I drained the oil it was very silvery. ie. full of metal stuff.
It's 1976 vintage so I know I am grasping at straws, but does anyone know of anyone that rebuilds these things, or is there a possibility of getting a replacement?
It makes coming alongside positively dangerous, and leaving is not much fun either.
Any help or suggestions very welcome.
It's in a Macwester 27 and I have tried all the adjustments on the cables, it's not that.
Capt. RoN
Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?366402-Volvo-MD11c-gearbox-problem#hicVZcsTfSJSWP2A.99

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?366402-Volvo-MD11c-gearbox-problem

 

[garvellachs]

Once I re-engined a MD11D with the same from someone secondhand. When we launched it wouldn't go back into neutral which led to a difficult first docking. I swopped the gearbox for the old one and all was fine. But I realised on bench testing the faulty gearbox that I had fiddled with a screw on the side near to the selector arm that adjusts something. I can't remember the exact details (turn of the millenium) but there's a clue - when I re-set that screw all was fine again.

 

[Graham376]

Well finally got the Old Westerly Splashed and all is going quite well but as usual with old boats I have a few teething problems.
My Gear Selector will not select neutral after going into forward gear making entering and leaving the Dock quite difficult which for a beginner is tough enough anyway.

Also appear to be having a problem with the engine temperature which will go into the red after about 20mins of operation and then fluctuate although I appear to be getting plenty of water through as apparent in the exhaust.

As already said, the problems you have are fairly common with that engine and gearbox. Cone clutches have liners which are difficult to have replaced (a mate at Ferodo did mine many years ago) and when they wear can cause excessive movement on gear selectors.

The fluctuating temperature you have may well be caused by localised boiling. It can be a major job to clear all waterways and a press is needed to remove the cylinder liners but, if that needs doing, before removing check seal kits (O rings) are still available.

P.S. Bearing in mind the work needed and cost of parts, even gasket sets, it may well be more cost effective to sell the engine for parts and replace with new.